Steve W-O

Posted by Pete B on 05/05/2012 22:15:51: Posted by Steve W-O on 05/05/2012 21:36:27: To me, it looks as if there is a circlip groove on the other end of the shaft, if My eyes are correct, the shaft has been fitted backwards, the circlip should be the other end where the grub screw end is. At the moment, there is nothing holding the whole lot together, no circlip and no grubscrew. There should also be a groove a little further down the shaft, the end where the wires come out, in case you mount te prop on the other end, and maybe grub screws as well. Sorry Steve, assuming I'm not on your 'Ignore' list and you can read this, I can't agree with you. The shaft is fitted correctly. If Jo looks at where the shaft protrudes from the motor backplate, he should see a C-clip in a groove, flush to the bearing with probably a brass washer beneath it. If the shaft is to be moved forward, to protrude from the front of the motor, the C-clip would be removed and replaced in the groove visible at the right-hand end of the shaft. Another photo of the backplate would help, Jo The only omission is the grub screw, which should be in place to prevent the shaft pulling out of the motor can through the backplate. Finally, Jo, if you have another look and use a depth gauge on the grub screw hole, you will find that the grub screw will penetrate to the shaft and ideally, to the flat on the shaft, to lock everything in place. It should not bear on the outer bearing cone. Either I'm correct or I've made a complete ass of myself............ Pete I don't know why you should be on my ignore list, also I have said almost what you said in reply, except the fitting of the shaft in the current configuration. If the shaft was the other way round, and the end with the clip was behind the place with the missing screw, it would prevent it pulling through, aided by the grub screw. I don't think a circlip groove under the prop adapter does anything, and I have motors without flats on for the grubscrew, that is where my thinking came from.

Posted by Josip Vrandecic -Mes on 05/05/2012 21:35:25: Mr. Chris B. for Your info in the box does not any grub screw....it made me little confused ,but I have one and I put it ,it does nor reach the shaft but only outer bearing cone... Thanks a lot to everyone at the weekend time ...all the best Cheers Jo Edited By Josip Vrandecic -Mes on 05/05/2012 21:37:07 Even more strange, why a bearing between to things that have to be fixed together? It's not April 1 is it?

Posted by Tom Sharp 2 on 05/05/2012 22:02:58: This lads vids have been around for while now. The vids of him flying helicopters are even better. He has a website, the address is as below. http://www.justinjee.com At that age I could hardly stand up straight, never mind fly model aircraft. Yes, I have mentioned him here a long time ago, just that he came up in conversation last week. You notice there is a gap in the ages of postings, I think because he had an unfortunate accident, lost control (maybe not him, the story seems to be a radio glitch, though his father never said so) I can't do three consecutive rolls reliably without being ten miles high, he is very talented, and has abiloities beyond his years of experience

Posted by Bernie Miller 2 on 05/05/2012 21:50:24: yes its the same but mine is made for electric not ic. OK, will have a look. Mine came with mountings for electric and IC. Have you looked at all the forums and reports on them? There are tons of suggestions and ideas for strengthening to avoid problems. All the mods are simple, but could save a lot of time later. I bought it, then realised I wasn't interested in the kind of speed it is capable of, so it will soon become part of my balsa loft insulation Search for Bobcat 25 or Super Falcon 25, you will probably find motor suggestions from people who have actually flown them.

To me, it looks as if there is a circlip groove on the other end of the shaft, if My eyes are correct, the shaft has been fitted backwards, the circlip should be the other end where the grub screw end is. At the moment, there is nothing holding the whole lot together, no circlip and no grubscrew. There should also be a groove a little further down the shaft, the end where the wires come out, in case you mount te prop on the other end, and maybe grub screws as well.

Posted by Bernie Miller 2 on 05/05/2012 21:03:18: its wingspan us 311/2 in length 37 in wingarea 250sq in and its full name is richmodel lingcat 380. Edited By Bernie Miller 2 on 05/05/2012 21:06:30 OK, it sounds the same as mine. They came under different names, does it look like this? It was made for a 25 glow, the limiting factor is the prop size, as it has to fit between the booms. If it is like this, i will have a look on my modelling laptop and see what I decided on, but I never built it, it's still in the box

No, steel bolts are out, they might damage the nut part, then you would have a bigger problem

Is there a circlip on the piece of shaft we just can't see? I would agree from the info so far that there should be a grub screw in it, as from what can be seen, there is nothing stopping the thrust pulling the motor apart.

It takes a grub screw, probably in case you want to reverse the motor mounting, can't see the whole motor for th position

Posted by Redstorm on 05/05/2012 19:01:42: Does anyone know where I might find the M5x60 nylon bolts and the plastic wing retainer clip that holds the wings on the Mentor? Ideally would like to find a supplier open on Sundays between Manchester and Leeds or thereabouts Failing that, can anyone suggest a cheap supplier online? Thanks The wing retainer doesn't take any forces apart from stopping the wings sliding off the carbon spar, I made some out of ply and dowell. Modelfixings should have the bolts, though when I assembled mine, I tapped the holes out to 6mm before I fitted the plastic "nut things" into the fuselage. Were they missing? I had parts missing from my funcub

What size is it?

When I looked about 10 minutes ago, wheelspin was out of stock! It seems most people are out of stock, so even if they say they have, it would be better to phone and confirm

If you remove the circlip, you should be able to pull the two halves of the motor apart, the shaft is not tight in the bearings. Be careful, the two halves are pulled together by the magnets, and if they pop back together with your finge in the way, it can pinch it enought to bruise or cause a blood blister. Then you can take (sometimes easy, sometimes not) the shaft out of the other end after removing the grub screws. The push the end of the shaft into the rotor end of the motor (from the inside, it is a shorter distance to push it) until you can just get the circlip on. Some of them have a groove half way along the shaft for a circlip at the front, some don't. I have used motors with no clip, or usually put a wheel collet on it. The thrust of the motor is not taken there anyway, it is just holding the motor together. Put some thread sealer on the grub screws after you have checked it is all OK

Yes, it is, some move easily, and some are tight. I have one that is very tight, and will be going out to the garage to press it out in the vice later. The Turnigy I out in the Cessna, I held in my hand and tapped the shaft out with a plasic hammer (or screwdrive handle) What colour is your motor?

Posted by Barney Townsend on 04/05/2012 17:59:06: Thanks for the advice Steve, The ArduPilot looks interesting- it's great what people are doing with arduino nowadays! It would probably be a good solution for accurate flying, and at a couple of hundred dollars (or so the first sites I've just dug in seem to say) may well be within budget - although of course that's after paying for the aircraft and training as well! As far as GPS, we normally carry AMOD loggers (http://www.pocketgpsworld.com/amodphotologger.php) which can be set to a 1 second breacrumb. Very small and light too. Regarding the rules... of course we would check thoroughly and would certainly not do anything that directly contravenes them. "The spirit of" however is a very grey area! One might argue that those pilots who are innovative enough to explore every possible avenue of information deserve to reap the rewards! Regards Barney I agree with the last part. The Eagltree logger GPS is 10 per second, and I have an idea the one for the Ardupilot is as well. The height measurement on the Ardupilot is within 10cm (not an altimeter, it is zeroed at take off point) The local price I think is about £180 (£177), and will probably be my next project in summer. The programming uses google maps, I downloaded it last week to look at. I had ideas of fitting it to a fairly small plane, which has a duration of about 30 minutes with two batteries. The cost of a plane like that, with everything woud be around £275 (not worked out, just a quick add up in my head) Training to fly something like that I would guess at 4-6 sessions of a few hours each, but some people can get it after half an hour, and I know a couple still trying after two years. Very general information, but not doubt it will become more specific as you narrow down the needs

Posted by Big Bandit on 04/05/2012 16:44:06: Posted by Steve W-O on 01/05/2012 19:59:52: Sounds like you are not that far away, we are on the other side of Coventry, Hi Steve, It's just 25 miles from where I live to Coventry up the M69, the Punto's gone now so at least it's off my drive. I ended up getting £155 scrap value which is rubbish as I've already said it would have made a good little first motor for someone just for the sake of one component. The upside is the missus is well chuffed with her new motor so she's said why don't I swap my Audi for a newer one, may be later in the year if I can get a low mileage A4 Estate. Cheers, Chris. That's more than webuyanycar.com would have given you! 18 months ago when I sold my MGF, they offered me £20 for it, and would deduct a £50 admin fee!!! It is a pity, as you say it would have made someone a good car, I couldn't of got it collected by then, my usual recovery chap is away for a while. Glad your wife is peased with the new one, to achieve that is a major coup

I don't know haw far you are prepared to go or your budget, but there is a device called an ardupilot, which is a complete autopilot system for a model aeroplane, and not expensive. From a PC you can enter waypoints and let it fly the course. There are regulations involved, in the UK at least, and it does need a competent pilot (although in can be prgrammed for take off and landing) There is also the EagleTree system that has GPS air speed and altitude, which is logged for later download to a PC, but the plane needs flying. Flying at the same throttle at constant heights would be a challenge for the accuracy you seem to need. FPV with onscreen display could be a way as well. The plane would need to carry enough batteries or fuel for the duration you would need. Another thjought, knowing nothing about your rules etc., but I would have thought that using a model to do what ir prohibited might also run foul of the rules, or at least the spirit of the rules

Is your TX standard, or updated firmware? 30 deg is still a lot, but as you have had RC experience, with the expo, should be manageable. I think the biggest problem comes from overcorrection, which is often the problem with new pilots more than the actual throw. If your TX is updated, it is easy to make one switch change all the rates, so it makes it possible to just flick one switch to change, useful at times like this.

How hard can it be?   And at 9 he can fly better than will ever be able to, and better than most others I have seen.     Look for his other videos, truly talented.   I had to edit the second one to a custom size as it looked like the smallest size given was going to mess up the forum. Open it in youtube and watch the high res version Edited By Steve W-O on 04/05/2012 13:39:07

What is so special about that one, I have seen them go for less than 1/6 the price?