Engine Doctor

Got a lovely YS waiting for it . Yes please !

Yep use the fishing trace ( as above ) and plastic tubes (snake leftovers) then thers no chaffing or wear. 2.4 shouldn't be affected by metal to metal noise but range check it anyway with the engine running. Good luck

Hi Kevin .If you use a small vent to the tank( Air will pass through a very small opening ) the tank will be able to breath and due to the fuel being drawn by the engine ,fuel will not come out of the breather.I have in the past put a building pin in the end of a piece of metal fuel tube then squeezed in the tube around it , when the pin is removed  it leaves an ample hole for air to enter and no fuel (or very little )will come out of it. I fit this pipe to the fuslage and connect with normal fuel tubing to the tank . Dont forget you dont need a pressure pipe to the exhaust on a pumped motor. Regards E.D

Hi Dave . No I never had one in the first place. Have you tried an add on the BMFA classifieds ? or here on this forum . There are a lot of very friendly helpful modellers out there who have helped me in the past. The other options are Steve web or try a Google search for Enya engines . I know theres a great site for OS engines with exploded views and spares list etc ; possibly the same for Enya.  Most manual s / info sheets seem to contain the same information re safety, running in ,oil content of fuel and so on. Unless you want one for collecting reasons or for an exploded view then almost any  of the current info sheets will give the requied info Re the tube from the crank case ; try to keep it as short as possible to exit the cowling or use a short lenght to fit the nipple then fit a larger diameter tube so that it can drain during running. Regards E.D

HelloEric  Yes that  green veridgris stuff is the result  of the  the copper being is being dissolved/attacked . You probably noticed that the coper was also turning black. A simmilar reaction occurs with the brass tubing but as their is only a small ammount of copper in the brass the tubing is degraded and becomes brittle and porous quicker as only the zinc is left . Perhaps someone on here is a chemistry wizz and can give us en explanation ? Since I have started using the aluminium tubing i havent had any problems. Regards E.D

Hi Dustin . I regularly use a three line set up . The main differenc to the set up mentioned above is that I only set the pressure pipe from the exhaust to the top of the tank ; the other i set into a bottom corner of the tank (or the center bottom on a round tank) I usually fit a short lenght of fuel tubing to the end to stop it rubbing on the tank. This allows you to fill and empty your tank from the same pipe by simply tipping the model to the side that the tube is set to , almost every drop of fuel can be drained. Fitting a fueling valve into the fuel supply tube should be avoided. They have been known to vibrate and allow air in causing unreliable engine runs , not good.  I also use either a ripmax or a Dubro sintered metal filter clunk . Thes clunk/filters ,super filter the fuel and allow every drop to be drawn into the fuel line ,similar to the felt filters used in petrol engines.Fuel left in the tank ,even small amounts can make its way to the engine and cause corrosion in bearing ,efectively ruinning your engine. One last thing ,when putting your tank together throw away the brass tubing supplied and replace it with aluminium tubing . The modern brass tubing supplied with tanks will rot very quickly if you use nitro in your fuel, as the nitro methane attacks the copper content in the brass leaving pitted and split brittle tube s that allow air leaks. . Hoppe it helps good luck . E.D

Hi LHR Dave . I had problems with a an Enya 60  4stroke some years ago . It was a pig to run and kept on throwing the prop. I tried all makes of F/S plugs and  eventually I fitted a taylor short reach ,idle bar ,plug( this helps reduce the compression ) .Fuel was sythetic  oil with 10% nitro. This made the motor very easy to use and it ran  and idled faultlessly from then on. I still have the engine but rarely use it now  as its comparatively heavy and not suitable for the type of models i'm flying. Spares are still available I believe from Steve Webb. They have spares for Enya engines from way back  and the service is excellent. Good Luck E.D

Hello Timbo Thanks for the input. I had decided to pair the motors (two out board and the two inboard ) as you suggested . The motor combos you suggest are what I had been looking at but didn't want to go down that road without getting another opinion ; although the other  motor you suggeted, would be better with 10 inch props ,which I recon would just about be posible . Decisions !  Regards E.D.

