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Model Monster

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Everything posted by Model Monster

  1. Another shot, from altitude, showing the main strip, heli practice area (top right) and car racing area.
  2. Our club is positioned under a drone recently purchased by one of our members. The general consensus is that they are a bit boring to fly but do take excellent aerial shots of the field and are really useful for finding models which have got lost in the rough (they found at least 6 last year). I'm With Jon H and BEB etc. We will treat them the same as anything else that the members want to fly / play with, providing it doesn't cause any problems or affect plane flying. Edited By Model Monster on 16/02/2016 10:34:54
  3. Jap golf-cart suffers indignity of kamikaze attack by Yank planes. Where's my prize?
  4. I use a cordless screw driver. Put the threaded rod in the chuck of the drill, then hold the snake inner in one hand,near the end and use the drill on a slow speed to screw it in. Watch for the snake starting to twist and then back the rod out and in, as required. This also works for plastic / nylon clevises and ball-links.
  5. If using a canopy glue (most types), try putting a thin bead on each surface and then leave it until it is almost dry (it starts to go clear). Then place the canopy in it's final position. Using this method stops the glue squeezing out and only takes a couple of hours to set. It's a bit like using a contact adhesive.Edited By Model Monster on 15/12/2015 21:52:56
  6. I've got one of these, works really well. I put it at the end of the bench when doing anything really dusty or smelly and just hoover the front grille every now and then (turn the filter off 1st). The charcoal filters are easy to change every 3-6 months and seem to cope with cyano, thinner fumes etc. It's not too noisy and just needs the radio turned up a couple of notches. My workshop also has a large Expelair wall extract fan, ducted to the outside, but I hardly ever use it now I've got this.   Edited By Model Monster on 07/12/2015 13:30:58
  7. I started glassing last night - From opening the packet of 1/2oz cloth to the following stage took just under an hour, inc clean up. I'll leave it for a day or so to cure, rub/ trim off the excess and glass the other sides.
  8. Posted by Steve Houghton 1 on 02/12/2015 15:50:08: Hi Model Monster. Nice build You said in an earlier post about not glassing the model because you can't be making smells. Living in a small flat I have the same issue, but instead of using epoxy resin etc, I use Poly C which is virtually odourless as it is a polyurethane water based resin, but it can be used on IC engined models without a problem. Maybe this is something you could consider? Steve, thanks for the nice comment. I think it was another of the builders (Robert Parker) who raised the issue of smells - posted 30/11/15. I'm ok with epoxy so far, I think the crust of cured cyano on my fingers and the layer of balsa dust in my nostrils must be protecting me?
  9. Final pic's of my completed build, including the fairing which blends the underside of the wing to the fuselage. I'm very pleased with the way it went together, how it has turned out and am already getting itchy to fly it. After removing the engine, tank, radio etc, the next stop will be glassing and to sort some paint - I'll probably use Warbird Colours (Fighter Aces) and a clear coat of something 2 pack / fuel-proof after applying the Cambria supplied decals. I will also add some cockpit detail - Pilot, headrest and a printed dashboard.
  10. Tailplane and wing, including wing bandage application. Wings and tail.
  11. Here are some more progress photos of my Zero build, wih no problems of any consequence. Here are some more photos of my Zero build, nearly done now and I've reported the very few issues to Daren at Cambria.
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