Romeo Whisky
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Everything posted by Romeo Whisky
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SBEC - UBEC - Voltage Regulator - what's the difference and are these interchangeable? On a related issue, I've got an old brushed motor powered glider with an equally old brushed ESC (Mtroniks Flysonic70 - 25A) which was designed for NiMh/NiCd battery packs. I want to fly it now on 2S LiPos and although the voltage is comparable to 7 cell NiMh (and offset by the weight saving) I'm not sure if the LVC cut-off voltage will be too low for LiPo and kill the battery (and therefby the model). Help from any knowledgeable leccies would be appreciated.
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Who is still flying 'Classic' electric airframes?
Romeo Whisky replied to stuey's topic in General Electric Flight Chat
Oh yes! Got an ancient EasyStar still flying after 12 years, and a battered old MiniMag. And a couple of GWS Formosas (one of the greatest classics originally designed to fly on AAA cells with a geared brushed motor but now zipping around the sky with 3S LiPo and B/L motors). And a GWS Zero flown only last Friday (now brushless on 2S LiPo). And a Kyosho M36 Spree upgraded from brushed 500. All great flyers and still firm favourites. -
Spektrum DX9 and WOT 4 that decided to do its own thing
Romeo Whisky replied to Nigel Finch's topic in Incident Reports
I have a DX9 and I am assuming the DX9 was the master. If so then my understanding is that it is imperative that your club trainer with the DX9 master must inhibit the Trainer on the DX9 Model Memory used for the training flight when the training session is finished. If not, and he leaves his DX9 set to your model then if he turns his DX9 on while you are flying, his DX9 will potentially have control of your model (and you won't) unless he presses the trainer switch on his DX9 to give you control (just as in the training session). If he hasn't inhibited the wireless trainer facility and switches on the DX9 in the pits when you are flying solo, I believe this could cause your apparent loss of control and he might be completely unaware that his TX has taken control of your model. It is a good idea also for the DX9 owner to set up a specific model memory for the specific wireless-buddied model and then after the training session to both inhibit the Trainer feature and also change to a different model memory before switching off. This is because in wireless buddying the Master is bound to the model and the slave is bound to the Master. For the same reason, for wireless buddying the slave TX should use an unused spare model memory and not the same memory slot he normally flies solo on. To quote the warning panel on Page 20 of the DX9 manual:- CAUTION! Select Inhibit when you aren't using the wireless trainer function. Failure to select Inhibit may result in loss of control of the aircraft. Hope this helps. -
Phoenix Builder does anyone understand it?
Romeo Whisky replied to Romeo Whisky's topic in Simulators
I don't have any problem creating jpeg panoramas - my camera does a beautiful job of them, but I can't find anywhere in Phoenix Builder that enables you to import them and use them. It isn't even clear in the so-called "Help" to say if that's what you're supposed to do to build scenery. As stated above, the only Import Command simply allows you to Import previously created sites!! -
I've recently bought Phoenix Flight Sim (which I love) and upgraded to V.5 which adds in Phoenix Builder to allow you to create your own new models and flying sites. I thought it would be nice to create our own local club site, and expected this to be relatively straightforward. But as someone who earned his living for years writing and selling software to large companies, I am totally mystified by Phoenix Builder which must be the most unintelligible program I've ever come across. I suppose I expected to able to import panoramic jpeg photos of the flying site as the background and then build in the skyline, collision data etc. But I cannot find any options to import anything other than a previously created flying site - Catch22! But the Help system is as unpenetrable as the program itself, telling you what to do but not a word about how to do it. Has anyone out there managed to fathom how to get started with this program so I can at least make a start. If the program is unuseable, I may as well uninstall it.
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Updated the Airware on mine to 1.06 an hour ago and it worked fine. Suggest you ring Horizon tomorrow - they're usually very helpful.
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OK thanks guys. I've downloaded V5 and it seems to work fine. TBH I can't see much difference, but then I've only had a few minutes playing with V4 before upgrading.
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I know there are existing threads re the Phoenix Sim but old threads with lots of postings tend to get ingnored as time goes by, and I really need a quick answer. I've just bought Phoenix Flight Sim V.4 which comes with free upgrade to V.5. However there's so much negative feedback on earlier threads about V.5 in this thread that it's putting me off installing the upgrade. However some time has elapsed since V.5 was first launched and maybe its teething troubles have now been ironed out??? I know Phoenix is popular which is why I bought it, so I'm sure many will have experienced both versions. What do you reckon guys - should I download V.5 or just stick with V.4??
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I've just bought Phoenix Flight Sim V.4 which comes with free upgrade to V.5. However there's so much negative feedback about V.5 in this thread that it's putting me off installing the upgrade. However some time has elapsed since V.5 was first launched and maybe its teething troubles have now been ironed out??? What do you reckon guys - should I download V.5 or just stick with V.4??