Hi to all the electric guru's out there .I am conversant with ic   powered models  but have only dabbled ,quite successfully ,with smaller electric models but this is my first electric multi motored  job and would welcome some input . It is a 72 " lancaster bomber , not sure of plan as i bought it in a moment of madness. Weight without motors and radio gear is 5 1/4 Lbs. Watt ( excuse the pun ) I would like to know is  Do you think this model would fly on four 120 watt bell motors turning 9x4 props? Any suggestion would be welcome ,but please consider cost as exotic motors will be out of the question. Thanks. E.D

If it fly's as good as the Ultimate then i'd love one

Hi all , I'm just building a pinto for a club mate . As said earlier there isn't a mention for the hatch fixing . I eventually fitted small circular Neodym magnets (available on interenet 50 for £2-99 inlc post ) 4mm dia X 1mm thick . works very well . The rolled balsa on the rear decking was reasonably easy although the hatch was trick as it has a compound curve. I planked this in the end using 1/2 " strip .Rest of air frame is straight forward although the sheet tail plane is likely to twist or warp . To solve tis I cut the tips off about 3/4" and replaced it with firm strip with the grain going from front to rear . This makes it more twist resistant . I am waiting now for the owner to send me the motor and servos before finishing it . Covering will be in Light span , very light  and strong but resembles tissue . More later . E.D

Re theDIY  water slide and self adhesive transfers/decals  I have been spraying the the printed sheets with a fuel proof acrylic laquer before cutting them out . It saves getting over spray on the model and the adhesive around the edges seems unaffected by fuel etc . E.D.

 Sorry about not answering your last post,you have probably found the idle mixture screw by now. Its on the side of the carb and sits in a small "U" shaped metal plate. Regards E.D.

Give it a try . You may have one of the very rare ok ones. If it is an OK MDS then dont try and squeeze too many revs out of it and dont run it too lean as that will definately finish it off . One of our club members has had a MDS40 for some years now and it still runs very well , but nothing spectacular. Good luck E.D.

Have you thought about a YS fourstroke? really powerful and utterly reliable . They are about the same price as a OS .The downside is they do like high nitro fuel . E.D

Oh and they fly well too !

Them CMPRO planes certainly do go !!!

 I think that is funny    Buy her some vouchers for the optician for Valentines day , or next time she might throw something really expensive on the fire.

Hi Bruce. What Mk of Surpass do you have ,as they have different types of pump and carb and require different plumbing ? If the pump is made of aluminium and mounted on the crankase backplate then it is a Mk 11 .The mk 11 had a small cam type screw to adjust the low end and this is extremely sensetive.  If  the pump is small and   made of plastic ,still mounted on the backplate ,then its a Mk111.This has a low end adjuster screw fitted  on the oposite side of the carb to the needle. Niether engine uses a pressure nipple on the exhaust and both require that the tank is vented . The Mk11 has a fuel return ,to the tank , and this MUST be free flowing or the motor WILL stop suddenly and can throw the prop. The MK111 does not need a fuel return but tank must be vented to atmosphere. I have both types and have found them ultra reliable . I run them on 10% nitro  and once set up need little or no adjust ment . DO use an OS plug F type glow plug . Hope this helps. Regards E.D.

 Volvo V70 D5 . Takes models up to 8' span and pulls a van (to the nats ) asif on air .Economical to 43 average 30 with the van . E.D

Hi Flanker .I'm suprised you had bad experiences with Inwoods Improver. I had a kit  bought for me about 15 years ago and enjoyed it immensely. Always a good flyer from day one me and my sons flew it and abused it for about three years. We even reduced the wingspan by about 6 inches and fitted various motors with tuned pipes . eventually sold it at the Watford swapmeet . The worst ever plane me or my sons have EVER had was the EZ Christian Eagle (the smaller one). Had to be flown like a ballistic brick .Total waste of time and money E.D

Hi Jeremy. I used the Bluebird 46 engines back in the late eighties early nineties when both me and my sons were learning to fly. They were good engines easy to start etc but fragile . The crankcase would break if you gave it a hard stare , so we got through a few . they were distributed by MFA products who I believe are situated at Deal in Kent . Might be worth giving them a look up for any remaining spares . The other common problem with the 46 was the carb barrel guide pin kept comming loose or ocassionally snapped . This left the model flying at full throttle . I still have one cut away as a desk toy ( also useful to show the workings to any interested newcomers.) Use and enjoy . Happy landings. Phil

Lucky so and so !!

Try using Clearcote  ,made by the solarfilm people . Brilliant fuel proofer The solar lac coloured paints are good but not as fuelproof as the clear . Can be thinned with cellulose thinners or acetone .  E.D

Hi John . The breather on the OS 40 just vents to air the pipe should only be a couple of inches long to shoot waste oil out of the cowl. The only adjust ments on the FS carb are the main needle and an air bleed idle mixture screw . The FS is nice runnig engine and very economical and quiet. E.D