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Darran

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Everything posted by Darran

  1. Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 27/12/2014 20:51:38: Hi Darran, sorry to hear that - but don't fret too much, I think just about everyone has broken the lattice work somewhere along its length at some time on this model. Its a nice attractive feature - but its not strong! As long as its a really good fit back together - ie no missing bits - then just push it back together and dribble a little CA into the joint - let it wick in. For this to work as I say there must be a perfect fit between the two broken parts. I repaired mine this way and its been fine ever since. I suspect the CA joint is probably stronger than the wood! If there are gaps you will need a little bracing added. Some thin ply on the inner face as a splint would be fine. Once that is fixed in place you can fill the gap. Obvioulsy you have to take care that the tail goes back on straight! BEB It's not quite come totally apart and there appears to be no bits missing if I offer it back up. I will try ca and see how we go. Was just worried as it's the tail I might have to start again.
  2. Crashed my dawn flyer and the tail has broken. The lattice work has snaped at the point it meets the tail. Not sure how to repair this. Do I have to start over with a new back section or should I glue and splint it
  3. As a someone who has recently gone through this learning process if there's one piece of advice I would give another beginner its find a club and join it. I know people are all different and it is possible to teach yourself I would say that without doubt if I had tried I would have spent a lot of money on models before I got to the stage I am today. If you are on a budget then the last thing you want is to break or destroy your model in the first few flights. A good trainer at a club is a priceless commodity when first stepping into this hobby. The buddy lead system saved my model a few times in the first few flights. In my limited experience of the hobby so far, practice is everything, the more you do the better you get. But I think for the fundamentals nothing is better than having someone with experience to help, guide you and install the basic disciplines of model flying. At most clubs this training etc. is free and could save you money in model repairs etc.   Edited By Darran on 15/11/2014 13:39:59
  4. Posted by john stones 1 on 14/11/2014 22:08:37: Posted by Darran on 14/11/2014 21:45:52: For me just a small matter of joining a new club in July and progressing from a beginner who could not fly a circuit to being passed off to fly solo last weekend. brilliant 😊 Congratulations Darren A test next John Yes John. I plan to use my flight time practicing for the A test.
  5. For me just a small matter of joining a new club in July and progressing from a beginner who could not fly a circuit to being passed off to fly solo last weekend. brilliant 😊
  6. Hi I am putting together a flight box and want to know what lie I should use. I was thinking either epoxy or aliphatic. What would be the best option.
  7. I could convert it but I am in the middle of training landing and take off and didn't want to change the plane at this stage in my training so was looking for a stronger nose wheel
  8. Hi i need some help with my tutor 40 trainer. The stock nose wheel keeps bending and now seems to bend even when just positioning for take off. i would like to replace it with a little stronger one but not sure what would be suitable. anyone any ideas.
  9. Posted by john stones 1 on 30/09/2014 21:53:44: My fault BEB, i'm a bad influence looks like it fits the bill though Darren. John Yep I think it's a good one to throw into the hat. Bowers flybaby it is for me.
  10. Posted by john stones 1 on 30/09/2014 17:43:08: That looks interesting Darren What size you thinking ? this one won't break the bank. John **LINK** I have at 1295mm plan from http://www.myhobbystore.co.uk/product/16224/rm134--bowers-fly-baby   just noticed this is the same as you suggested. I brought this plan to convert it to a Junkers CL1. But I think it would be a good build as it is Edited By Darran on 30/09/2014 20:31:36
  11. Hi all The suggestion for the TN Mosquito sounds interesting as I have this plan waiting to build. As I am a novice builder I am not sure how difficult this suggestion would be but how about a bowers flybaby ?
  12. I'm in it will give me the push to finish my current dawn flyer.
  13. A bit of advice please on staining my model. I am sure I have already read the general idea is to rub down - clean - apply stain coat and then repeat until required finish is achieved. However how fine a grade sandpaper is best to use for the sanding between coats and what's best to use to clean the surface prior to applying the coats of varnish
  14. Right tail is fitted and wing lined up. Using the string method all seems to be lined up ok. May need to build up the wing seat a little in places but in the main all is looking good. Wing now seems to have levelled out and there's only a couple of millimetres difference in it now one thing I wanted to ask is do I need to round off the leading edge of the wing or leave it square if so how do I go about that.
  15. Darran

  16. Ok it's time to tackle sorting out the wing and tail sections and getting them correct. Firstly given BEB's instructions above lining up the wing to the tail is key. However I am yet to fit the tail to the fus, so I guess that's the first job. How do I ensure I get the tail mounted correctly and straight to give the correct reference for the wing.
  17. Thanks BEB will follow this and check it out.
  18. Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 09/07/2014 08:30:04: Hi Darran, the sheeting looks great! Wait until you come to cut the cockpit hole - a bit of a stressful job that one! The wing tilt problem: The real issue is not whether the wings sit perfectly relative to the base of the fuselage sitting on the bench - its whether it sits in line with the tailplane and fin. So reattach the wing and have a good squint from the front and back. The wing must be parallel to the tail plane and at right angles to the fin. If it is - then there is no aerodynamic problem - just a cosmetic one we can easily fix with a bit of U/C tweaking. If the wing is wrong there then this must be fixed and we have to find the cause. The most likely cause would be that the side members of the fuselage which act as the wing seats are not level. To test this, lay a long straight edge on the seating and again squint from front and back to see if it is parallel to the tailplane and at right angles to the fin. If not, we are into a bit of gentle sanding of the seating on the high side - or inserting a shim on the low side. BEB BEB By right angles to the fin does that mean that the wing training edge should be straight and form a right angle from the edge to the fin on the tail.
  19. Whilst finishing the cockpit it became clear that I have an issue somewhere with the wings and or their mounting. when fitted firmly in place the one side wing is higher than the other when measured from the surface of my building board to the wing leading edge.   initial measurements so that the degree of difference seems to be increasing as you measure along the wing. so it is the same height off the work surface near the cockpit but by the time you get to the end of the leading edge its some 8mm different.   I am guessing that this cannot be a good thing and I am not sure what I can do about it any advice would be appreciated.   Edited By Darran on 09/07/2014 07:14:25 Edited By Darran on 09/07/2014 07:14:42
  20. I have also now completed the cockpit sheeting, not bad for a first attempt.
  21. Right then I have stopped the moving parts to the tail section and rounded the edges, will this be enough it's difficult to see from this picture, also it looks a lot rougher than it is now as this was taken pre my finishing sanding     Edited By Darran on 09/07/2014 06:54:54
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