bert baker
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Everything posted by bert baker
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Finally had engine running, I have used these in the past and found out that the newer ones have been updated The old one has a solid green LED when the kill switch is activated The new ones have a red flashing LED when the switch is activated Also worth noting that the failsafe needs to be set up correctly on the transmitter so the engine stops during failsafe
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So here’s what I’ve done
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Found someone in the know and found the wire I was looking for,,, for what ever reason they cut it off flush,,, need to dig some of the potting out and solder a wire back on
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So it goes open circuit to kill and closed to run or do you mean to short it to the crank case Edited By bert baker on 23/06/2020 12:38:04
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I’ve fitted a few of these Mag kill switches to G38’s I have two new switches and the instructions Edited By bert baker on 22/06/2020 19:58:12
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No black wire
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Hi I plan to fit a MR Rc remote kill switch to a Zenoah G62, It is a magneto ignition not the newer electronic system, hence the MR RC magneto kill switch in the Mr Rc manual it says to connect to the Black wire,,,, My magneto doesn’t have a black wire only a red wire I believe the engine to be the German Titan G62 zenoah manuals show a black wire but I defo not got one Any one got any experience Edited By bert baker on 22/06/2020 18:58:41
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Did you get to maiden it,,
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Cheers ED, I have tested with a reciver and 5 cell 2200 pack,just to see if i got smoke,, I did not plug in the Backer at this stage, All looks ok,,,, I think my next thing to do is to check voltage pre and post Backer. I normally would just crack on and not worry, but I think age is becoming to be against me and turning into my Dad I have noticed that the rudder servo has been moved to the back, I will relocate the rudder servo where it should be,,, inside the fuz and reinstae the closed loop
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Probably depends on what buddy box connector it has CSM10 era
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the bigger long one is the main the shorter one on the throttle arm is the low needle
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Posted by Frank Skilbeck on 19/06/2020 17:48:46: My vote would be to use a 4 cell sub C pack, Sub C cells seem to be better at maintaining voltage under load than high capacity AA cells. Hi many thanks but but the Battery Backer needs 5 cell input And many thanks to all comments
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I plan to use a JR 921 receiver Just been reading that the SM Services backer is for 5 cell packs, now wondering if the servos have been ran at 6v, so now not sure if they are still safe to use. Hmm, probably end up replacing them Edited By bert baker on 19/06/2020 16:42:44
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In the manual for the plane Above 5kg servos was recommend. the Futaba S9404 At 4.8 are 5.7kg so they should be ok
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I have purchased plane and it’s got some old Futaba S9404 core less servos It looks to me that they are only rated at 4.8v It’s what I believe to be a mk1 pre built and covered one piece wing Glens Cap 232,, it’s in extraordinarily good condition,, It has been put together with all the carb bends and recommendations, so does also have the SM Services Battery backer,,, I have exercised the servos with my servo tester they seem ok,,,my dilemma is whether to go for 4.8 battery packs or go bigger and fit a inline regulator to the receiver
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Reversing plans
bert baker replied to Dougie Swan 1's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
Plus one for get photo copy,,,, -
As I understand it with no pipe on the nipple oil just gets blown out of th nipple and stays clear,, with a bit of pipe on it eventually the oil builds up in the pipe and a gloopy oily lump just goes back and forward in the pipe and doesn’t breath to atmosphere,, some of the heat will go out with oil
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I had a Laser engine that came my way in a plane it had a small container pipes to the crack case breather to collect the oil I have removed this as I was told never to extend the breather as this may cause the engine to overheat
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My latest Kettle can boil in under 3 mins if you don't watch it