IanR

Thanks, again, Andy. I will update to 2.3 per your advice. Ian

Thanks for clearing that up for me, Andy. When I start Open TX 2.2.3 I am asked if I want to update to 2.2.4 and I say no - I don't want to introduce any further possible complications. I should state that I am about to celebrate (?) my 70th birthday and am beginning to realise that this will come with not just "senior moments" but senior-rest-of-my-life. These days I have the attention span of a gnat - a sleepy gnat. My only reason for upgrading to 2.2 was to be able to use lua on my transmitter in order to make changes to S6R receivers at the field, rather than waiting to get home and do it via the computer - otherwise I would have left well enough alone. So, (1) is it worth updating to 2.3 for someone like me (who is not interested in telemetry) and (2) would I also need to update my X9D Plus? Many thanks Ian

Can anyone explain why, on Open TX 2.2, the switches shown on the simulator are in alphabetical order, and not in the order in which they appear on the transmitter (as was the case with previous versions) I am finding it very difficult to get my head round the new layout. Is there a way to change the look of the simulator back to how it was previously? Thanks Ian

Keith Dynamic 4S 3200mAh lipo - 25x42x128mm. I have just measured it. Fitting it to my Riot Mk1, the battery bay lid closes properly without any pressure from the battery and without any deflection at all - just. A very slightly puffed Overlander Supersport 3S 30C 2200mAh lipo is virtually the same thickness. My 4S Dynamic is unused and completely flat with no puffiness at all. If it were to puff up, even slightly, I would imagine that the battery tray lid would be under tension. I have only ever flown my Riot with the 3S Overlander and only with a 4" wing band around the fuselage nose against the battery lid. The lid closing mechanism is so flimsy that I would not consider flying without the elastic band. Whilst writing I would add that at the beginning of every season I run a few drops of WD40 into the pushrod tubes. Otherwise the pushrods are so stiff that the rudder and elevator will not zero when releasing the sticks. I also changed the crappy axles for stainless steel screws and poured adhesive (can't remember which one) into the plastic rudder socket to prevent the rudder from coming adrift. I would agree that the Riot's performance is a little lacklustre but rather than attempt to make performance enhancements I would rather buy an additional (different) model. IanR

In connection with prop sizes and 3S/4S batteries, the following is something I copied some years ago. I think it is from this forum but I may have copied it from elsewhere. I believe that the Mark referred to is Mark Tilbury, the designer, and, of course, this refers to the Mk1 Riot :- I got another e-mail from Mark this morning with some more interesting information; I'm sure he won't mind me re-publishing it here: "just a little tip on the Riot, the model has been designed to be played with, out of the box it is set to be almost a trainer but with increasing the throws it becomes a very advanced trainer / sports hack, then if you wish you can remove the cowl ( two screw ) and you will find a steel weight which can be removed. when this is removed the CG will go back around 10-15mm which will then suit the more aggressive style. 　 now for more fun and power you can mess with the power set up, we have fitted a 40 amp ESC so that you can if you wish use a 4 cell pack. if you do this you need to drop the propeller to a 10 x 5/6 and then even more power will be at your finger tips. 　 we do a 4 cell 2500 mah thin pack for £39.99, this fits the riot very well. part number ART-3F029. as you know this model s designed to compete in a market where people have lots of different abilities which is very hard to cater for but I do feel we have covered more in one model than any other currently available. the model even fly's very well in high winds! 　 have fun with your model, that's the main thing I tried to design into it " an every day sports hack that puts a smile on your face every time you fly it." A very experienced (and self-confessed hooligan) flier at my club has removed the metal weights, dropped the prop size as suggested above and fitted a Dynamic 4S 3200mAh lipo (from Slough Radio Control Models) without any modifications to the battery box, and flies his Riot Mk1 as though he stole it. IanR

Alan, on mine the spar web is not balsa but thin ply. Ian

What a waste of my time that was, including the opening "credits" which lasted over a minute. Self indulgent, or what? I rest my case. No apology this time, Ian

I mean no disrespect to anyone and especially not to Cliff - each to his own etc - and I feel certain I am in a small minority, but I have to say I find these types of videos utterly and completely boring. Whilst the person doing the filming, and others, may get enjoyment whilst watching playback from the videos, it does nothing for me. Looking at fields from above? No thank you. The brief part showing the model in the air from the perspective of the flier - great. But the rest, forget it. With apologies, Ian.

