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Tim Cheal

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  1. Tim Cheal

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  2. Tim Cheal
    Or, he can program a GPS well......
  3. Tim Cheal
    Jon Sorry to hear about the loss of the Acrowot. I lost confidence in my DX8 a while ago and sent it to Spectrum for a check, they replaced the RF board free of charge. I have had no problems since. It was when they still had a UK HQ though. You are kinder to Spectrum bashers than me Nigel R! The switch video is brilliant, and although I don't have any 'big' models with high servo loads I shall be using the eTronix switches in the future - they do one without the fuel dot and a recharging plug I note. Tim
  4. Tim Cheal
    Thanks Nigel. I found one a bit quicker delivery but couldn’t see any specific mention of a shunt. I’ll take a risk! Tim
  5. Tim Cheal
    Thanks both. Nigel, will any 5A ammeter do, e.g. like this one from ebay (costs peanuts, but delivery time is lengthy so don't want to get the wrong thing)? Tim
  6. Tim Cheal

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  7. Tim Cheal
    So, I got chance to wire it up and see what happens. I stripped off the original power panel wires and put the 2v battery on the back of the terminals and, as expected, all worked well (the plug glows!). But,I now put the ammeter in series and when I connect the glow plug it no longer glows, and the ammeter goes to full deflection. I am guessing that I have taken a resistor out of the circuitry, but no idea which part of the circuit board this is! Does that sound right? Or could it indicate that the ammeter is toast? Or, should I wire it in a specific way? If I need a resistor in the circuit, any advice on size? Sorry about this, electronics is just not my thing! Tim
  8. Tim Cheal
    Jonathon I am sorry for the loss of the Wot 4, but what a great thread, and great to see the analysis and investigation. I end up with more of a question really, but what happens to the load on your set up when the servos are resisted in movement. Here is what I am thinking...... At full deflection (as per the spin) do (did?) any of the control services get to full deflection, and thus the servo is now pushing against an irresistable force? In this case, what would happen to the current on the servo? I'm thinking that the amperage may go up even higher than your table indicates, potentially causing a brown out. This would potentially happen only when holding full deflections, as you were using in the spin. It may be the case that the amperage does not increase, hence my question which one of the electronic experts may be able to consider. Thanks for a great thread though. (And I cant help thinking that BEB would have loved this thread!) Tim
  9. Tim Cheal
    HI all, thanks for the replies so far, and suggestions. Supertigrefan raises some good questions, so let me expand. I currently use a power panel with 12v battery for my starter and glow driver, but when the battery gets tired I find the glow doesnt always sustain when the starter is being cranked. In these instances I can flick start the engine and normally its fine, so I am only looking at belt, braces and another belt! The 2v cell I have I cant get at right now, but I think it is 4.5A. So, my extra belt was to carry the 2v battery with me, and suitable connectors for my glow driver and just switch it over if I note the 12v battery dropping off. Then I thought I could tidy this all up and incorporate something similar to the glow boxes above into my flight box (which is on wheels). Thus, the desire for some kind of ammeter/led and the possibility of using the ‘pot’ from the power panel. So, the questions continue. Will any ammeter do (as suggested a couple fo quid up to 6A)? Is there a 2v ‘pot’ available rather than th eone off the power panel? If I use a long wire to drop the voltage, how long is very long? Thanks again for all your help. I know I should just wire it up and see what happens, but any help gratefully received. Thanks again. Tim
  10. Tim Cheal
    Thanks all. I’ve an old power panel I could break apart and use the ammeter and the adjuster if you think that would work? Has anyone used an LED in series? Tim
  11. Tim Cheal
    Hi Guys I am not sure if anyone can help me, but its a really simple question I was after some advice with. I presently use a Power Panel to drive my starter and glow plug, I can see if I have good contact with he plug by the ammeter indication. But, I also have a nice 2v battery which I can use. The only thing is I get no indication of whether the circuit is made. So, I have two thoughts for solutions. One, wire the 2v battery through the power panel ammeter - but I couldn't see an easy way to do this. Or, put something in the circuit with the 2 volt battery. Is it as simple as putting 2v led in the circuit, or even a small digital ammeter? I have to confess that I couldn't readily see a 2v led to be honest. Your thoughts gratefully received. Tim
  12. Tim Cheal
    Like many others I never met BEB, but always enjoyed his postings and his clear understanding, plus his articles in RCM and E. I have learnt so much from reading his work. I wonder if anyone has considered letting this family have a copy of this thread as a sort of condolences book? RIP BEB. Tim
  13. Tim Cheal
    If the engine orientation is the issue, what happens when you run the engine with the model upside down? It would tell you whether reversing the engine orientation will solve the issue - at least I would have thought so? Good luck, I had a similar problem with an OS55AX which would deadstick, there is a thread on here, but I am not sure it will help as mine was an overheating issue. Tim
  14. Tim Cheal
    All been a bit delayed, Santa (OK, its really SWMBO) is worried about diesel emissions into the garden, so all on hold and looks like I will just be cold in the garage until I can find an alternative solution! No worries about actually arriving for Christmas Peter, just would be nice to get it working before the coldness of Jan/Feb. I have found the heater and a muffler on Amazon, so that would be my first port of call if I do go the Diesel heater route. Thanks again for all your help. P.S. Just about to get into my V6 Diesel and drive 200 miles, but thats different (apparently)! Tim
  15. Tim Cheal
    Thanks Peter, and Gary I shall be writing my letter to Santa and putting it up the fireplace first thing in the morning. This has been a great thread, thanks again. Tim
  16. Tim Cheal
    Hi Peter My "shed" is a "detached' double garage (no cars of course) and it is freezing in the winter months. I have tried fan heaters etc and like you found them pretty useless (unless you are in the direct hot air path). Thus, I am very grateful that you have posted the information here, and its an ideal time to by one for Santa to deliver. You mention silencers, but I haven't found one on the internet yet, do you have a link to where one might get a silencer for the unit. Best wishes Tim
  17. Tim Cheal
    Awesome, thank you so much Alan. Tim.
  18. Tim Cheal
    Just bumping back to the top as no takers before it disappeared onto Page 3! Tim
  19. Tim Cheal
    Hi All One of our club members sadly passed away recently and left this model, which one of the club members has continued to fly. It looks lovely, but nobody knows if it was an own design or something from a plan. Is anyone able to recognise the model and help us solve the mystery? Tim
  20. Tim Cheal

