IanR
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Stevo, many thanks for the heads up. I bid for the thing but was outbid - it sold for £41 incl postage. I'm going to try something else. The plastic parts of Hangar 9's Angle Pro incidence meter are available as spares, and Hangar 9 sell a 36" long bar for the Angle Pro, also as a spare. I have ordered these for only £17. I have an ipad and have downloaded a digital level gauge app which repeats very accurately. I am hoping that, by setting up the Angle Pro parts on the wing and stab, I can then use the ipad to get readings by resting the ipad on top of the bar. It would no doubt be better to use an iphone - much smaller and lighter - but I haven't got one. I'll let you know how I eventually get on. Ian.
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No, Stevo, I'm oop t'north. I'm glad to see you say that it will fly differently with the incidence sorted. Now, can I be bothered to faff about producing a homemade incidence meter or do I bite the bullet and fork out 50/60 quid, or more, and buy one? Ian
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Stevo, thanks for the reply. Do I understand correctly that you removed foam from the top-front of the stab slot in the fuselage and the bottom-rear in order to get the stab to be higher at the front and lower at the rear? I also need about 6mm of down elevator but the thing still doesn't feel right - certainly nothing like the others I've seen being thrown around the sky in gay abandon. It seems that there is a definite manufacturing fault here but I don't suppose Ripmax will own up to anything - its been months since I sent them an email asking them to comment on my difficulties but no reply, of course. So, in addition to the price of the Acrowot, I should have factored in the additional cost of an incidence gauge and as for "ready to fly in 30 mins" - ha! Ian Edited By IanR on 08/06/2015 18:56:56
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Stevo, could you describe how you modified the tail end to correct the incidence angle? Thanks. Ian
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Just following on from Robert's suggestion, I believe its possible to buy a cheap jig which will ensure that the kitchen cabinet hinges are mounted correctly. Ian
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Gary, when the door is closed the hinges will be closed together, also, so that, as Ken says, all you will see is the pin part of the hinge. ( Note! The hinge fits "inside" the gap between the door and the frame not on their outside faces ) In t'olden days it was usual to chisel out a pocket in both the door and the frame that the hinge would sit in on both sides. I have found it easier to chisel out a deeper pocket in the door, only, screw the hinge to the door and then screw the other side of the hinge, with the door attached, to the frame. The top hinge would normally be fitted with its top edge 7" from the top of the door and the bottom hinge with its bottom edge 9" from the bottom of the door. If fitted, a third hinge would be fixed mid-way between the other two. When screwing the door/hinge to the frame, balance the door on a couple of old magazines (not RCM&E - I have found Cosmopolitan works fine) using just the right amount of pages to get the height right. Ian Edited By IanR on 28/05/2015 14:34:26 Edited By IanR on 28/05/2015 14:37:58
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Your clip was doing fine until the music (?) started - it stopped me in my tracks and I switched off immediately. Shame, I would have liked to listen to the sound of your ChangeSun. Ian
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So Mike flew it in very strong wind conditions. Excellent! Its becoming more and more appealing. Ian
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I was looking through a thread the other day when I came across Mike Bell's avatar. I liked the look of it and pm'd Mike for details. He then kindly added a couple more photos to his album and pm'd me back to give me the following details... "...it's an own design. It is 58 inch span powered by an OS .46 and weighs 5.5lb. The wing section is semi symmetrical (about 14% thick, I think) which gives it a nice slow landing speed and very benign stall. It does all the normal aerobatics, although snaps are a bit lazy. I think it has a retro, control line stunter sort of look. The only bit of the styling I wasn't too happy with is around the canopy, which I moulded myself and in hindsight I might have done better to adapt a commercial item..." If Mike sees this post I wonder if he wouldn't mind posting his photos on the thread so that everyone can see what I'm raving about. I would love to have a go at building one myself and I think it would make a brilliant plan for the magazine - what does everyone else think? Ian
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Its in Ripmax's "What's new for 2015" brochure **LINK** but no mention of a date. Ian
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Thinking about 4th/5th July, will there be a facility for disabled drivers? I am "walking wounded" not wheelchair bound but would not want to walk too far to the spectating area if parking is on a first-come first-served basis. Ian
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To get you in the mood for the NEW season!
IanR replied to Dom (Essential RC)'s topic in The Video Channel
Yes to no backing track - engine noise, only, please. -
Stephen, I've never done it myself so I'm not certain, but could it be something to do with "Lofting". I've just looked it up on the TurboCad 21 Help Website and it appears that lofting is only available with TurboCad Pro or TurboCad Platinum. Perhaps I'm wrong and someone will come up with a more helpful solution. Ian
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Stephen, I use TurboCad 9 Pro, exclusively, but also have TurboCad 21 Pro on my computer. In 21, the Copy Command Toolbar is not visible by default but you can open it from Menu/View/Toolbars. As regards working in 3D I would say that, in my opinion, the most important thing is to display the workplane - a red box - at all times, otherwise things can get awfully confusing very quickly. Then, occasionally switch to a side view so that you are looking at the Workplane end on. Then, having confirmed where you are about to place the object you are about to draw, return to your main view and continue drawing. (Am I trying to teach my grannie to suck eggs?) Ian
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Thank you, Percy. Ian
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Stephen, as they say, "its easy when you know how". I'm sure you've helped the TotalCaders no end. As a matter of interest to you, I use the Mirror Copy command in TurboCad. I've never done it your way - we live and learn. Ian
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To:- Percy V. As suggested, a new thread to ask the question - if not wishing to use epoxy resin on a foam wing joining bandage, is it better to opt for pva or aliphatic resin, for instance, Deluxe Materials Aliphatic Resin, on the bandage? Many thanks. Ian
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Erfolg, I don't know TotalCad but should you define the item to be mirrored, first, and then snap a handle on a convenient intersection second? Ian
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Erfolg, could you change the colour of the new vector line you're drawing to red, instead of changing the imported drawing? Then, when you've finished tracing, select the completed tracing and edit all the lines to black in one go. Ian
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Tony, looks to me like you're getting on very nicely. I think one of the biggest hurdles for a beginner is getting past the drawing lines, boxes and circles stage and you are obviously well beyond that. You're actually producing something. Ian
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Stephen, I'm not sure about all the nuances involved with 2D and 3D but would suggest the following, at least - - If you're drawing in 2D, only, then make sure your Selector is in 2D mode. If you highlight the Selector Button and bring up the Local Menu you will see there is a 2D/3D Toggle button. - When drawing anything, lines, circles, arcs etc, go to the Format/Properties/3D menu selection, first, and make sure that thickness is set to 0 mm. - If you still get parts that are on a different Z axis, highlight the parts (or the whole drawing, if you wish) and then go to the Format menu and click on Place On Workplane. I think its a Workplane thing. Workplanes come in when you are drawing in 3D and then copying and moving elements of your drawing can seem to do all kinds of unpredictable things if you're not being very careful about which Workplane you're on and which View you're using. There is a Workplane Toolbar. It might be a good idea to make sure this is on your Desktop and then click on Plane By Active View - the active view being directly from above. For "normal" use I always stick to the Model Tab. The Paper Tab only seems to come into its own if you want to print out different views, of the same drawing, on a single sheet of paper. Ian
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Erfolg, I don't have an "avatar" but if you look under my name on my posts and click on "1 photos" I believe you should get to the picture I'm on about. As mentioned previously, I'm using Turbocad 9 from way back - maybe 15 years or so - and I believe more recent versions may import slightly less blocky pictures. Though I could be wrong. Ian
