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Ronaldo

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  1. Ronaldo
    Posted by Steve J on 11/06/2017 11:46:22: Spektrum no longer have a service centre in the UK so your transmitter will need to be sent to Germany. I would advise contacting them first. Steve Als Hobbies are now the Spectrum Service centre. Never had a need to use them, but had good customer service from them. **LINK** Both my Dx9 and Dx20 peak out at 8.2 volts when fully charged, so I've set my voltage alarms to 7.5 volts. I always felt the default alarm setting was too low for my liking.   Edited By Ronaldo on 21/02/2019 09:17:57
  2. Ronaldo
    I'm just echoing what many have said here, I charge all mine at 0.5. Anymore than that, and I get a 'false peak', which means I then have to disconnect, and put back on charge again. I don't have many NIMHs left now, I am gradually changing them all to 'life' batteries. They charge much quicker, reliably with no false peaks, and hold their charge much longer than NIMHs. Ronaldo
  3. Ronaldo
    In my hotliner gliders where there is a firm surface of glass fibre or ply, but only just room to take a servo without a mount, I wrap the servo case in masking tape and epoxy it in. It can then be removed if needed by carefully cutting the masking tape and easing the servo out without damaging the case.
  4. Ronaldo
    Difficult to say, as the hobby just gets better over the years. I started in the late 60s, control line, rubber, free flight, but the 80s decade was the 'beginning' of the best time for me. Loads of real 'builders' kits around (tho' I'm happy with some artf kits, got some myself) We moved from 27mhz on to 35mhz, a game changer. Plenty new young members were joining the club, willing to learn, and who didn't mind getting covered in balsa dust and shavings. We could always find areas available for clubs to fly from. It was a time of increasing development in radio, glow engines, scale, sports, pattern ships, etc, and continues to progress to this day in all fields of RC.
  5. Ronaldo
    Some goods tips there David, especially using A4 paper to level the board to near-perfect
  6. Ronaldo
    Along with many others on here ......' Plasterboard', ...... it's cheap to replace, takes pins well, and stays flat as long as its mounted on a true flat surface. I've been building models many years, and used the sundeala type fibre boards before. I've found it twists and warps like %&*^%$*$^" if it's not nailed down to a true flat surface (and it can still slightly warp and lift in the center where it isn't nailed down !), where as with plasterboard it remains flat, you can simply lift off a worn out sheet, turn it over and use the other fresh side. When that's side's finished with, discard it and drop a new piece in it's place. Ps ....... If like me, once you've used plasterboard you won't want to use anything else Edited By Ronaldo on 27/01/2019 14:30:13
  7. Ronaldo
    Around 50 years for me, ...... and oh boy have I seen some changes in the hobby ... all for the better. No doubt many who have been in for longer will have memories of model progress that go even further back than I've seen ! Started with chuck gliders, rubber powered, then my first IC was control line. My first RC was a McGregor single channel, and a plan built glider, can't remember the name. Then as funds allowed I moved onto a 2 channel set, high wing rudder/elevator trainer, which made all the difference, and gave me (what I thought at the time) total flying control, apart from no throttle so just waited till the fuel ran out and landed dead stick. The real game changer was when I finally managed to afford a Skyleader 6 channel fully proportional system. WOW ! there was no going back then !! I had arrived !! lol. I fly petrol, glow, electric, sports, and scale models, and a couple of hot liner gliders, which has progressed tremendously with the introduction of Lipos. Even petrol engines have improved in design and performance compared to the early engines. Back then it cost a fortune for radio gear, some of today's radio gear prices for beginners just starting out are only a fraction of the cost of what we paid back then. After Skyleader I moved on to Digi-fleet PCM radio, JR, and now Spectrum. All in all, it's been a fantastic very satisfying journey, I've made many friends, and gained lot of help and support from family and club members. Hoping for many more happy model flying years to come with all you fellow modellers !       Edited By Ronaldo on 23/01/2019 22:13:39 Edited By Ronaldo on 23/01/2019 22:22:47
  8. Ronaldo
    **LINK** and **LINK** Usually have a good choice, but sadly a lot of the 'better ones' gliders seem to be out of stock just recently. My clubmate and I fly fully composite 'Hot Liners', but in the last couple of years we have had to order from the EU, due to very little or no stock in the UK, even though I would very much rather buy in the UK. Hope you find what you are looking for. Edited By Ronaldo on 23/01/2019 21:21:43
  9. Ronaldo
    Great news !
  10. Ronaldo
    Doesn't effect me yet, but will effect my elderly parents, and me in time. Signed, also shared on FB.
  11. Ronaldo
