KEITH BEAUMONT 1

Thanks for reply ,Bob. The mail has totaly vanished from my PC, but I have now found it is still on my phone,so I will be now able to transfer it to myself. Keith

A few days ago I received a free digital copy of the latest Mag from Mortons,in appreciation of being a Forum user. At the time I only quickly looked at it with the intention of reading it more fully later, but it has vanished. Has anyone any knowledge of whether it was a one off occasion,or I have somehow erased it? Keith

Hi Jeff, Photo of the straight through pipe version. Keith.

Hi Jeff, That is interesting information. I have only ever purchased this silencer from new and at the time cannot remember it being listed for size of engine. The centres of the mounting lug was what made me buy this one. I ended up making a multi pipe,straight through , but curved unit, more for directing where the exhaust castor went ,than trying to lower the sound. I have a photo somewhere and will post it later. Keith

Seeing this mention of the Jones .61 made me reach for my note book for when I made one from the Hemmingway kit,6 years ago. A friend had made one a year before and warned me that it was very noisy, as no provision is made for fitting a silencer. To enable me to fit one I altered the size of the exhaust aperture to allow fitting an extention plate with mounting holes for an OS silencer. My notes show that I had a lot of problems with overheating. I was getting top speed of around 10,000 RPM and slow at around 2500RPM,I tried different fuels , changed spacers in the head to try various swish band sizes,etc,but still it would always show signs of overheating. At one run that had some odd results, I found after a check that the main PH bearing had twisted in the housing, having the obvious changes to the timing and fuel intake. I the decided to remove the silencer. My notes say, in capital letters, THIS IS A DIFFERENT ENGINE !. Further testing was therfore carried out without the silencer and the overheating problem stopped Keith.

Hi hillclimber, How is the build of the engine going?

I am in the process of trying to mend an OS 10 with a broken lug, with the same 300c rods Trying out various test pieces before comitting to the actual crankcase, has not been very succesful without the use of a special flux for Ali Soldering. So I can sympathise with your efforts. I am not sure how high I can heat the crankcase safely too. Keith.

That is sensible advice from Jeff2 wings. I would recomend the bar stock designs by Chris Boll. all available on Outerzone. I have made all 5 of them. It seems that the most populer of these is the 1,8 diesel. Keith

Is it not possible to thread and plug the holes? When I have been confronted with trying to line up bad positioned lugs etc. I make a drill jig from ,say, 1/8th" perspecs with the same bore/plug as the casting and then you can eyball the positioning of the holes,rather than work to dimensions and then reverse for the mating part. Keith.

That is a real pain,911 My experience of castings has been very similar, with poor matching of lugs,etc, hence I try to make from bar stock mostly. I think the cause is that these things start out mostly with amateur made patterns, usually with too much taper and not enough machining allowance. Keith.

Some nice Golden Oldies there. Keith

If you prop is damaged,as you say, do not use it for a running engine as bits might fly off and cause injury. Cut it down to about 2.1/2 inch diameter with square ends and put it on the engine for display purposes. What is the other diesel on the shelf? Does that one run? Keith

Trying an electric motor means of starting it is not a good idear at this stage. You willl be bound to flood it and create an hydraulic lock, which will bend the con rod,at least. The answer is in name of the type, COMPRESSION ignition. If you do not have compression pressure, before TDC, you are wasting prescious fuel. Keith.

You cannot give up after all the fun you have had so far! All you need to do is go back a few posts, hone the cylinder with a taper and make a new piston, honed to a tight fit just above the exhaust port. Wear it in by the process of backwards and forwards rotation, until it goes over TDC, You will then have the compression that is needed. Take a few days off and come back to it with a fresh outlook. Think of the pleasure you will get when it first fires!! Keith.

I am new to posting on this Forum,as I am normaly on the ME Forum, but the recent changes made by Mortons to both, allow us to see both at one visit. Hence I am curious regarding you making several Sparey 5cc Diesels. Are you going into production of them?🙂 I have tended to stay away from castings, as when several are involved, they give problems trying to make them fit together neatly. I am more inclined to make those engines that can be made from bar stock. Keith

Congratulations with the first run Jeff. Takes a lot to beat the sound on the first run of an engine you have made. Keith.

For Brass pads on the gudgeon pin, use 1/16" brass rivets. Keith.

In Ron Chernic's notes with the Hemmingway kit,he uses a 16" wood prop and that is what I use on this engine without problems,with a 4 inch pitch. It is worth noting also that he had backfire problems and found the contra piston was too deep and reduced it by 3/32". Keith.

Thanks for the info on the Castings, You will always get a few thrown props at this stage in finding the starting point. Although I usually make a "pretty" spinner, usually anodised, I do not fit it untill engine has run successfully, due to the probability of it getting damaged when it hits the floor, Until I am happy with it running, I use 2 ordinary nuts,locked against each other. Ref not continuing to run, You have remembered to cut out of the gasket, the small piece over the fuel transfer duct. I hope? I did not and am still red faced over missing it! Keith

Jeff, Are those Sparey castings availble to buy commercialy? Keith.

I think the question of how to machine that "lightened,alternative piston" has been debated over the years and no one has come up with a method of how to go about it . Instead of those studs and nuts,why didnt you use hex screws? They look a lot neater. Keith.

Make sure you have both clamps tight and even on that Workmate, I had an engine rig peel out and fly across my worshop,due to clamping not being even. I now fit a tee piece across bottom of part clamped and slide rig in from end. Keith

That Prop will be fine. If you cannot feel much compression dont be disapointed if it will not fire. For the initial attempt at starting, do not put fuel in the tank. Prime by putting a few drops of fuel directly in exhaust. Flick about six times for each prime, increasing compression screw a quarter turn after each flick until you reach a point, Hopefully, that it starts to bang. If you overdo the prime and it locks up, blow through the open exhaust to clear excess fuel. When you have found the bang position, you can the put fuel in the tank. open needle valve about three turns, put finger over end of carb,turn prop slowly to suck in about three turns. At this point you finger should have some fuel on the part that blocked the tube.Exhaust prime again and start flicking hard over TDC. Good luck! You might get other suggestions on how to start a diesel, but this method always works for me. Keith.

What size prop have you obtained? Keith.

Also ,it is a good idea to paint the blade tips of the prop yellow, so that you can see where to keep you fingers, when adjusting engine. Keith.