TheFlyingCrust
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Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
TheFlyingCrust replied to Paul Marsh's topic in All Things Model Flying
That was quick Cymaz. Do you have a connection with the Philippines? Sorry, no prize Ian -
Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
TheFlyingCrust replied to Paul Marsh's topic in All Things Model Flying
Just completed this one today. The Sun and star are Solarfilm, the rest is car acrylics from Halfords. It was a Christmas present from her ladyship. No I don't build that quick she bought it for me in 2011. Started the build in August. It has a 4 servo wing and has come out 2 oz over recommended Phase 6 weight. I'm dead chuffed. Guess the flag. Ian -
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Re. the fillets. Have you ever tried lightweight filler? When you pick the tub up it feels very light. And unlike BEB's just lick your finger and draw it across the filler for a finish. Its ready mixed and sandable. Worth a try. Ian
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I've just been having a proper look at the Steinberger tuners and, good as they seem to be, they won't fit. Damn. Here's the problem. There isn't much room for a second set of tuners. May have to go to an arrowhead shape with one row either side. Move to plan B, whatever that ends up being. Any ideas? Ian Edited By TheFlyingCrust on 30/12/2013 17:11:07 Edited By TheFlyingCrust on 30/12/2013 17:13:15
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Hi Daz, I thought that until I had a closer look at the advert. It says $99 each but on closer inspection they're only sold as a set of 6. So I'm assuming $99 for 1 set. I'm very keen to keep the headstock outline if its on so its 1 set of Steinbergers and 1 set of Gotoh's (or similar) which'll come to about £140. I need to do an accurate scale drawing to see how it all fits. If its a no-go I'll have to opt for another headstock shape. As for the finger board, the one on the blue guitar I made myself out of a piece of English ash. Its got a lovely grain. And works fine, just needs a bit of care when making the slots. The Tele is a 1 piece neck so this time I don't have that luxury. Check and double check. I love a challenge. Ian
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Have any of you any experience of these machine heads? They're neat and compact, if a little pricey. I should be able to get 12 on a Tele headstock without compromising its shape too much. Ian
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Now i have your attention. The musicians amongst you may well twig this isn't your standard build blog on this site. I hope the mods don't object. I'm sure they'll give me fair warning. As the title suggests I'm about to start the build of a Telecaster 12. That's to say A Fender Telecaster guitar lookalike - only this one will be a 12 string, just to add a bit of extra trouble. As I can't play a note of music on a guitar I've learned my Luthiers craft from a book my Melvyn Hiscock bought about 15 years ago when I made the first guitar. Here's a pic of it being played by my daughter's partner. For a first attempt it plays remarkably well. Now the telecaster will be typical Fender construction i.e one piece neck bolted on. But in addition to the extra 6 strings it'll have at least 1 humbucker pickup. It shouldn't be a difficult build but accuracy is everything with a guitar. The finish can be rubbish, but 1mm out with the set of the neck, fret position etc. and it'll only be fit for firewood. I have the maple for the neck and a lump of mahogany for the body but I need all the hardware and a piece of nice timber to face the body. Here's an example. But no tremolo on mine. So if its ok with the powers-that-be I'll get on with it. Ian Edited By TheFlyingCrust on 29/12/2013 23:42:17
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Why not have a go at building a Bird Dog? I have a Traplet plan and there is a laser cut short kit availabe for it which I can send a copy of, And I'll even copy the build article for you. It looks an easy build. Ian
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Pat, You're right, but I'd read elsewhere (not sure where) that provided the max capacity of the card was below 32Gb that up to C10 was ok. I use C6 without problem. maybe its just some cards and not all. C4 are cheaper than C6 so go with that rating. Must get a Mobius. It looks a good 'un. Ian
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The latest version, the 808#16 V2 (all lens variants) are the best ones to date. Buy from eletoponline365 on ebay as they are the recommended suppliers by RCG and are the real McCoy, not fakes. And definitely HD. I have 3. This version has an internal charge regulator to prevent overcharging the LiPO. The USB lead supplied, though, is of poor quality so use someone elses. The internal battery lasts about an hour when recording. A lead is supplied to connect to a 4cell flight pack supposedly for longer recording but I found it didn't work. As for micro SD cards they'll take up to 32Gb. Go for a C4 rating minimum, but C6 or greater is better. Here's a link to the data sheet and instructions. Hope this helps. And, no, I don't have any connection with the seller. Ian Ps. It's Apple Mac friendly. I use Firefox as the browser. Edited By TheFlyingCrust on 24/12/2013 00:54:54