    Hi Adrian. On my 50cc o 100cc petrol I have been using the plastic ball links that take both the 3mm threaded push rod, and 3mm threaded closed loop connectors. All been ok so far. As for rudder wires, mine sometimes slack off in warm weather, so I put that down heat expansion. Have you checked that the crimped brass ferrule isn't slipping, causing the wire to slacken off ? I had that problem years back when I first started with closed loop, I fixed it by double looping the wire through the ferrule, sometimes replacing the kit provided brass ferrule with my own home made ferrules from bigger bore brass tubing to take the extra loop of wire if needed. Then crimped in 2 places and a dab of thin CA to finish off.   PS ..... as John mentions about checking for burr. Sometimes I've come across  sharp burrs in the closed loop connector's hole where you thread the wire through, chafing the plastic covering of the wire. This can be cleaned up easily by twisting a larger diameter drill bit with the fingers over the hole to slightly chamfer the hole's edge. Also I agree with John, if in doubt, and not happy with them ... best change them       Edited By Ronaldo on 07/01/2019 16:21:40 Edited By Ronaldo on 07/01/2019 16:36:40
  12. Ronaldo
    I would never have guessed he was ill, he certainly kept a positive, helpful and friendly attitude on the forums. He will be missed. Condolences to his family and friends. RIP. BEB .Edited By Ronaldo on 02/01/2019 13:36:03
  13. Ronaldo
    I've been using an electric convector heater in my workshop for years, which wasn't too extortionate, but now think I may also be in the market for a diesel heater too. Just been hit, stung, bludgeoned, robbed ........ by my energy supplier's price hike with a ridiculous increase in my monthly direct debit !!!!!
  14. Ronaldo
    Hmmm ... well if all else fails, I could always go back to my control line flying days ... They can't put restrictions on that ... or can they ?
  15. Ronaldo
    By eck ! that dates me ! Citizen Smith was one of my favourite sitcom's back in the days I was a lad, lol. Not sure if would be too 'un PC' in today's confusing climate, it made me laugh back then tho' ........
  16. Ronaldo
    Sad times indeed ......
  17. Ronaldo
    Just thought I'd add this link for anyone who hasn't seen these useful self locking servo plugs and sockets before. I've just made up some 'Aileron servos' to 'Rx' extension leads using these connectors for when attaching the wings to the fuz at the flying field. They seem quite good, and secure, similar size to standard servo plugs/sockets. 99pence for the 3way male and female with pins set. **LINK**
  18. Ronaldo
    I've asked him if it was unearthed from a BBC 'Time Team' site ...... no reply as yet ...
  19. Ronaldo
    Make an offer for the silencer pressure nipple ... that looks serviceable
  20. Ronaldo
    Zap thin cyano, Soudal high viscosity cyano great stuff at a great price. I build mainly with this. ! **LINK** Zap epoxy, 5mins, and 30mins. Sometimes mixed with glass 'micro' fibers. Good for reinforcing a glue joint and as a gap filler. Evostick white pva Occasionally Araldite, the 24hr setting stuff.
  21. Ronaldo
    I have the Fox and the Salto, and have electrified them both (no slope nearby). They both fly well, but I did open up the wings to reinforce them, and then recovered with white profilm. The Salto has no flaps like the Fox does, and lands a bit fast especially on a dead calm day, even with airbrakes. So as Andy mentioned of his Salto, I'm also considering fitting flaps for crow braking. They are great value for money if you don't mind doing a few mods
  22. Ronaldo
    I have now become intolerant to CA fumes, probably my own fault as I have been using CA for years, often without respiratory protection ! (please take note if you use CA regularly !) So now I use 3M 9913 activated carbon disposable face masks. I managed to find a new box of 20 for £20 at a closing down sale on ebay.. They are only really classed as a nuisance mask, but I find these carbon activated mask very good for CA fumes, spray painting, epoxy etc. However I still rely on ventilation and only use the mask for the time it takes to do the job, up to around 30 minutes or less, then I abandon my workshop till the air clears. I couldn't find any information on the mask shelf life, but I did read somewhere online that they are effective for 8 hours continuous use. When I've used one for few minutes I put it back in a clean dry cupboard, and can use again later. I can usually tell when they lose their effectiveness as the paint fumes start coming through, then it's time to bin it. I bought my box of 20 around 18 months ago and I've still got about 10 left, and I do a lot of sanding, building, painting etc. Last time I looked they were selling for £53 for 20 on amazon, so even at full price I still think they are worth having if it protects your health. Edited By Ronaldo on 03/12/2018 18:49:46
  23. Ronaldo
    This my method of mounting a pipe/can for a 55cc petrol, I don't know if it's what you have in mind, but may give some ideas. Made from 3mm good quality ply, cut larger than the diameter of the pipe/can. The black supports are silicone tubing, and the two silvery things at the front are two cup hooks which I hook a spring inside a length of silicone tube over the front end of the pipe/can as seen in the second pic.. This makes it easier to fit or remove the pipe/can.
  24. Ronaldo

    Ronaldo posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  25. Ronaldo

    Ronaldo posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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