PatMc
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Everything posted by PatMc
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Hi Prop, your Maggy looks great. I built a Mk1 version around 1990 in a Sopwith post WW1 style& converted it from ic about two years ago having "rested" it for the previous couple of years when I gave up the oily habit. It originally had a very old ST40 but it's also flown with an old version OS40 FS, both using an 11x6 prop . The power now is a Turnigy 3548/900 with 4s 4100 lipos, prop is a 12x6 APC clone. I have 3 batteries so taking them to the field ready charged then recharging between flights/natters means almost no waiting time.Weight has increased from 82oz with the ST40 to 98oz but the overall performance hasn't suffered noticeably & the climb rate has increased - possibly due to the bigger more efficient prop. This is with the ST40 and this is after electrocution.
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Posted by Myron Beaumont on 27/07/2009 19:56:29: I'm very -very tempted to buy the Sparrowhawk kit .Anybody know anything about it? It would be my first glider ever with radio control & it's made in my home town Nottingham! Would it work on the Great Orme or no ? In other words -What sort of wind speed does it require to keep it afloat when the motor is not running . It is acrobatic apparently .Would it be a good starter for an ic man? PS Don't know the " Apollo" I don't know the Sparrowhawk but I think just about anything will fly at the Great Orme when there's a decent wind. I believe it's a favourite site for PSS. Here's the Apollo plan listing.
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Simon, it looks quite good & at a very reasonable price. The size & general layout should be fine for thermal hunting. Depending on what sort of climb performance you want your motor will probably be fine if it can turn a 8" or 9" prop on 3s lipo. Only thing that doesn't appeal to me is the rubber bands wing fixing.
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Posted by Stephen Grigg on 27/07/2009 17:03:20: There is a lever by the needle valve and im not sure which position it should be in and what it is for. I think the lever might have been intended for in flight mixture adjustment. Probably best left locked in one position. If there's an "O" rings on the carb spigot it will probably have hardened & need to be replaced otherwise you will have trouble with inconsistent throttling & unexpected engine cuts. You should be able to get suitable ones from a hardware shop.
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The EG pro standard power only pulls 19amps & the "tuning" power 32amps both on 2s lipos, which equates to around 140w & 240w respectively. What motor do you have & what's the kV ? I have a cheapy motor from Giant Cod in my EG on 2200mAH 3s lipos. Power is around 300w but a 30sec burst gets the model uncomfortably high for visibility. A couple of guys on RCMF seem pretty happy with motors weighing 90g using 900mAH 3s lipos. My model weighs 980g theirs are quite a bit less. Alternative models that spring to mind are the JP Pretty & Greensleeves. I think they both come with brushless motors/esc combos. If you don't mind building from plans the Apollo 3 would probably be a good thermal soarer choice.
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IMO the one you've linked wouldn't be a good first glider choice. It's a bit small for thermal soaring, a T tail can be vulnerable unless you can land smoothly which isn't always the case for slope flying & the supplied motor is a throwaway can jobbie that will need to be replaced if you intend using it as a motor glider. If it's the same maker as the Speedo the fuselage will need some internal reinforcing. When you factor in the postage the price isn't attractive either.Otherwise it's a bargain Would an Easyglider Pro suit your needs ? It has a decent all round (but not startling) performance for sloping, thermaling & mild aerobatics. It can be tow/bungee launched or electrified.
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Need another model
PatMc replied to Andy Freeman's topic in Gliders and Gliding - General Discussion
Andy, I've got a JR RS70 Rx. It's marked : 1- Thro ; 2-Ail ; 3-Elev ; 4 Rud ; 5-Gear ; 6&7- aux/Batt.If you just need a Futaba 68 Xtl to check if it's PPM I've got one you could borrow. Pat. -
Blue bars for visibility. The grass has now returned to all green.
PatMc posted a gallery image in Member Albums
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Box takes a spare lipo or two under the tail. Only the Tx to forget.
PatMc posted a gallery image in Member Albums
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9' span own design. With 600 motor & Master 3:1GB 7 cell sub C nicads
PatMc posted a gallery image in Member Albums
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Elapor, Cyano and a good day ruined
PatMc replied to Brian Parker's topic in Gliders and Gliding - General Discussion
IMO flutter is the most likely cause of both. The tailplane failing/cracking at the same point either side seems to back this up. Andy's incident could have been caused by the ailerons fluttering violently enough to damage the servo gears. ie the surfaces moved but the ailerons tried to hold. Andy, next time you want to lose height fast try spinning the model down. It's much safer & doesn't stress anything - so long as it recovers to normal flight in time. What type of servos are you using now in the ailerons ? I'm using Zebra ZS-F135MGs. -
Even with a 7x5 it would still only produce about 75 watts. Of course that's at the shaft not power input but electric props are more efficient in both shape & useable size so the difference comparisons can't be all that much. BTW Steve, 1.5 diesel seems big for a 32" Tyro one of my first rc models was a 45" Tyro - started as single channel later changed to 2 function with my first Futaba set. It had a Frog 1.49 which was just about enough power until I fitted a silencer. Then it got upgraded to a Fox 15. AUW was about 50 oz.
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LiPo Saver/cut off
PatMc replied to Steve Hargreaves - Moderator's topic in General Electric Flight Chat
Have a look at this from BRC I think it's what you want. There's a similar product here from a US company who also do a more sophisticated version that measures individual cells. -
Elapor, Cyano and a good day ruined
PatMc replied to Brian Parker's topic in Gliders and Gliding - General Discussion
But it's not broken at a glued joint so why suspect the cyano ? -
Posted by Myron Beaumont on 15/07/2009 08:44:26: BB Has anyone ever flown a hang glider off a sharp edged clff face /to top ground interface & landed just behind it on the top . You don't half drop quickly ! but of course that is 'cos of turbulence . You should never do it but some have tried ' Myron I've got no experience of hang gliding but I think what you describe is the same effect as I mentioned but without the fast forward impetus. I've often seen slope soarers launched at what appears to be a good level attitude then instantly stall & come back over the pilots head out of control. The advice given is usually to walk down the slope a few yards if that's possible & launch from there. If that's not possible launching downwards at maybe 30 degrees or so usually gets the model away OK.
