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DH Flyer

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Everything posted by DH Flyer

  1. 1) Mini Jazz 2) Slingshot 3) Zulu E 4) Evans Volksplane 5) Astro Hog
  2. How about the Vic Smeed Coquette? Small, simple, cheap, biplane, looks great, kit available, plan on Outerzone, could be enlarged, ic or electric, ff or rc, probably relatively simple to fly . . . Kit available from Old School Model Aeroplane Factory on ebay   30" wingspan btw Edited By Daniel Hingston on 20/09/2013 12:22:57
  3. 4 hours! Looks great and so neat too . . . is it going to have some u/c?
  4. Yes, I'm happy to pay postage too, only fair really. For some reason I really want to attach this wing to a contra-rotating prop unit! Hehehe
  5. Just enjoyed reading through this entire build! I am still awed by the size of it! Most models I build would fit happily between the fins . . . How many forests of balsa wood did you use I like the scale cockpit details and am looking forwards to seeing this one finished- it will certainly have presence!
  6. Great, thanks for your help Daniel
  7. Hi Pete, Thanks for your help. The Fantom looks a smart model and the sukhoi camouflage scheme suits it well! Funnily enough I think my edf was one that was removed form a Phase-3 Squall. I don't have a plastic intake ring unfortunatley. Although I have built a few models from plans I have never been tasked to produce a piece like that. I'll see what I can do, although as it is my summer holidays I have plenty of time for it. Your comment to do with hand-launching helped to steer me in a simialr direction as I will be hand-launching my model (no choice-the grass is nearly 2ft deep!). Maybe it would be a help if I described the model. I am intending mounting it on top of the fuselage of an own-design model. It is not designed for speed, imagine a Fournier RF4 for the looks. I wanted to power it and only chose an edf instead of a prop as I thought it would be fun (I know it is less efficient/appropriate for that purpose). If you could show me the calculations that would be very helpful thanks. The diameter of the of the motor-mounting shroud is 33mm and the inside diameter of the overall tube is 66mm. Many thanks, Daniel
  8. I can add a lip to the front but I am still not sure what to do for the motor end . . .
  9. Thanks for your inputs, Yes Dizz, I should be more specific: It is intended for a large, slow-flying model (I don't need 120mph!) so therefore I assume thrust is more important than exit velocity. Thanks for the numbers!
  10. Sorry can't get the pic to show (I blame the iPad ) But it is just a straight sided plastic cylinder. There is a small cone over the fan hub, and the fan blades run flush with the leading edge of the tube) There is no ducting or anything behind, no exit cone, just the rear end of the motor
  11. Hi all, Just bought a second hand edf unit, and am I am planning to mount it externally above the fuselage. As you can see in the picture it is quite basic with a simple plastic tube. Would it be helpful to build a sort of shroud/pod, maybe a larger inlet, or an extended, slightly tapered exit duct? Any advice greatly appreciated, Daniel
  12. Wow, thanks for all of your replies, it's a huge topic when you get into it. I am just trying to understand more about all of these concepts as I am currently building my first OD. The design I am working on is a motor glider with a large wing area, 70" span. Just to be a bit different, I have settled on an EDF for power. I know it is less efficient, but I think it will look cool! As the wing loading will hopefully around the 8-9 oz/sq ft mark, what Range of power do you think I should need? c. 120 W/lb or nearer 190 W/lb ? Many thanks
  13. I'm sure Humbrol still does (in enamel and acrylic) these colours: No. 91 Black Green No. 30 Dark Green I'm not sure about Light Blue, maybe 65 Aircraft Blue which is sometimes maybe known as Light Blue . . I like the model, is it a scratch-build?
  14. I'm sure many of you will know the answer to this, but please could someone help explain it to me. . . . Model A - auw 30oz Wing Loading 16oz/sq ft Model B - auw 30oz Wing Loading 8oz/sq ft Surely Model B will therefore require fewer watts per pound than Model A, although in order to achieve the lower wing loading it will have much larger, longer, draggier wings. Also, please could you explain the difference in concepts between 'thrust' and power, as in watts. PS also if using an edf, presumably an edf model would require more watts per lb even if the wing loading was still low, due to lower efficiency than a prop? Sorry, I kept thinking of more questions as I was typing the first!
  15. Beatiful model JT! I especially like the detailing of the cylinder heads, how did you do that? Also the pilot's scarf is great-that is a necessary scale addition on this kind of aeroplane!
  16. Haha I have just remembered this! Should help you see how to put it together! Type 'Time lapse movie of Tomboy build' into the search for keyword box above the thread
  17. Sorry craigyboy, i just read your older posts so I understand if you don't want to find a club. You should be fine learning with Tomboy on your own. Just make sure that it is not too heavy, the centre of gravity is correct (I think it is shown on the plan). I needed some help but that was because I made the mistake of having far to great control throws on the rudder, ie it could swing almost 40 degrees each way. In actual fact when you fly Tomboy you will see that only a tiny rudder input is needed to corner it. Hand launch it on full throttle and it should almost go straight up. Then throttle back and gently ease it round with tiny rudder inputs. Initially you will only need to elevator to bring the nose up on landing. When you feel the battery is low (you will notice as it will require slightly more throttle to keep the plane airborne), bring it in to land. Cut the throttle completely so you can focus on the rudder. Keep it straight into wind and it will glide down nicely. When you are just a few feet up, introduce some up elevator to bring the nose up. Where I fly the grass is very long, so the landing is simply a case of getting close to the ground and letting the grass catch and cushion it. It often ends up upside down, but no damage is done. Make sure you have the throttle completely off when you touch down so as to reduce the chance of damaging the prop or the motor. Again, you may be comfortable with all this already as I think you said you have flown several rc planes before, but it may be a help Daniel
  18. Hope this is of some use. message me if you get stuck!
  19. And finally motor to show lead noseweight glued just inside. I gather from other Tomboy electric fliers that this is pretty standard so not to worry
  20. Rudder linkage. It is closed loop with two plastic 'snakes' running through the fuelage to the servo. The horn is just 1/32" ply.
  21. The linkage to the elevators. All control surfaces are just solid balsa, hinged with sellotape on both sides. This is a ridiculously heavy pushrod - don't copy this!
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