Gordon Tarling

Best and easiest that I've found is to give all the electronics a coat of 'Corrosion X' - not cheap, but it does the job.

There seems to be no indication on the LMA website that the July Cosford event has been cancelled. Why would the BMFA October swapmeet be cancelled so early? Might all be over by then!

I was going to suggest a Mini Graphite - I've had one for years and just love it. However, I can't find it for sale anywhere now and it appears to have been superceded by the Snipe 2 Electric from Vladimir's models, of which I have no experience whatsoever, save to say that everything I've seen from Vladimir has been top notch, though not cheap. Hotliners appear to have fallen from fashion somewhat lately, even Hyperflight in the UK have nothing similar listed. If you are able to find a Mini Graphite, you won't be disappointed, but I'm unable to personally recommend a viable substitute right now.

Not cheap, but this one appears to cover all the bases.

Simon - I've just run your given configuration in Ecalc and it's showing 1755W, which is pretty close to what you're getting and ties in very well with the numbers I get on the same setup in my Carbon Cub. Not sure what prop data you're entering, but I always use APC-E in Ecalc unless there's good reason to use something else. Check your other numbers too. As gangster says, connectors are current limited normally and Deans are OK for use up to 50A, so I'd recommend using different connectors. I use EC5 connectors in my Cub. Edited By Gordon Tarling on 02/11/2019 09:34:06

Suggest you have a chat with Mike Ridley of the Model Radio Workshop - I know he's made various adaptations for different people, so I'm sure he'd be able to help.

Scott - the 'build guide' which I have is just a few typed pages and, frankly, isn't going to be of much help. I do have the original Classic Scale plans and would gladly copy the relevant part of that if it would help. Gordon

Not recommending any particular make or iron, but do ensure that whatever you buy is temp controlled. I have two in normal use - first is the bog standard Weller 40W soldering station, to which I can fit several different sizes of bit. For the larger soldering jobs, I bought a Weller 100W temp controlled iron - haven't found anything it won't cope with yet! Weller aren't cheap, but the quality is there and it's easy to find parts for them.

Sorry - dup post. Edited By Gordon Tarling on 10/06/2019 08:51:07

Most likely just down to variations in rpm/V and batterry age/internal resistance, as already noted. If it's within the rules, warm the battery up to around 40C in a battery 'oven' just before flying - it'll make a difference. Don't go over 45C though.

I've used RC Castle a few times over the years and always received excellent service. My most recent order was delivered approximately 2 months ago, without problems. Suggest you email them first if you've any doubts.

Try West London Models, near Heathrow.

Common reasons for this problem - 1 - plug at receiver end is wrong way round, but if servos work, it's probably not this. 2 - Throttle channel is reversed. 3 - Throttle channel pulsewidth is too high to initialise the ESC - try reducing it with either trim or subtrim. 4 - can you try the ESC with another motor?

Charge the two Eneloop batteries at 1 Amp or less. They CAN be charged at up to 2 Amps, but they tend to get warm at that level, so best not to. As for your lead acid battery - we need to know what type and capacity before making a recommendation.

In this day and age of easy and instant communications, there can be no excuse for not replying to anyone within a reasonable period of time. I tried to contact Propguy some time ago with a query about a L/H prop and never had a reply, so I went elsewhere in the end.

Many garden/agricultural machinery specialists will have a range of used machines for sale and will guarantee them. The same specialists are also usually capable of doing repairs, so worth asking at least a couple for a quote to repair your existing machine.

There's a lot of info on this website - LINK Unfortunately, it would seem that he now has started charging for access to some of it.

Posted by Nigel R on 01/02/2019 12:21:56: " It's been well proven that Eneloop cells have a high internal resistance" From memory, manufacturer data on internal resistance suggests they do not. Do you have a link to any testing done on Eneloops that disproves the manufacture information? The original nimh cells were quite high internal resistance but the newer low discharge cells are much improved. Nigel - there's some discussion on the subject here - link I have to admit that I've not done any testing, what I say is just based on personal experience. JonathanM - A123 cells are my preferred choice when a model requires a receiver pack, the 2300/2500mAh cells can easily supply 60 Amps, though they might be a bit large for many models, but you only require two for a receiver pack. There are also 1100mAh (I think) cells which are obviously smaller. There are many 18650 sized cells on the market, which are suitable, too, but you need to ensure you use the big name types with lower capacity, i.e. Panasonic, Sanyo etc. Edited By Gordon Tarling on 02/02/2019 18:28:08

Jonathan - Do yourself a big favour and replace any 4 cell Eneloop Rx pack with a 5 cell one. It's been well proven that Eneloop cells have a high internal resistance and are unable to deliver the required current without a large voltage sag. Using 5 cells helps to get around the problem, though I'd prefer to use other types of cell myself.

Bandsaw, beyond any doubt. I have a scroll saw and its only real use is cutting out the centres of formers etc. The bandsaw can do so much more and I wouldn't want to be without one. Get the best one you can.  I should mention that I've tried strippers that use a knife type of blade and always found the blade has a tendency to follow the grain, giving a wavy cut. Edited By Gordon Tarling on 01/02/2019 12:00:29

Posted by Don Fry on 17/12/2018 15:36:09: Cheers Steve, sounds better. I take your point, up front of one of those things. Birds you can't do much about, plastic bags are of no interest. And then you get the possibility of a drone gets on the agenda. Will make you wish that possibility would go away. And you see some things wrongly. Reckon I would. Plastic bags ARE of interest Don. Ingested into an engine, they melt and can block vital cooling holes in turbine blades etc.

Chris, the FBVS sensors are readily found on 'the bay'. Bob - will bear in mind that a small pot will work just as well. I'm guessing a 10k pot would be OK?

Thanks chaps, got it all working properly this afternoon, using the FBVS sensor. Not sure what I was doing wrong previously though. I think I've calibrated it correctly, as it's showing the correct voltage on the Tx screen, so now I have to set up a low voltage alarm for it. One thing puzzling me is that I keep getting 'telemetry lost' warnings during the setting up process - is this just because the Tx is very close to the Rx? BobCotsford - thanks for that info, handy to know.

Carperfect - I don't really want to be re-flashing the Tx if it can be avoided. Andy48 - I'm fairly sure that I had the FBVS connected as shown in that documentation. However, I'll re-check the connections tomorrow and do some voltage/continuity checks if I can't get it working. BTW - very useful link to that documentation, I've not seen that before - thanks.

Thanks for the advice chaps. I bought an FBVS-01 a couple of weeks ago and connected it up as shown in the documentation, but the Tx doesn't find it as a telemetry sensor. I did read that it will only work with the D8 receivers, which aren't compatible with my Tx, though that doesn't seem to be entirely true. I'm wondering if the FCS-40A current sensor also gives battery voltage - does anyone know? Bob - the resistor divider sounds feasible to me - will investigate that method. Yes, SLA means Sealed Lead Acid battery - not much use in aircraft, but frequently used in boats. I'll have another crack at the FBVS sensor tomorrow.