Steve Hargreaves - Moderator
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Everything posted by Steve Hargreaves - Moderator
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He is the most amazing bloke....he built a bike for a friend of mine a few years ago....based on a Kawasaki KH250 (a three cylinder two stroke bike in case you were wondering) he grafted on a couple of extra cylinders to make a 400cc FIVE cylinder bike.... Simply amazing...... You'd think he would have a 5 axis CNC machine in his shed at least but no he uses the most basic of tools & works mainly from his head.... Some of his other work....
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KK Spectre?
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator replied to Terry Chapman 1's topic in Build Blogs and Kit Reviews
Hi Terry & welcome to the forum.... Is it a full depth spar? Could it be that both the ribs & the spars are slotted & interlock....? If the spar is slotted at the top & the rib slotted at the bottom the rib will slide over & into the spar whilst the spar slides over & into the rib. This creates a very solid joint -
Flap / down elevator mix
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator replied to TH's topic in All Things Model Flying
Surely the pitch up/pitch down with flaps is dependant on the wing position...? With a high wing the flaps create extra drag above the CoG thus pitching the nose up..... With a low wing the flaps create drag below the CoG thus pitching the nose down.... -
Old Model for old modeller
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator replied to Victor Allen 1's topic in Beginners
There are a few older threads about the T180 including posts from a few people who have kits/plans..... Pop T180 in the search box.... -
Hi Al....I wonder if you are approaching this from slightly the wrong angle.....rather than look for an "equivalent to" electric motor maybe look at what benefits an electric motor could bring to the model. Electric motors produce their power in a completely different way to IC engines so it makes sense to try & harness some of those benefits. A 40/50 sized glow engine will produce around 1 BHP whilst turning an 11x6 say at around 11,000 rpm (rough figures for illustrative purposes). For sure there are electric motors that will do exactly the same but is this what you want? Why not go for a larger, more scale sized prop....a three bladed prop even...there will be an electric motor that will do that too whilst still producing "the power of a 40 sized IC engine" Remember that an electric power train needs to be considered as a whole taking into account the battery (number of cells, capacity, physical size etc.). No good finding a great motor if you then have to compromise on the battery size to get it to fit. In a nutshell then what I am saying is don't just just look to swap like for like but consider how to power the model from scratch & perhaps do a bit of reading around the subject of electric power to understand the benefits (& indeed pitfalls) of using electrons instead of glow fuel to power your model. Good luck....
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No need for comments like that Stephen...... Play nicely or don't play at all.....
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Chaps, this discussion has strayed away from the original OP but is very interesting nonetheless. I am minded to start a new topic on Engine Bearings & move all the relevant threads over there thus leaving this thread for Engine Failures only.... The discussion on Engine Bearings has moved over to here **LINK** If we can try & keep this thread for tales of mangled motors & exploding engines... Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 20/03/2020 19:58:17
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Do we need to more carefully define "thrust" perhaps? Our natural inclination is to think of the "thrust" produced by the prop but "thrust" in a bearing sense would be through the bearing from the inner to the outer race would it not? Effectively at 90 degrees to the central axis of the crankshaft. Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 20/03/2020 19:50:13
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So effectively the crank is held tightly to the front race by virtue of the inner race of the bearing being clamped between the step on the crankshaft & the collet holding the prop driver? Think I'll stick to Electrical Engineering...it seems easier than Mechanical Engineering.... Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 20/03/2020 19:47:18
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I like to think I "know about" engines so my failures are few & far between. My last one was an ASP90 FS that stopped mid climb & would only turn half a turn or so when recovered. Turned out the crank pin had sheared off.... Some "new parts" (crankshaft, con-rod & bearings) were obtained & fitted & the engine has been fine since. Fuel used was Southern Modelcraft Mo-Glow 5% which is 15% synthetic & (whisper it) 2% castor oil
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BT Phones featuring Call Guardian are well worth a look to keep the scammers away. Since we bought ours we've not had one get through. Highly recommended.....
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LOL...If only Jim....if only....
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spectrum updates via Mac
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator replied to Tony Depledge's topic in Spektrum/JR
Welcome to the Forum John.... As I have neither a Mac nor a Spektrum radio I cannot offer any assistance I'm afraid.... Hopefully someone will be along shortly who can help... -
Or cut one from dural as I did for my Mini Super.... You will observe the lack of elastic bands retaining my under-carriage..... I have to admit I came over all modern & attached the U/C with captive nuts & plastic bolts.....much neater I know, I know...one day I will be beaten senseless by a bunch of vintage modellers wielding rolled up copies of the Keil Kraft Handbook...... Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 01/03/2020 23:17:49
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Hi George & Welcome to the forum..... That looks like a Mini Super or a later Super 60 to me. What is the span? The bottom dowels are there to hold the undercarriage in place.....the U/C is placed on the bottom & then elastic bands wrapped around the U/C & the dowels to secure it. The idea is that its a flexible mounting allowing the U/C to move or even come off in the event of a heavy landing. These models fly on rudder, elevator & throttle....no ailerons. They fly very well but obviously aerobatics can be a bit restricted due to the lack of ailerons.
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Like Piers I haven't soldered any XT30s but lots of XT60s. I recently soldered some wires to an XT60 connector without tinning either & was amazed at how much easier it was & how good the result. As many have noted it's very easy to add to much solder & make a mess when the solder overflows. A useful tip is to join a plug & socket together before soldering. This is so that, in the event of the contact getting a little too hot & softening the surrounding plastic the mating half will hold the contacts in the right place whilst the plastic cools. So my method....hold both the connector & the wire together using a pair of "helping hands" or similar; the XT connectors are nicely dished so make sure the wire sits snugly in the dish. Apply heat from a reasonably large soldering iron (40 Watt plus IMHO) with a well tinned tip. Apply the solder & let it flow around the wire & the contact. Remove heat & allow to cool. Insulate with heatshrink tubing (probably best to slip this over the wire before soldering....) Job done... Now many might say that this is a bad method & that everything must be tinned first & I would have nodded vigorously in support but having soldered them without any tinning all I would say is try it yourself.....you might be pleasantly surprised. Just another quick thought too.....be VERY careful when soldering connectors to the battery leads....you are in great danger of short circuiting the battery when doing this....the flash & spark that can result are impressive but I don'r recommend it. And no, I'd rather you didn't ask how I know this..........so be sure to only strip one wire at a time...solder & insulate it thoroughly & then do the second wire. Like much in modelling....it's a skill....the more you do the better you get so get a few connectors & some wire & get practicing....
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Uploading pics. to album
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator replied to fly boy3's topic in Report A Problem
Hi FB3....I can emulate you & see your albums no problem at all....there appears to be no screenshot in there though. I suspect the screenshot is not in jpeg format...you may have to open it in a photo editor & save it as a jpeg before you can upload it. I do know that pics taken on Apple devices can cause problems as they are optimised for viewing on Apple products & often contain a bit of code telling the device which way up they are etc. this code is meaningless to a non-Apple device, hence the problems. If you save the pics you want to upload as jpegs they should transfer to your Albums no problem at all... Let me know if I can help further.... -
another newbie.
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator replied to Derek Gooch's topic in Why Not Say Hello....
Welcome to the forum Derek.... -
Frank, was that the red & white Goodrich one....about 60" span...like this I had one too & you're right it had a really vicious streak. Lovely looking model but you always felt it had one malevolent eye on you waiting to drop your guard & get a bit careless with the elevator. Much as I liked mine it was almost a relief when it crashed.... Chris the best way to post pictures is to upload then to your Albums on the site & link to them there. There's a "How to do it" Tutorial just here & here
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