Peter Garsden

I have used this sytem before. What I am doing is using my 2mm die to make a thread on both ends of the control rod. I couldn't get the clevises to wind onto the 2mm studding I have left. I think the thread is damaged. So I now have a control rod with threading at each end, and that seems to work. First of all, however, I needed to make a hole to exit the control rod from the servo hold cup, and from the other side through the slot I have made. For this I used a 3mm tungsten carbide round file And the other side

So to the fitting of the control horn on the top of the wing and the slot to take the control rod through the wing underneath to the servo horn. I followed Colin's instructions, but have done this several times before on other models and flying wings. I use a pointed dremmel bit to cut a slot in the elevon, and a 10mm slot, 10mm from the false trailing edge as a guide for the control rod. I have some 2mm studding which has served me for years but is running out. The threading is not the best so sometimes I have to re-thread it with a die - or is it a tap? I usually use a 3mm round file attached to my dremmel to make the hole through to the servo. First of all, I will drill a 5mm hole in the servo cup as a guide You can see the slots for the control horn which Colin has expertly pre-cut out of 1.5mm fibreglass sheet, and the slot for the control rod to pass through This shows the studding, which will, eventually pass through the slot. No doubt I will have to file down the M2 Metal clevis so it won't foul

OK, I am up to the point where I am going to create my control rods, install the control horn, and the servo in the wing. This is a shout out to Colin to advise. Here is the photo The servo is a very tight fit in the piece of light ply 3mm but I am sure will need securing. What i usually do is simply make a mixture of laminating resin and microballoons and stick the servo to the bottom of the hole which is abs plastic having roughed it up first. If I need to change it, I just lever it off and stick it back down again. If I do that with this method however I am worried that I won't be able to lever it off again, so what is the recommended method. As you can see I have made a groove so I can push the servo wire down the tube to the wing root rib and hole. I could use a sliver of laminating epoxy, or maybe double sided tape? What does one think?

Next step is to add the plastic servo recess liners. Best tool to use is nail scissors. Also a hole for the wires

Colin's wings come with the root rib already attached as they are bagged over the foam cores. I don't have veneered foam. If I did however and I have done the same before.

Next task is to install the servos in the wing I will be using finishing resin mixed with micro balloons. Colin supplies round discs which I have glued to the foam base of the servo holes. This will be a good surface to glue the plastic cups to.

I need to correct some errors on this blog, for which apologies:- The Wotzat XL is 50" wingspan not 60". There is a model called a Hotshot (pictured above in red and black) which is 60" but that is different. Colin flies from Parlick Hill not Parbold There is no issue with bottom hinging if it is configured correctly ie horn on top of the wing and pushrod coming through the top surface from underneath the wing with a servo mounted under the wing. The problems I had on different models stemmed from using top hinging not bottom hinging, NOT the Wotzat. Apologies for the inaccuracy. Just shows that you have to be careful......

Today, I drilled through the wing with a 3mm drill then enlarge it to 5mm for the wing bolts. To make sure the wing didn't move, I used clamps and measured the distance from fin to wing tip with a piece of cord, so as to make sure that the distance was equal both sides. 30mm from the leading edge then 100mm apart. I have drilled 1mm holes in the lite ply which will hold the T Nuts for the wing security. I used Cyano to make sure they don't drop off when gluing up with epoxy. Colin recommends using Vaseline (to make sure the bolts don't get fouled up with epoxy of course)......... Trying to figure out the best way to place extra fibreglass bandage between the nut, and the fuselage fibrelass. I think I will cut a hole in the glass cloth, went it out, put it in place with a latex finger (now then!) and keep it in plce with a vaseline soaked plastic bolt.

Yes indeed. Top hinged moving surface with crossover linkage causes the problem. All moudies are bottom hinged.

You are right Konrad. The problem occurs when you top hinge but pass the control rod through the wing from the bottom mounted servo to a control horn on top of the aileron. I had terrible trouble with my Sabre for which I have done a blog somewhere in the PSSA section.

The last set of photos show the application of the wing bandage. So complete is the kit that Colin even pre cut the cloth on the bias and preserved the edges and shape by taping with masking tape. The instructions are incredibly detailed for such a simple model. They suggested using a roller to add apply the cloth in two diamond shaped layers. I mapped out the shape first with masking tape and roughed the surface first. Once the laminating/finishing resin is on I layed two pieces of kitchen roll over the top to soak up the excess resin. Tomorrow I will repeat with the top layers having first roughed up and lined the area with masking tape. To remove the excess at the leading and trailing edge I will use sandpaper.