Handyman

Hi Gordon, your comment about the table protractor was the same with my Proxxon. I bit the bullet and got a scribe and scribed lines at right angles on the aluminium table. Was a great help when sanding bulkheads square. The table that you can angle also came in handy when sanding an angle to line up with the fuselage shape. All in all a great tool!!

That Lidl sander is an almost perfect copy of my Proxxon sander that I treated myself to 8 years ago. My sander has been brilliant so I reckon at the price Lidls are asking for this Parkside one, its a no-brainer in my book, go and get one. If its anything like my local Lidl's, they will not have many,get there as soonas they open, is my suggestion. My Proxxon sander cost a damn sight more that £30.

Hi Steve, have a look at a site called,"The Vintage Model Co". Phone number as follows <+44 (0)1629 258240. They list an ME 109 canopy, might be what you are after. I found it by Googling "ME 109 canopy and up they popped!! Hope this helps. Anthony.

Hi Alan. not familiar with this aircraft, but I was always told that if you set your Cof G around 30% of the wing chord, that should be a safe starting point. I have always used this method, even where a c of g is specified.

I was given a formula some years ago wwhich sems to work well, but as has already been said, they need to be given ample time to cure and go off hard. The formula is as follows:- 1 small tin of Ronseal Diamond Satin coat clear varnish. White spirit, not synthetic stuff. The ratio of mix is as follows:- 2 parts of Ronseal to one part of white spirit. So youb can lake up as little or as much as you want with these ratios. I have used the mix to fuel proof tank bays and seems to work well, but give it time to go off properly. Hope this helps

Sorry for the extra ee's and rr's. My keyboard is acting up.

Hi, now we can see thee item. It is part of a kit that comprised a bottle style fuselage, and polystyrene wings and tailplane and fin. It was primarily for free flight. I purchased one for my nephew when he was about 6 years old, and when pumped up, with the small airpump supplied with the kit, flew quite steadily once trimmed out properrly.

Oooooh think about your leccy bill. Still, you can always take lots of orders for canopies and cowlings,(make your own plugs) and offset your leccy bill that way,hee,hee,hee!!

Hi Chris, its a nice job you are doing despite being short on space. When you are working with balsa wood of such small dimensions, it is quite hard to cut a longeron without crushing the wood. You need to get yourself a small mitre block and a couple of razor saws of different depths and number of teeth. Then you will find it much easier to cut the pieces to length. I think someone has also mentioned using a scalpel instead of the cheap and nasty modelling knives that are sold. I use a no3 and a no4 scalpel handle and source my blades from Ebay. } This is a decent scalpel handle eBay item number:182550851428 .                                 Also for a decent razor saw, have a look at this item,] eBay item number: 222607978831. Once you have these items they will last you for a lifetime if looked after and are so invaluable, no-matter what sort of model you are building. Have fun, its a great hobby, even more so when you see your creation fly!!!!! Anthony.       Edited By Handyman on 13/08/2017 21:32:42

Hi all, pardon my intrusion but was there ever a plan produced for Tom's twin boom aircraft. It is certainly a super flyer with quite a broad speed range. I am very tempted to build one.

Now that is interesting, so same premises. