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flight1

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  1. flight1

    flight1 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  2. flight1

    flight1 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  3. flight1

    flight1 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    flight1 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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    flight1 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  6. flight1
    Have a look a the Tony Nijihuis sky done by Slec **LINK**
  7. flight1
    The weather probability will be good because I can't make it, due to family commitments. The weather forecast is looking very good for Saturday with light winds. typical Have a good day
  8. flight1
    Posted by cymaz on 17/09/2014 19:46:41: Posted by flight1 on 17/09/2014 19:00:36: Posted by Andy Green on 17/09/2014 17:36:59: An old F3A trick was to use sub trim to limit full throttle to pass the test (so you are observed with the throttle wide open) then move the sub trim back. Andy And I thought i was bad by running it a bit rich to keep the rpm down during test was checky! P.S. i have spotted many over the years (running in you Know?) I'm going to tell on you As I say spotted maney over the years. You have the right of silence... bla bla bla..
  9. flight1
    Posted by Andy Green on 17/09/2014 17:36:59: An old F3A trick was to use sub trim to limit full throttle to pass the test (so you are observed with the throttle wide open) then move the sub trim back. Andy And I thought i was bad by running it a bit rich to keep the rpm down during test was checky! P.S. i have spotted many over the years (running in you Know?)
  10. flight1
    I like the G sonic props I find them more efficient. I can go up a inch in dia for the same rpm. I have a saito 91 on a 13/10 gsonic and thats gives 79 db and i even had one chap ask if it was electric when i was flying. For quitening down lasers (or any 4 stoke) a short piece of slicone on the end of the exhaust helps with out affecting power. I have also found that frame noise can have a big impact, make shore the engine is not touching anything when running
  11. flight1
    You could always looka the Chec company Valach motors they do some nice engines and a close alternative 60 **LINK**
  12. flight1
    I belive the first two numbers refer to the stator dimensions and the last (in this case 6) is the magnetic poles so... this basicly means that the the higher magnet poles = higher rpm/volts with corresponding lower torgue per amp so bigger the stator dimensions means bigger motor ...roughly means higher load capability ( ie cc ) or we could get complicted about this
  13. flight1
    Well if you by one you have lost all the fun in building one, all things considered if you ad up the materials and labour you would find it good value I have also toyed with the idea of using carbon tube and Jb weld to sick it all together which is within my skill level, but if you have a curve the carbon rod will be in tension and wwill be trying to straighten out putting this load on the joint-- as for steel you just bend it mind you... you could lay up your own carbon rod to the shape required Edited By flight1 on 07/09/2014 21:55:12
  14. flight1
    Well I have mine set up like special fuctions sp2      SA- vario sp3      SA (down arrow)      play value          Alt               7 seconds in telem screen got default    t -10 - 0.4 0.4 10 source set to VSpd ticked box Altitude this will display the altitude on the front screen top bar.   I use the SA 3 position toggle switch so i can have it all off or switch beteen vario sounding or the altitude being anounced every 7 seconds. hope it helps Edited By flight1 on 07/09/2014 21:14:47 Edited By flight1 on 07/09/2014 21:15:11
  15. flight1
    For welding steel you should see **LINK** for proper inspiration , i would love to be able to build that way-some day maybe
  16. flight1
    Hi you will be most welcome to have a look and see at st austell see here for info and times (subject to the weather of course) see here **LINK**
  17. flight1
    any good silicone will do. I wrap a bit of tape around the servo before I stick them in , so when i take them out i can peal the tape off and have a nice clean servo. I use a low modulus ( ie low stretch stiffer)/neutral cure silicone personally. Ie:. low modulus = low stretch/stiffer and neutral cure which has low acetic acid during curing so won't cloud polycarbonate plastic.
  18. flight1
    You can extend the cables in the back boxes no problem and use the push fit fittings (see previous post link) which are safe and regarded as a permanent joint, all other joints (not permanent)need to be accessible as per the regs. It is not a tidy or ideal/best pratice way but it can save a lot of money and still get something safe. If you can pull a little bit of slack through that would be ideal.
  19. flight1
    Don't use polyestaer on abs as previous post says. In the past with ABS type plastic I have layed up inside the cowl fibre glass cloth and epoxy laminating resin, this make it stronger and prevents it from craking up as the plastic gets older and more brittle.
  20. flight1
    It's al ...........
  21. flight1

    flight1 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  22. flight1
    The racer cat looks right but it's only fast if you make it. flys nicely, slowly and at a good pace , in my opinion if you want fast get a plane thats is for that purpose, HK blurb say looks like it 100 mph on the ground it does't mean it flys around at 100. The reason I gave it a go is that there are loads of wot 4 in the club and I wanted non conformity. as for build quality no different to any other artf and I have seen some of the planes hk sell under alternive names mainy in the US, I am sure there are only so many mas rc kit builders in the far east. The sweety shop beckons
  23. flight1
    Some thing different ? I have just got a racer cat 60 from HK flys very well, no bad habits and flys in very slowly if needed. Very impressed for the money despite putting a bigger tank in than supplied and replacing the elev and rud push rods as the ones supplied are to stiff. available at the uk ware house and in my opinion it flys better than a wott 4.... hold on.. wait for it
  24. flight1
    I had something happen on a plane recently that might give an answer to you happening ...short after take off my plane behaved badly then the radio screamed lost link... but before it hit the preverbal the radio rebound and I got control for a short bit, this happened about three times the last time found the rudder was stuck on full left and I managed to land without damage ( complete miracle ). What had happened is that the rudder servo had failed and in the process had taken so many amps the rx locked out due to low voltage , cutting power to the servo which allowed the battery to pick up.. rx then rebound... and this cycle happened untill the servo had completely failed and stopped drawing current. A version of this may have happened to you as in the throttle servo failed ( hence noThrottle) but it was in a stalled short stated that drawing too much amps for your battery to cope with which probably led to you 'brown out' Just a theory
  25. flight1
    If you hurry HK got some in the uk ware house - 2 left as I speak be quick at this price **LINK** And for a bit more money in stock too  http://www.4-max.co.uk/crimping-pliers.htm     Edited By flight1 on 23/07/2014 17:26:03
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