Would it be possible to cut the throttle by flicking a switch 3 times making it go through zero 3 times within, say, 1 second, or so - similar to the way in which the self-test is initiated with the S6R and S8R? This would not be too onerous when cutting the throttle on purpose but would be unlikely to happen accidentally whilst flying or any other time. I take the point about accidentally knocking the switch whilst flying. I am using switch SF as the sticky throttle cut switch but have reversed it so that when towards me the throttle is off and when away from me it is on. This maintains a larger gap between it and the adjacent SE switch so that my fat fingers are less likely to inadvertently cut the throttle. Also, when putting the TX down on its back, the switch is already in the "towards me" position and the throttle is off. If it was the other way round, then putting the TX down on its back might inadvertently flick the switch and enable the throttle. However, I still think the 3-way flick would be the ultimate safe way of not accidentally cutting the throttle. Anybody know how to do this?

The April issue is still using the same rubbish viewer. I think its time to complain - I pay for a Print + Digital subscription and I'm sorry to say that the digital version is not fit for purpose. Now I see that, when zooming in, some of the print characters overlap and some characters are missing. Along with problems trying to navigate around. It really is a rubbish system. Beth, don't let the tail wag the dog. Tell your IT guy to reinstate the old viewer.

Hello Chris and Mike Yes, it was a servo thing. The Max Thrust servos in the Riot twitch upon power up but move nowhere near as much as the Airtek Kpower servos did. I have fitted the S6R into the Riot temporarily and everything is functioning as I would expect. Thank You to everyone who answered my queries. Without your help I would still be pulling my hair out. I really am very grateful. Ian

Thanks Chris and Mike. I'll put the Rx into my Riot tomorrow and see if the Max Thrust servos behave themselves (I'm using Airtek Kpower servos on the bench) Ian

Nope - just done yet another 2 Self Checks and I still get more than 90 degs movement on powering up. When I move the Rx on the bench, in Auto Level mode, the most movement I get does seem to correspond with the maximum throws from the Self Check. Its just powering up where I get a problem. Ian

Still on the bench. I am replacing an X6R in my Riot with this S6R. I have set the S6R %age throws on the Mixer screen the same as they were with the X6R. This gives approximately 30 degs of movement either side of centre. When I power up on the bench, the servos begin to move erratically for 2 or 3 seconds whilst the led on the Rx is red and yellow, then the led turns green and the servos snap back to their centre position. During this erratic movement the servos sometimes move to well over 90 degs. This happens with the stabiliser turned on or off. I would assume it is a Rx thing since it happens in the 2 to 3 seconds that it takes for the Tx to take control when the led turns green. I am concerned that this initial dance may drive the servos in the Riot beyond the limits of movement in the control surfaces and damage either the servos or the control surfaces or the linkages. Is there any way of reducing or removing this movement upon powering up? Ian (sorry to keep banging on about this pesky S6R)

I haven't "back-tracked" to find what was wrong, yet, but just a few thoughts... I don't think it was a Rx number problem since everything worked normally when I disabled the stabilisation function. I don't think it was my messing with the Special functions since the Channel Monitor showed normal movements. I don't think it was a with/without luac problem. I don't think it was a Self Check problem. Since the problem only arose with the ailerons, elevator and rudder - the throttle worked normally - I think it was sloppy technique with the initial calibration process via the Tx. I believe I may have been fooled by the transmitter telling me to press enter in order to go on to the next calibration position without checking to see if the yellow led on the Rx had stopped flashing and turned green. Additionally, since I had to keep both the Tx and the Rx relatively close to each other on the bench, the "telemetry lost" warning kept coming and going. This morning I paid particular attention during calibration and everything appears to be working OK. I'll revert to my initial Rx number and put my Special Functions back and see what happens. Ian