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Yes I fitted APC 6x4 to mine and it does improve performance without overtaxing the brushed motors. I used Graupner "grub-screw" aluminium prop adaptors to fit them.
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People tend to go one way or the other (although there are now numerous 2.4Ghz alternatives too - all with their fans, I'm sure), and mainly because of the cost of receivers it is relatively rare for people to jump ship once they've decided on the system they want. So I can only share my own experience, which for the reason stated above only covers Spektrum. I've never owned a Futaba system because I previously used Sanwa transmitters when flying on 35Mhz, so I cannot comment on Futaba although of course they have many loyal aherents.. Personally I went for Spektrum because they were the first with 2.4Ghz (when I bought my DX7, no-one else did 2.4Ghz), and they quickly built up a very large international user-base and with it a huge pool of user experience. Horizon hobbies who distribute Spektrum are also renowned for their superb customer and technical service. So I started with a DX7 and recently upgraded to a DX9. I've used most of the Spektrum receivers too and have never had the slightest hint of a glitch with any Spektrum kit in several years of flying with it. Their receivers are significantly cheaper than Futaba and there are reliable cheaper 3rd party receivers available too. They're often ahead of the game with new features too and the wireless buddy-lead system and spoken warnings of the the DX9 are highly desirable! I've never regretted going for Spektrum and cannot see myself ever wanting to change.
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I've done a forum search but cannot find any explanation of the differences and pros & cons of switch-mode and linear speed controllers. I note that switch-mode are usually more expensive, but does that mean they're better, or just newer? Educate me please someone!
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Just bought two Hobbyking 18A YEP ESCs (also wanted the programming card but they're out of stock!). Product blurb says they are programmable via the TX sticks (as most are) but needless-to-say they arrived with no documentation whatsoever, there is no downloadable data file on their website and their support team has so far failed to deliver the information I need to program them. Does anyone have any experience with these to enable me to reprogram them as the default settings are clearly not right for my needs? Alternatively does anyone know if they are compatible with any other brands? (I've got lots of ESCs so if they are a generic design it might be that the programming is similar to one of my others). Any help would be appreciated.
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Our club pits also has the custom-designed restrainer benches shown above, but I did design my own for the field, held firmly using a tent peg. and another design for bench testing at home
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Still not working at 1930 today. Been unable to check out my order for days now. They've suggested I try again in the new year! And this is the outfit that aspires to be numero uno!
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Anyone else having trouble with the HobbyKing website today? Their website is running extremely slowly and I've tried about six times to order a load of stuff but it just keeps timing-out on the final screen with an error report asking me to checkout again.
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Then I think I'd be looking for either a fault in the receiver or a faulty Switch A. I've got two models with retracts, both on AR600 (6-channel) receivers and both worked instantly on the Gear Channel on Switch A without any programming at all apart from assigning Switch A to the Gear. (DX9). Have you tried assigning Switch A to any other channel and/or operation to see if it works?
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Happy Christmas everyone, and Happy Landings in 2014!
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I've got a DX9 and my first thoughts are these ... Go into the system menus and make sure you have the correct Aircraft Type selected (one servo for ailerons) - (This is not the same as Acro/Heli/Sail - that would be model type). Then go into Channel Assign and make sure the gear is assigned to the channel you want to use. Stuff like this will never be right in the Model sub-screens if it is not set up correctly in the main system settings, but if it's set up correctly there, everything clicks into place properly in the Model sub screens. I've had models that took me a while to sus all this out, so I hope this helps.
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Have a look at these for just £4.99
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Thought some might be interested in my new method of keeping my LiPos charged and ready-to-fly through the winter in my garage. I don't like keeping LiPos indoors and in past winters have put them in storage mode in my unheated garage through the winter. Then recently, I found out about the tubular heaters made for airing cupboards which only consume the power of a 60W light bulb (running cost well under 1p per hour) and decided this would enable me to keep them warm and ready to fly in the garage right through winter. The unit only cost a few quid and plugs into an ordinary power socket. My workbench is covered in ceramic floor tiles (non-conductive and heat-resistant) and the unit just sits on the bench with a steel deed-box (kept unlocked of course in case of a fire) perched above it between two house bricks (the type with three holes - air flow is important). I use chipboard off-cuts to vary the height of the box above the heater depending on ambient temperature. I want to avoid hot-spots so I put a large LiPo-Safe bag in the bottom of the deed box and then layered the LiPos on top in two banks in pairs inside smaller LiPo-Safe bags, with a gap down the middle. The heater sits beneath the gap. To monitor the temperature, I keep a metal fridge thermometer inside. The system keeps the temperature inside the box at roughly 5°C above ambient, (I don't want them to be too warm) and also keeps the garage above freezing too. I've been using it for about a month now and so far am delighted with the setup. I can lift the small LiPo-Safe bags out and put them straight into my Thermos Insulated bag to take to the field so the packs are just the right temperature for flying without having to warm them up first.
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