Vecchio Austriaco

I think 3 inch would suit it better - and they are still big enough to handle the average strip. By the way - didn't find any proper wheels around here - ordered them in the US - price very reasonable, delivery in less than a week.... Where did you order the wheels BEB? VA

I am always mainstream as it looks VA

I see we have more builders now - does anybody have an idea about the total number of Dawn Flyers we will see in the summer? all the best for your builds! VA

I am impressed! I would be too clumsy for this scale. You need the hands (and patience) of a lady to be successful! all the best VA

comes up very nice! I like wing building, at the beginning all is a fragile structure and after sheething and covering a stable wing is on the table. VA

Hi Kevin, sides are included in the CNC pack, but if he wants to increase the nose - length he does the right thing! John: the radius for the tail laminations is quite small - I am looking forward how you tackle that. I had (and have) my difficulties with the Cygnet - either the strips break (yes, I have treated them with all kind of tricks, including ammoniac) or the glue doesn't glue properly (used PVA, but as the strips are wet it takes forever to dry) VA

So it is a plan problem after all - and we shouldn't complain about the laser cutter programming.... I am sure you will find a solution, I personnally cut a bit of the first cross member of and the job is done. VA

Now comes the time where we will see if your former F4 has the right shape - if the front part of the fuselage fits nicely to the rear... looking good so far! VA

Looking at your pilot BEB - the guy has a painted scarf - we are looking for a fabric version! This is what Lindsay wrote in his article - a scarf is obligatory VA

Looks good! you will be ready in no time! give the stabilizer and rudder a good shaping to keep the weight in the rear low! VA

@IanR - no - doesn't work - glues like aliphatic, superglue or PVA are penetrating the wood - therefore they glue very well - after a treatment with stain the wood is impregnated and the glue will no longer penetrate into the wood --> the parts will bond only superficial and the bonded area will have much less strength . So no snap rolls possible!!! VA

Kevin: I suppose so - aliphatic stains remain sticky and will not take the paint in the same way as the untreated wood. BEB: Now I start to believe that your Dawnflyer will do snap rolls - you do all this actions only to reinforce the structure All the best with the repair VA

Kevin, about the XT60 - I think you have all on your shopping list - nothing else. In case the new connectors are difficult to connect (and only then) try to remove the burr which may be on the edges of the brass parts with very fine abrasive paper. 800 or finer. While building the fuselage - try to avoid the problem some of us had - the width of the former 4 on the end of the fuselage was to narrow. It may be a problem of the material set only - but it may also be a problem of the plan itself. Check it before you put the fuselage together. VA

Lindsay said the right thing. I covered mine with HMG Sanding Sealer - after that a light use of 400 abrasive paper - job done. Of course, the stain will not work as nice as it would with untreated wood - but it looks the same everywhere. And the sanding filler helps to improve the surface of the balsa - it is less attracted by hangar rush OK- what to do: paint it with an acrylic paint, chose a nice brown of your choice, and nobody will notice - ahem - those reading the forum may well see it .... VA

I suppose there are XT60 on the Turnigy batteries - so why not going for them? They are easy to open and close and quite forgiving during soldering. Don't forget about a charging cable for the batteries if you not already have one. VA

Nice one. I like the FRP arm you made. I was lazy and went for a servo arm I had in the bits box... Well - no problem with that - except that it is bright blue VA

This is exactly the set-up I used originally, it gives you approximately 250 to 280 W. I had to change for 2 reasons. First the plush 40 was broken - so I replaced it by a 45A type and second as I had to order at HK anyway I took a bigger engine as the centre of gravity was too far back. So I am now on a 35/42 1000kv. So I suppose it is the right set-up who have selected. Try to build the rear part as light as possible to reduce the necessary balance weight in the front. leave the 40A speed controller, The weight doesn't disturb for the reason of COG. VA

BEB, coming back to the cockpit sheeting - well I didn't even try to do it in one piece.... I leave these kind of specialities to people like Danny By the way - the guy sits lonely in his cockpit now and has nothing to look at. Any idea about old style instruments which could be printed out and glued into the cockpit? VA

I thought the same when I was building my own one Danny, but in the end it wasn't a problem. Probably because of my lack of precision The gap looks big in this photo - but it is less than 0.5mm - you have really to slightly push the wing int it's seat - and it doesn't fall out if you turn the plane upside down without the bolt. maybe because of the light (used the flash for the picture) VA

Great video, also in a very good quality! I am sure it helps to get more people interested for the RAF! VA

For Epoxy I use Uhu plus 300 for the really important stuff (300kg/cm2 if hardened at higher temperatures), 1h potlife and 12h setting time at 20degC. For less critical areas Zpoxy 30 min. Cyanoacrylate: I use Als-zone thin for balsa and Als-zone foam proof for depron but sometimes I cannot resist using poundlands superglue. The advantage is that the quantity per tube is very small, so you use it all before the top starts blocking - and it doesn't hurt in the pocket if it happens - you just use another one. Aliphatic is not my kind of beer, I think I have said that several times in this forum. I had very bad experience while building the Bonanza, probably I should have changed the brand, but I don't see the big advantage. With the PVA I go for Henkel Ponal express (they say it glues in 5 minutes, give it 10 and it works) and if it should last I use Henkel Ponal waterproof. UHU and Ponal are probably not common in the UK, but I have a very good experience with them in all my model making life, so I import these glues (they last for years, so not a big deal. I import also my coffee - not because Austria is a coffee growing country but I like the way Julius Meinl is roasting it So - what shall I tick - Zap? Pound shop glues? or others? - I go for Other brand. VA - glue and coffee importing department   Edited By Vecchio Austriaco on 23/01/2014 18:22:51

Hi Andrew, why not making your own build blog? I am sure a lot of people would enjoy that. It doesn't matter that Tim has described the build already, maybe you find some areas which you would do different or show pictures from different angles. VA

I allow to answer myself as I suppose BEB still enjoys his well deserved sleep. I sit in Greece this week, so I am 2 hours ahead the wing seats neatly on the wing seating which gives it stability against radial movement. The front of the wing is fixed by the dowel, the single screw holds it down on the wing seating which together gives also axial stability. This is a very stable solution, something I like about this plane - especially when you have a few Seagull models which always use 4 screws in fiddly positions you enjoy closing only one screw for a change VA

I like tigerOC's link - this is a link into a cutting wire paradise! thanks Rob VA

Printing plans from the digital mag would need some proper software which allows the every day A4 printer to print pages which then could be glued together.... scale would be an issue. I think it is worth to by a plan or plan plus laser parts set - there are less possibilities to mess it up VA, common and cheap A4 printer owner