Geoff S

As the others have said. One potential drawback of switched mode power supplies is that they're much more complicated than linear ones and may be less reliable. However I've no reason to believe any othe ones on the market have a high failure rate but as a retired electronics design engineer that's something I'd think about. In a higher current application I'd have no hesitation in using one but, like PB, I'd happily use a linear regulator in the circumstances he quotes - in fact I do. Geoff

I'm afraid most folks swear AT MDS engines but, to be fair, there are a few who swear BY them. My first engine was an MDS 40 back in 1995 and I think it held back my learning to fly solo by at least a year - some say it held back my learning to fly until 2014 I did have a couple of MDS 38s which were OK/reasonable in my LImbo Dancer (now electrified). Geoff

Posted by Chris Anthony on 31/03/2014 14:44:35: Thanks for the links and further info Chris. I've had a brief look through the manual but the software I could not quite make sense of, it might become clearer once I link up the TX to it. So my Taranis is on order and should be here on Wednesday. Can anyone offer me some advice on suitable RX selection. I now have an IC model, with 4x 45g "standard" servos to be powered. I aim to have a 5-cell 6V NiMH battery to power my RX in the next day or so. 1. Am I limited to only FrSky RX options? 2. What else other than number of channels is going to be a factor in my choice of RX? 3. Is the range my gear can operate at dictated by the TX or the RX, or the combination? Chris 1: Yes, you are but there's a good range and they're all very 'affordable'. You can fit any JR compatible plug-in transmitter module to use other makes of receiver. I have both Spektrum (actually an Orange clone) and one for FlySky but only use them for indoor models like V911 helis and Bind 'n' Fly Blade helis and Parkzone Vapor. 2: Basically telemetry or not. I bought an 8 channel receiver with telemetry (D8R II Plus) last week from a UK supplier for £22.19. The only trouble I have is getting my head round the typre numbers I use a few 4 channel receivers which have a slightly shorter range (1km versus 1.5km) on medium sized models (Riot, Sonata E glider) which haven't gone out of range yet. 3: The output from all transmitters in the UK (and I think Europe) is the same at 100mW so tyhe only limit is the sensitivity of the receivers. Some FrSky receivers are supplied with long range antennae as an alternative. I think thei're intended for FPV when the model can be flown at the limits of direct vision - though I'm not sure if that's strictly legal. HTH Geoff

I bought one of these partly built on eBay a couple of years ago. I'm the 3rd owner and the first one actually to get it flying! I have an SC91FS in mine which powers it adequately but not excessively. I fitted both tail servos at the back and havenit had an issue with CoG. It balances perfectly with no additional ballast. That may, in part, be due to the fact I have three battery packs - a 4 cell 2500MAh Instant for the radio gear; an old 4 cell NiCad 800maH pack for the retracts (I'm perhaps over cautious about potential jamming of the retracts draining the flight pack) and a 3000mAH single cell NMH for the South Herts Models on board glow. Even so, the fusleage feels very light for its size but I haven't actually weighed it. I also decided that it should have flaps. I took my courage in both hands and sawed them out of the wing at scale size and recovered modst of the wing. One thing I did which ARTF manufacturers seem not to was make the two servos the same way round (ie not mirror images) so that a simple Y lead to a one channel would work them together. It helped that I got mine for about half the price of a new one as well as getting a load of extra bits and pieces as the seller was packing up model 'planes. I didn't have quite so much of a financial investment I've flown it a few times on my 35 Mhz Mux3030 with an IPD receiver but I've just fitted a FrSky D8R II Plus and set it up with my Taranis. I've not flown it yet like that but hope to do so tomorrow as the weather looks good. Funnily enough after all the trauma and angst I went through fitting flaps I find it lands OK without them even in light winds. One thing I discarded was the supplied servo tray which seemed to make fuel tank removal impossible. I made another, smaller one fitted a bit further back. Geoff

Really sorry to read that your DH2 is seriously damaged, Chris. I've been following your repairs over at 'the other place' rather than here so I've not een commenting much, It's a huge pity because it seemed to fly well when you did a few test flights at Ashbourne last back end. It makes some of my mishaps pale into insignificance. I can't imagine how you feel. Will you be at the indoor on Wednesday? I'll even let you fly 'my' Vapor. Not much compensation, I know. Geoff

Posted by Tim Hooper on 19/03/2014 21:38:51: But does he have an 'A' certificate? I'm sure there's many an experienced pilot who'd be willing to check over Reg's model to make sure it's up to the required standard. We could always hook him up via a buddy lead. tim Don't worry, Tim. He's in our club. I'll get him on a buddy lead and show him the ropes. He brought the Flea to our indoor session last week but decided the village hall was a bit small for a test flight. Geoff

