Gordon Tarling

Best and easiest that I've found is to give all the electronics a coat of 'Corrosion X' - not cheap, but it does the job.

There seems to be no indication on the LMA website that the July Cosford event has been cancelled. Why would the BMFA October swapmeet be cancelled so early? Might all be over by then!

I was going to suggest a Mini Graphite - I've had one for years and just love it. However, I can't find it for sale anywhere now and it appears to have been superceded by the Snipe 2 Electric from Vladimir's models, of which I have no experience whatsoever, save to say that everything I've seen from Vladimir has been top notch, though not cheap. Hotliners appear to have fallen from fashion somewhat lately, even Hyperflight in the UK have nothing similar listed. If you are able to find a Mini Graphite, you won't be disappointed, but I'm unable to personally recommend a viable substitute right now.

Not cheap, but this one appears to cover all the bases.

Simon - I've just run your given configuration in Ecalc and it's showing 1755W, which is pretty close to what you're getting and ties in very well with the numbers I get on the same setup in my Carbon Cub. Not sure what prop data you're entering, but I always use APC-E in Ecalc unless there's good reason to use something else. Check your other numbers too. As gangster says, connectors are current limited normally and Deans are OK for use up to 50A, so I'd recommend using different connectors. I use EC5 connectors in my Cub. Edited By Gordon Tarling on 02/11/2019 09:34:06

Suggest you have a chat with Mike Ridley of the Model Radio Workshop - I know he's made various adaptations for different people, so I'm sure he'd be able to help.

Scott - the 'build guide' which I have is just a few typed pages and, frankly, isn't going to be of much help. I do have the original Classic Scale plans and would gladly copy the relevant part of that if it would help. Gordon

Not recommending any particular make or iron, but do ensure that whatever you buy is temp controlled. I have two in normal use - first is the bog standard Weller 40W soldering station, to which I can fit several different sizes of bit. For the larger soldering jobs, I bought a Weller 100W temp controlled iron - haven't found anything it won't cope with yet! Weller aren't cheap, but the quality is there and it's easy to find parts for them.

Sorry - dup post. Edited By Gordon Tarling on 10/06/2019 08:51:07

Most likely just down to variations in rpm/V and batterry age/internal resistance, as already noted. If it's within the rules, warm the battery up to around 40C in a battery 'oven' just before flying - it'll make a difference. Don't go over 45C though.

I've used RC Castle a few times over the years and always received excellent service. My most recent order was delivered approximately 2 months ago, without problems. Suggest you email them first if you've any doubts.

Try West London Models, near Heathrow.

Common reasons for this problem - 1 - plug at receiver end is wrong way round, but if servos work, it's probably not this. 2 - Throttle channel is reversed. 3 - Throttle channel pulsewidth is too high to initialise the ESC - try reducing it with either trim or subtrim. 4 - can you try the ESC with another motor?

Charge the two Eneloop batteries at 1 Amp or less. They CAN be charged at up to 2 Amps, but they tend to get warm at that level, so best not to. As for your lead acid battery - we need to know what type and capacity before making a recommendation.

In this day and age of easy and instant communications, there can be no excuse for not replying to anyone within a reasonable period of time. I tried to contact Propguy some time ago with a query about a L/H prop and never had a reply, so I went elsewhere in the end.