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KEITH BEAUMONT 1

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  1. I am in the process of trying to mend an OS 10 with a broken lug, with the same 300c rods Trying out various test pieces before comitting to the actual crankcase, has not been very succesful without the use of a special flux for Ali Soldering. So I can sympathise with your efforts. I am not sure how high I can heat the crankcase safely too. Keith.
  2. That is sensible advice from Jeff2 wings. I would recomend the bar stock designs by Chris Boll. all available on Outerzone. I have made all 5 of them. It seems that the most populer of these is the 1,8 diesel. Keith
  3. Is it not possible to thread and plug the holes? When I have been confronted with trying to line up bad positioned lugs etc. I make a drill jig from ,say, 1/8th" perspecs with the same bore/plug as the casting and then you can eyball the positioning of the holes,rather than work to dimensions and then reverse for the mating part. Keith.
  4. That is a real pain,911 My experience of castings has been very similar, with poor matching of lugs,etc, hence I try to make from bar stock mostly. I think the cause is that these things start out mostly with amateur made patterns, usually with too much taper and not enough machining allowance. Keith.
  5. If you prop is damaged,as you say, do not use it for a running engine as bits might fly off and cause injury. Cut it down to about 2.1/2 inch diameter with square ends and put it on the engine for display purposes. What is the other diesel on the shelf? Does that one run? Keith
  6. Trying an electric motor means of starting it is not a good idear at this stage. You willl be bound to flood it and create an hydraulic lock, which will bend the con rod,at least. The answer is in name of the type, COMPRESSION ignition. If you do not have compression pressure, before TDC, you are wasting prescious fuel. Keith.
  7. You cannot give up after all the fun you have had so far! All you need to do is go back a few posts, hone the cylinder with a taper and make a new piston, honed to a tight fit just above the exhaust port. Wear it in by the process of backwards and forwards rotation, until it goes over TDC, You will then have the compression that is needed. Take a few days off and come back to it with a fresh outlook. Think of the pleasure you will get when it first fires!! Keith.
  8. I am new to posting on this Forum,as I am normaly on the ME Forum, but the recent changes made by Mortons to both, allow us to see both at one visit. Hence I am curious regarding you making several Sparey 5cc Diesels. Are you going into production of them?🙂 I have tended to stay away from castings, as when several are involved, they give problems trying to make them fit together neatly. I am more inclined to make those engines that can be made from bar stock. Keith
  9. Congratulations with the first run Jeff. Takes a lot to beat the sound on the first run of an engine you have made. Keith.
  10. For Brass pads on the gudgeon pin, use 1/16" brass rivets. Keith.
  11. In Ron Chernic's notes with the Hemmingway kit,he uses a 16" wood prop and that is what I use on this engine without problems,with a 4 inch pitch. It is worth noting also that he had backfire problems and found the contra piston was too deep and reduced it by 3/32". Keith.
  12. Thanks for the info on the Castings, You will always get a few thrown props at this stage in finding the starting point. Although I usually make a "pretty" spinner, usually anodised, I do not fit it untill engine has run successfully, due to the probability of it getting damaged when it hits the floor, Until I am happy with it running, I use 2 ordinary nuts,locked against each other. Ref not continuing to run, You have remembered to cut out of the gasket, the small piece over the fuel transfer duct. I hope? I did not and am still red faced over missing it! Keith
  13. Jeff, Are those Sparey castings availble to buy commercialy? Keith.
  14. I think the question of how to machine that "lightened,alternative piston" has been debated over the years and no one has come up with a method of how to go about it . Instead of those studs and nuts,why didnt you use hex screws? They look a lot neater. Keith.
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