Got it now. Thanks Chris. I didn't notice that insignificant tick box about the wizard on the 'Preferences' menu when I first played with C9X. I do tend to set my models up on the transmitter usually but that feature looks like it might help. Geoff

I read the review of the Taranis in the latest issue (April) of RCME written by Chris Bott with interest. I've had my Taranis a while now but it's always useful to see what more I can learn because I guess I've only scratched the surface of the many features. One thing puzzled me. On page 31 there's a diagram of a simple fixed wing aeroplane which claims to be part of the PC programming facility. I have the latest version of Companion9x and I can't find it there. I've also downloaded several versions of the manual - each one similar to the others but still slightly different and with different bits of data. There doesn't seem to be a very thorough and exhaustive manual anywhere. However, that particular diagram aided programming facility isn't in any of them. I know Chris appears here a lot, perhaps he can tell me where it is to be found. It looks to be a useful feature. Thanks, Geoff

The big difference between ic and electrically powered models is that electric motors don't need to be started; once the power supply is connected to the system they can spin without warning. I don't use switches and once the battery is installed I treat the prop with the greatest respect. As an additional precaution I have set up my transmitters (Taranis and Mux3030) with a throttle inhibit switch which means an inadvertent operation of the throttle lever won't start the motor. I've also set up the Taranis to tell me the throttle is 'held' and then that the 'engine is on'. That proved useful when I accidentally turned the motor off as I was flying and didn't have to wait to see the model wasn't responding to throttle input - the transmitter told me I certainly wouldn't use any grease on the prop mount. Geoff

Posted by Simon Chaddock on 28/03/2014 10:20:32: Nigel On a purely technical note soldering makes a far 'better' electrical connection with much greater contact area. An important consideration in a high current situation. Electrical solder, itself a good conductor, 'floods' all the many strands at the end of the wire and then makes intimate contact all over between the wire and the connector, or rather it should if it is done correctly! A crimped connector has to rely on a 'touching' contact which is likely to be only a series of point contacts. A good soldered connection will be able to carry several times the current of a similar crimped connector without generating excessive heat. Not really true at all and like all things 'it depends'. Wire-wrap joints using special wrap guns and even modified Stanley pump action screwdrivers were a major method of making critical connections all my electronic engineering career and they are very reliable. Crimped connections are almost exclusively used on critical multi-pin plugs used on aero-engines and, I assume, other aircraft connectors and are considered more reliable and consistent than soldered ones. Though none of these are high current applications Having said that, the bullet connectors used in model electric flight are all intended for soldering. I use 4mm almost exclusively. Make sure you have a big enough iron particularly with some of the thicker wire. I use a 120 watt Henley Solon I've had for over 50 years and is man enough to solder vintage motor cycle fuel tanks. If you use cored solder (which is usual) then no extra flux is needed and I only use proper lead/tin solder- none of that crap lead-free rubbish Geoff

I use a Taranis a lot and it will be my main transmitter for this year, replacing my much-loved Mux3030. I have three of the 4 channel receivers. One I haven't yet used in anger of the other two, one is in my Sonata E motor glider and it works perfectly even at high altitude and the other is in my Riot with no trouble either. They are specified as up to 1km range which is more than adequate for most models. The Mk 1 4 channel receivers were of a much lesser range and, as Pat says above, were only suitable for indoor or park fly models. I've just bought an 8 channel receiver D8r-II plus which has telemetry (which surprised me because at only £22.19 from T9 it's a bargain). I do buy stuff from HK (who doesn't?) but prefer to deal with UK suppliers and T9 offer excellent service. They would probably listen if there was anything wrong - HK don't have a good track record for after sales service. I have both an Orange DSM2/(DSMx?) module that I use for indoor helis and my Vapor and a FlySky module for WM models quad and V911 helis. I would only use FrSky receivers for 'proper' models - lets face it, they're very good and very affordable. Geoff         Edited By Geoff Sleath on 27/03/2014 20:08:16

Posted by Chuck Plains on 26/02/2014 21:00:14: . Plus I'll be needing a Spekky module too for micro indoor fliers. The Orange DSM2 (and perhaps DSMX - not sure if it is) module works fine on indoor BnF models and plugs straight into the Taranis. Geoff

Geoff, if you always charge externally wouldn't you be better off with either a LiFePo 2 or 3s or a Lipo 2s battery ? Pat I did buy a suitable 3S LiPo battery which fits but I chickened out of using it. A Nominal 11.1v battery seems a lot higher than a nominal 7.2v one and, considering my earlier problems through being too adventurous, I opted to make a 2500 mAH pack. Still got the LiPo, unused For my number 2 Taranis that I use for 'real' flying (ie outdoor) I have the two supplied packs so I have a spare in case I need it at the field. In the summer I may put the high capacity pack in my newer (unrepaired by me!) transmitter. So you're right but I'm nervous Geoff

Posted by WolstonFlyer on 24/02/2014 20:48:15: I have just 'pulled the trigger' (as they say in the USA) on a Taranis from T9HobbySport I will probably get a 2500mAh 8xAA NiMh+ Low self discharge Battery pack from Vapextech, I think that will let me use the built in charger. **LINK** As Pat says, the battery compartment is quite tight and will only accept a 6 cell AA pack. I made up my own 2500mAh pack from Vapextech cells and made an adaptor lead so the a normal servo type connector can be used on the battery. I bought a 2S balance connector with wires already attached. I already have a crimp tool so making the adaptor was easy. After my bad charger experience I always charge the battery externally using my Graupner Ultramat 16 so making the battery connector the same as all my others means I can use the same charge lead. The battery lasts for hours but it's as well to keep checking the voltage on the display because there's a danger of forgetting and letting the warning sound. I like to recharge when it's down to the nominal 7.2v but I've always been paranoid about battery powered equipment from my days as an electronics designer. I never use the supplied charger with either of my Taranis transmitters. I like to know how much energy has been replenished. Geoff

Posted by Chris Bott - Moderator on 23/02/2014 12:12:24: A CF that I've just found is "Volume" - yes, you can assign one of the knobs (or indeed a switch) to control the speaker volume! Yes, I use one of the rotary knobs as a volume control to avoid annoying people on the flight line with timer messages. Actually, I think they're jealous that my 'cheap and nasty' talks to me It's amazing that the Taranis is still in such short supply. Especially because I don't think I've ever seen an advert for it anywhere. It seems to be all word of mouth stuff - perhaps not good news for the magazine which relies to some extent on advertising. I feel slightly guilty that I have 2 - only slightly, though. Geoff

My first tentative foray into 2.4 gHz was via a FrSky module and a receiver which plugged into my old Futaba FF7 Super. So presumably any of the FrSky Futaba compatible modules would be a straight plug-in to later Futaba transmitters. It therefore puzzles me why FrSky FASST compatible receivers are popular amongst Futaba users. My module and receiver cost less than £25 and meant all the Frsky receivers were available. Using the right transmitter module (and a display) I guess that would extend even to the telemetry ones. Why would anyone want to plug a Fasst compatible module into a Taranis? I suppose to use an existing stock of FASST receivers. I can think of no other reason - just curious. I have an Orange DSMX/2 module for BNF indoor modles (Blade helis) and a FlySky module also for indoor helis (V911) and a quad. All my outdoor models will eventually be FrSky but I'm hanging on to a few 35Mhz Mux DSP type receivers with my 3030 transmitter. Dave Bran: Did your friend offer any explanation at to why he abandoned his Taranis and Futaba kit and went over to JR? Perhaps he just needed a much higher end transmitter? Geoff

Posted by Pete B - Moderator on 20/01/2014 23:13:08: Never built one myself but I think Micron built a business on home-built radio gear, didn't they? Pete They did and when I first got interested in flying model aeroplanes when I neared retirement I built my own transmitter and a number of receivers. It came naturally to me because of my background as an electronics design engineer. I use an Orange JR compatible module with my Taranis which, according to the instruction sheet generates both DSM2 and DSMX formats. I only use it for BnF models (EFlite Blade helis and a Parkzone Vapor) which I use for Winter indoor flying. I think they're all DSM2. I also use a FlySky module which binds perfectly well with my WL models V911 helicopter also for indoor use. Not had any issues at all once I found out how the bind process worked. For more serious (ie outdoor) flying I use FrSky receivers only. I do find it odd that it's only the electronic element of our pastime come under scrutiny if any owner mods are carried out when people seem quite happy for own design and/or own built models are happily accepted. I've seen more failures due to airframe problems than I have transmitter/receiver ones. In fact most electronic problems are servo failures, I find. Geoff

Posted by ken anderson. on 12/01/2014 09:49:03: m PS -forgot to mention 3 cheers for the D/Patrol lads........I was standing next to Ian redshaw at G/Acre's and didn't even know it........... Edited By ken anderson. on 12/01/2014 09:56:09 Lucky you! I have to put up with standing by him regularly and knowing it! He's a member of my club and even on the committee! Actually, he's a great bloke who builds and flies better than I will ever hope to do. His latest project is a half-scale Flying Flea. For some very strange reason he's obsessed with the ugly and idiosyncratic things Geoff

Posted by Ian Jones on 19/01/2014 12:34:39: Andy... are you using the stock firmware or have you installed one of the open source ones? Just had a quick look at the online manual and the built in features look quite extensive. Ian I did download some later firmware from openrcforums but it doesn't seem any different from that supplied by FrSky except for the startup picture. I've also downloaded and printed about 3 manuals from a variety of sources which offer some help with the various programming options. In the end, there's no substitute for experimenting with a real model in the workshop before flying to try it out. My only gripe with the Taranis is its physical layout and that grip would apply to any conventional transmitter is how close together the control sticks are. I've been using a Multiplex 3030 for years and I like the sense of space I get with this bigger layout. This wouldn't affect 90% of users but my right hand doesn't work as well as it might because of a spinal chord injury and I find the bigger transmitter more comfortable. I'm getting used to it though. Geoff

