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martin collins 1

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Everything posted by martin collins 1

  1. Thought i would give you an update on this, the lack of down movement was due to the small wheel type servo arm and the rods from that to the bell cranks seriously binding. The servo was fitted in such a way that the only way to get the small wheel off the servo and free up the rods was to cut the plastic ends off the rods at the servo end so the servo could be removed. Having got that far i decided to strip the rods/bellcranks out and fit a pair of servos, one for each aileron. Model was test flown this afternoon and performed as expected from a Puppeteer.
  2. Popped out late afternoon to get a flight in on my Puppeteer, i`ve had to do some mods to this since buying it as the single servo fitted for the ailerons was only giving up not down on both sides, this was due to the small wheel type servo arm and the rods from that to the bell cranks seriously binding. The servo was fitted in such a way that the only way to get the small wheel off the servo and free up the rods was to cut the plastic ends off the rods at the servo end so the servo could be removed. Having got that far i decided to strip the rods/bellcranks out and fit a pair of servos, one for each aileron. The model flew as expected now and by the time i landed the dark and mist made a safe retreat to a warm home a better option than another flight.
  3. This is a VERY nicely built Dennis Bryant DH Chipmunk, 68″ span with flaps and dummy oleo u/c legs, this is available from Sarik as a short kit (needing more wood) for £243 so this is a bargain and it has already been built cutting out a LOT of hours to build it, more pictures on request, comes with the plan and a full size detail CD. https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/dch-1-chipmunk-68-short-kit/ It would make a nice winter project to cover it in the scheme of your choice and finish it off ready to fly in the spring. Pick up from Spalding in Lincs, sorry no posting it. £130
  4. The thing that makes me think it was built like this is that the ESCs are soldered in, he had another couple of models for sale which were just as nice but i.c, it is possible he wasn`t experienced with electric models.
  5. I was told by the builder it was built from a Dragon plan, it has the squared outer wing panels, not eliptical and it doesn't have the wheel trousers/pants which are fitted on the Rapide. What specifically makes you think it is a Rapide bearing in mind the two points i have just made Eric?
  6. Sorting out a Flair Puppetter i bought recently which has a centre servo and bellcranks which give only up and no down, plenty of up movement, would it fly ok like this, i can obviously mix rudder if needed to help. Obvious mod is to take the centre servo out and put new ones in the wings but to save all the work as i have a number of models that require sorting over the winter would it fly ok set up as it is?
  7. I am looking at buying an engine which i am told is a 150, weight is 950g but it has 12 fins, does this look like a 150 ?
  8. Just read that Dave Johnson, the face and multi year Chairman of the LMA passed away last night, condolences to Andy and the family.
  9. I bought a really nicely made plan built scale twin earlier this year and have just got round to checking it over before attempting a first flight with it, all looked good apart from changing the battery connectors over to suit my lipos, this one runs 2x2200 3s in parallel. However upon connecting the packs up and throttling up the motors both started at different throttle settings and the one that started first was running at higher revs all the way through the range. I then twigged that both ESC `s were playing different tunes when the batteries were connected, off with the nacelle covers to discover two different makes of ESC, one was a 30amp the other a 25 😏. The model looks unflown and judging by that it never has, i am guessing the builder was not familiar with electric models, you would have thought it would be obvious you use a pair of the same on both sides...........
  10. Wanted, i am looking for a good Laser 150 or 180 engine, it must be the later type with the upright plug and two rocker cover bolts. It must have good compression and run well, no rubbish please. I have a model waiting for the right engine.
  11. Sorry Chris, too many kits, not enough time, the Stomper kit was sold on, looked like a simple build and a nice looking model, make sure you post some pictures of it once built.
  12. I have used this in several builds, B&Q Vitrex, 19 A1 sized sheets for £28. https://www.diy.com/departments/vitrex-classic-5mm-foam-laminate-solid-wood-underlay-panels-9-76m-/5011204608997_BQ.prd?&&&&ds_rl=1272379&ds_rl=1272409&msclkid=279b8447c19112a3bcdae305d726fd76&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Merkle_Standard Shopping_All_Surfaces_Wall %26 Floor Covering (Bing)&utm_term=4581046492519273&utm_content=4. Décor - Décor 11 - Wall %26 Floor Covering&ds_rl=1272379&gclid=279b8447c19112a3bcdae305d726fd76&gclsrc=3p.ds
  13. Bit parky yesterday when i went flying, after standing around for half an hour messing with a reluctant engine on the test stand my fingers were pretty numb. I had fingerless gloves on but my finger tips were feeling it. I was determined to get a flight in, wind and cold do not stop aviation being committed but i was only in the air for 3 minutes before the lack of feeling in my right hand thumb meant land or risk a crash due to the lack of feeling in the main control digit! Do any of you wear gloves when using your tx, if so can you feel the sticks properly through them? Any recommendations for a particular type of glove?
  14. I am not concerned about the engine bay area, warmed 30 min epoxy should do that, it is an exterior finish i am looking for, preferably matt or satin.
  15. This has probably done to death but the threads i looked at were a number of years old, maybe there is something new to use since Clearcoat is no longer available? I am refurbing an old model and giving it a new coat of acrylic paint, i have some Rustoleum clear lacquer spray here but not sure if that will resist the fuel on the painted covering. I don`t want to get into a two pack type system that requires specialist breathing equipment, i just want to stick on a B&Q type mask to keep something less lethal out of my lungs. Anyone had some success with something that is easy to use and easily available in the UK?
  16. YT International Aichi Val dive bomber, lovely model, flies great. 81″ Span fitted Zenoah 26 petrol mag engine, just add RX and battery to fly. Good condition apart from a crack in the canopy and the cowl which has multiple engine holes cut in it and could do with re making/repair hence it is not currently fitted to the model. Has some weathering done on it, looks the part in the air, has flaps and a bomb which is not fitted in the pictures. MAY SWAP OR PX FOR A WW1 MODEL. £320 Would sell as airframe only for £170 if you wanted to fit your own servos/engine. Pick up from Spalding in Lincs.
  17. Thanks Brian, i live in Spalding, may trot along and have a chat with them............M
  18. One of my long term projects in waiting is a 1/4 Scale Blackburn Monoplane that was built in the late 1960`s, it needs re covering and refurbing, what is on it is all torn and feels almost paper like? Obviously i want to re cover with a fabric like material but the cost of a Oretex or a Solertex type material on a model this size is prohibitive for my budget on this model. In the old days it would be doped nylon, anyone got any experience with that, where is the best place to obtain it, how is it fixed to the airframe before doping etc? Are there any alternatives at reasonable cost? Thanks for any advice from those that have.........M
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