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martin collins 1

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Everything posted by martin collins 1

  1. Ended up going with Ron`s solution, not a curtain wire but a spring from my box of car spares, crushed it slightly in a vice and it is now a snug fit, sorted will try and run it up with the remote glow tomorrow.............
  2. What a lovely day for flying yesterday, hardly a puff of wind for most of the day, unfortunately i had work to do on a couple of my cars during the day but managed a trip over to the flying field early evening. It was a gathering of the Triplanes with my Black Flair version and a pair of Balsa USA examples, unfortunately mine didn`t make it into the air on this occasion, a dodgy intermittent aileron servo meant mine was grounded, i had replaced the fuselage ones after i bought it as one of those was playing up, i should have done the wing ones as well! At least it showed up close to home, not at the Flair Fly In next month...........
  3. The 90` head won`t fit my OS 120, the plug is too far recessed in the head so the part where the wire comes out fouls the head so the spring clip part inside is pulled off the plug. I bought one and it won`t work on this engine.
  4. Thanks for the tip Ron, i will see if the Mrs has any of that hanging around still ..........
  5. I am having problems with getting a good remote glow connection on the plug in my OS 120 4 stroke, the plug is in the head at an angle and the normal 90`connector fouls on the head casting so won`t grip on properly. What it really needs is a fitting that fits on to the plug vertically, does anyone have an easy solution or can recommend a remote plug connector to do the job.
  6. Just seen on a Facebook feed that model guru Brian Taylor has sadly passed away, many on this forum will have built or flown some of his scale designs, i myself have a couple, Condolences to Brian`s family.
  7. Yes Richard, particularly on the Baronette which is what i`m building here, the fin outline is made from 6x12mm balsa, as is the tailplane, i am sure the fin doesn`t need to be that thick, anything saved at this end helps with less weight needed at the front to balance, all the ribs could have material removed with holes. One of my three 1/4 scale ones has had the nose lengthened, the undercarriage shortened and raked forward, it certainly is a lot tamer on landings and unless you saw it next to a more scale version you wouldn`t realise it was different. Mine has a Zenoah 26 mag engine on it which means the longer nose is counter productive as it is a heavy engine and i have had to put lots of lead on the tail but if you went with a lighter motor you could end up saving quite a bit of weight. Everyone stops to watch mine in the air and they are a definite crown pleaser, they give me huge satisfaction to fly in a scale like manner and have so many colourful schemes to choose from.
  8. A combination of the two works well Henry, i use the pins with the shoulder to hold parts that are thin and may split if a pin were pushed through them.
  9. Rudder assembly done tonight, next job will be the bottom wing.
  10. Any acrylic aerosol should be ok, i usually go to B&Q with a picture of the colour i want and they scan it and make up good sized match pots. I then thin this with Tamiya acylic thinners and run it through my old Humbrol Airbrush. Lot cheaper to do it that way than buy an aerosol but if you just want a spray can Tamiya acrylics from a model shop should do it.
  11. Yes, same size, i will be tracing round the main flight surfaces of the balsa one on to the foam as each panel is built.
  12. This evenings progress, tailplane and elevator built, thought i would ease myself in, next will be the fin/rudder assembly. Forgot how much i enjoy building 😁.
  13. Thanks Dave, i think that is a good tip to avoid numerous coats of yellow to swamp the black. 👍
  14. Ok, finally got started on this, spent yesterday re organising my model room so my building board was free, the room is still stuffed with fliers and kits but i have room round the table to build something! I am going to be building a foam board/depron version in tandem with the Flair one which will be 53 Four stroke powered, the foam one will be be 3s electric.
  15. New in the box, only opened to take the pictures, bought by me from Cambria about 4 years ago, too many kits so thinning a few out. Save some money on a new one from Cambria, suit a .25 2 stroke or 3 or 4s lipo if going electric. £80 UK Parcelforce 48 postage £10
  16. The kits are now being sold by SLEC and are full kits rather than the short kits Belair used to sell.
  17. Will watch with interest if you build it Geoff, i have just bought the Belair Rake DR1 kit, once finished i will be looking for something to shoot down ....😅
  18. Model has now been sold to a guy that flies a full size Auster, he will be flying in to my local strip to pick it up! I will take some pictures and post them on the forum...........
  19. Not sure if this is the one you are after Al, some good build shots though.............M https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-warbirds-warplanes-200/8182703-mick-reeves-1-4-spitfire-build-2.html
  20. Hi Roy, sorry no progress on mine as i have been too busy maidening new models and fiddling around with my latest fad which is Fokker DR1`s. Hopefully get the undercarriage sorted in the next month or so and get it airborne again.
  21. As others have said use it or lose it, Wings & Wheels was always my favourite show after the Nats, mainly due to the venue and excellent bring & buy, both of these are now gone for different reasons. I always attend Old Warden and take in at least one LMA show, i would have gone to Weston but it is on the sacred weekend of the year for me, Le Mans 24 hour race, i will be camped in front of the TV on Eurosport from Saturday morning till the race finish on Sunday afternoon. Beers and Frites will be consumed in abundance........
  22. Timely post Brian, both batteries have just finished, i left them on their charge from the 5.4v bottom baseline, the older pack took just under 1900mah and my new pack took 1037mah. I am sure when i do another discharge/recharge from 4.5 i will get the packs up to around their 2300mah capacity problem solved, many thanks to the forum and it`s knowledgeable posters once again.
  23. Doh, i will carry the discharge down to 4.5v then charge again Brian.......... Both packs had another 700mah approx taken out down to 5.4v.
  24. Many thanks for all the advice guys, Brian you have hit the nail on the head with the discharge cut off voltage being the issue (i hope!) When i went to the set up screen for the discharge function it was set at 6v so my battery was only discharging to 6v and stopping, therefore only charging it up to around 1300mah as the rest of the 2300 was already in the pack unseen by me! As soon as i saw your post and checked what the discharge cut off voltage was set at i thought that tallies in with what the load indicator was telling me, it was showing the pack still half full despite having just been discharged. One of the previously `discharged` packs is now on it`s way to 5.4v on a proper discharge so i will report back once that is done and has been charged at 0.5c.
  25. I have tried at 0.4mah, 0.6mah and 1amp and am getting the same results, i have just discharged one pack at 0.7mah and it has taken 1300mah out of a 2300 pack and then cut off. My little gizmo that puts a load on it to give a `guide` as to whether it is full or empty is telling me it is still half full, green till i put a load on then first orange when it gets loaded? With the other questions on this thread relating to this charger i am beginning to think it has issues charging Nimh, i have three of them and they are all giving the same results while my local hobby shop has put these two packs on an Overlander one plus another well known make that escapes me and the two packs i am trying to charge have both come up to capacity on them.........
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