Are Taranis transmitters any easier to get than they were a few months ago? Certainly waiting is sensible if you can't get out flying but you could always use the time to get familiar with the programming. After my little contretemps I bought a second Taranis and I use the one I repaired for indoor flying and the other for more serious stuff. If the wait time for a newer version is anything like the wait for the current one then I would think it's not likely to be available in the next few months. Another useful option is to download Companion9x which simulates the Taranis and will allow you to become familiar with its programming quirks. It's a free download and available from openrcforums. http://openrcforums.com/forum Geoff

Posted by Bob Cotsford on 23/12/2013 14:21:51: Hi Geoff, that's very honest of you, owning up to maiming your transmitter like that. The receiver supply voltage feed from D and X series receivers is generally as much telemetry as I want unless the model uses a regulator, then I want battery voltage. Saying that, I am tempted to get a vario for the Cularis. Thin end of the wedge? Well, I needed the help I got from RCMF members and openrcforums I'm a retired electronics design engineer and I like to know how much energy I'm putting into a battery when I charge it. At the time it seemed a good idea but when I found it wasn't I tried to warn others. Flight battery voltage is worth knowing in an electric model but I find I usually land well before the danger level for a LiPo. That's 8 to 10 minutes with my Riot, Fun Cub, Acrowot FoamE etc and a lot more with the Blizzard. I think RSSI (Received Signal Strength Indication) might be more useful, particularly in gliders when at altitude or, of course, in case of problems. Geoff

I was tempted and bought a Bosch GluePen recently. It's battery powered and uses 7mm glue sticks which is more than enough for the sort of work we do on models. The battery (Li-Ion) is claimed to last for 30 minutes which is about 6 sticks worth of glueing. It's quite small and, as it's battery operated, can be taken to the field for running repairs. Not cheap at £29 but it seems to work quite well. Geoff

Posted by Bob Cotsford on 15/08/2013 10:26:59: A quick warning to anyone who has or intends to get the new Taranis transmitter from FrSky - use only the supplied charger or a similar 'dumb' 12v half amp supply to charge the supplied battery in situ. Someone on another forum tried to use an intelligent charger set to 1A and it didn't like it! The Taranis has a built in charge system which will regulate the charge to 400mA or so, an intelligent charger connected externally will keep ramping up the voltage in an attempt to force the selected current through, doing much badness to the internal charge circuitry in the transmitter!   I am that man. With a lot of help I eventually identified the fault as a blown MOSFET on the main board which I replaced. It's a surface mount component which made it tricky but I've been using my Taranis in anger for some time since without a problem. Actually the fault never stopped the transmitter from working; it just stopped it shutting down properly when turned off. I bought a second Taranis so now I have 2 ... and charge my batteries externally. It's the time of year for indoor flying and I have a couple of small helicopters, a Blade 120SR and a WL Toys V911. Neither use FrSky technology but the JR compatible plug-in makes it possible to fly both with my Taranis. I have an Orange DSMX module for the Blade and a FlySky for the V911. Both work perfectly. Until I got the Taranis I was using a FrSky DiY module with my Multiplex3030 as well as a Futaba FF7 Super (the old original) with a FrSky plug in. On the Mux I had always programmed a switch as either a throttle cut for ic engines or a throttle inhibit for electric so I've done the same on the Taranis. I also have verbal warnings ("Engine On" ) if the throttle is enabled and the message "Throttle Hold" when it's off. One timer is set on a switch to give total flight time and the other uses the throttle % option to give me a feel for battery use. I've only used it for electric flight so far. I have yet to try telemetry as I don't have any suitable receivers but that's the next step for me. I'm now fairly comfortable with the programming but I've still got a lot learn. I've just scratched the surface. Geoff       Edited By Geoff Sleath on 23/12/2013 12:43:21

Of course Barnstormer builders should be aware that it's an excellent slope soarer - at least Eddie seems to think so. I have the evidence of him attempting a launch when I visited the Haverford West model show a few years ago and he took a few of us up to his favourite slope. The only modification he made was to remove the prop and, presumably, not bother to fill the fuel tank. Thinks. I really must finish off my Tucano from last year Geoff

Thanks Martin but I assume you have the extra nose-leg weight which is likely to move the CoG forward. Mine will be either hand launch or I'll use a dolly. In any case I won't allow it to be seen anywhere near yours as it would look like piece of balsa scrap. Yours is, as I think I said when you posted pictures, absolutely stunning. Geoff