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  21. Tim Cheal
    Thank you. Recorder set.
  22. Tim Cheal
    Hi again all. I promised an update. I ran the engine on the 12th, and although it seemed to run hot it ran a full tank of gas through, most of that time at full throttle. But, I have had this before and so I ran it again yesterday. Another tank of gas, and mostly at full throttle (about 10300 rpm), and full throttle for the last 5 minutes. It was hot, but I am not sure how hot is hot. To be honest it did seem a little "easier" when running and it idled lovely at 2500 rpm. So, a couple of questions if I may. 1. How hot should it be. After a full throttle run for 5 minutes, would you expect spit to sizzle off, iris that to hit? 2. There appears to be a small drip of fuel from the needle, it's not a lot but the photo below might help. Is that normal, or indication of a leak? Thanks again. Tim
  23. Tim Cheal

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  24. Tim Cheal
    Hi Martin. There is no appreciable play in either end of the conrod, all seems pretty sound to my untrained hands! I have taken my hand file to the crankcase today, (I tried the dremel, but wasn’t brave enough to use it - looks like you would need to be trained dentist to get that to be successful!) and found that I could fold a bit of emery to allow me to work in the indent to smooth it. So, all rebuilt now and I will run it tomorrow to see what happens! I did have one other thought though. When I took the rear bearing out there were quite a few bits (of what I don’t know) in the bearing seating. I am wondering if this has stopped the bearing from seating properly and forcing the conrod against the edge of the indent? Is that posssibel? Tim
  25. Tim Cheal
    Hi All I thought an update would be worthwhile. I rebuilt the engine, cleaning what I could but to be honest no acetone at this stage. I set the engine up on my rig and it ran a full tank through pretty much fine at varying throttle settings (12 X 6 APC prop). I left it overnight and ran it again yesterday. This time, after about 8 minutes, I could hear it start to make what I can only describe as a knocking sound - quite regular and frequent, but definitely a knock and not a buzz! I smelt it getting hot and then it stopped. So, the only thing I can think is that when the engine gets to a certain temperature the parts expand and the conrod starts to hit on the crankcase - does that make sense? If so I might try the Dremel, but to be honest I think it might be best broken down for spares (the new OS55 has arrived and is fitted, run in and awaiting a test flight). I cant really understand why it would work for 200 flights, then start this, but I guess that’s just wear and tear. Thanks again. Tim
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