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Just discovered I have a leak around some flashing on the porch roof. Luckily no ingress into the house. Wing Guru shows waves at Ringstead (Weymouth Bay) of 4.5 metres! And that's on the leeward side of the bay. Gusts up to 65kts, and judging by the wind here in Dorchester I'm not a bit surprised. God help us all on Friday if the forecast is correct! Oh, and a Merry Christmas to you all. Ian
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P { margin-bottom: 0.21cm; } Hi Chuck. The Optic 5 isn't a "computer" radio and I can't find anything in the distructions to say it has a memory and remembers the trim settings on turn off. Throws and rates are set with switches and trimpots. Are you sure this function exists? I'd be a tad surprised if it did on this radio. All I can find from the manual is the statement below. Page 18. Nothing about remembering settings on power down. As for the Aurora 9, you won't be disappointed. Its a cracking piece of kit. And programming is quite intuitive. Ian Trim Adjustment This is a function for setting the trim values for each of the servos, allowing you to make adjustments to each individual servo independently of the trim switches located near the control stick of the radio (which can be adjusted in flight). We recommend that you first set up the model's servo pushrods so that the control surfaces are as centered as possible mechanically before attempting to adjust them in the trim switch. We also recommend that you try to keep all the trim values at the center position. If the values are skewed to once side, the servo's full range of travel may be restricted.
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Identical Hitec servos, but one a bit tardy!
TheFlyingCrust replied to Adrian Smith 1's topic in Other Radio Brands
I've just managed to wreck a new servo (not Hitec, though) by stalling it for too long whist trying to set the throws on a closed loop rudder. It was fine when I started. It still works but is sluggish with some twitching, especially when cycling with a servo tester, and it doesn't centre at all well. As these things often use the same chip (so I'm led to believe) I suspect the output stage of the amp on mine is shot. Check to see if your sluggish one centres ok. Maybe its a similar problem. Just a thought. Ian -
And me, please. Please. Ian
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Need a good glider for slope soaring
TheFlyingCrust replied to LYKA's topic in Gliders and Gliding - General Discussion
LYKA, What about a Spectrum AR400? They're tiny. Ian -
There's a bit of research someone has done on lefthandedness. Apparently it occurs in about 7% of the population but if you look at the high-achievers (notably surgeons) lefties account for 50%. So you're in good company Colin. As for ambidextrous - Derek Underwood (retired England cricketer, bowled left batted right), Rafael Nadal (right handed but plays tennis as a leftie). And of course SWMBO. How could I miss her out! Ian
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Need a good glider for slope soaring
TheFlyingCrust replied to LYKA's topic in Gliders and Gliding - General Discussion
I'm just completing a P6. And its a relatively straightforward build. I've glassed the wing and fus and am now in the process of painting (pix when done). I went for a 4 servo wing. And amazingly, its coming out less weight that CF suggests. Most peeps I know who've built one have struggled to keep the weight down. Should be ready to maiden by the weekend. Wish me luck. Ian -
Go buy a quadcopter. Have a look at this rescue. Ian
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My first build from a plan
TheFlyingCrust replied to I_AM_MARKEVANS's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
You don't need a Dremel. Useful but not essential. For sanding radii just stick some sandpaper to a piece of dowel of the appropriate size with some double sided tape. Clothespegs, you can't get enough of them! Get plastic if you can, less likely to get stuck. How about joining the Mass Build? There'll be lots of guidance on the build blogs which are/will be running. In your situation I'd recommend the Tyro or one of its derivative. Check out the Mass Build thread. And as said above, don't be put off. Its part of the learning curve to make mistakes. Enjoy Ian -
Hi Lyka, You shouldn't have any problems flying slope soarers. The big difference is if you're just scratching around and decide you need more height you just can't pull the stick back. You have to go looking for some lift. In a reasonable blow thats no problem and all part of the fun. Just make sure the wind is fairly square on the the slope. You could of course get a powered glider for your first sloper, just for a bit of added security. As for model, there are loads. I fly a Zagi and a SAS Wildthing (amongst other types). Both are great fun, relatively easy to fly and practically indestructable. Have fun. Ian
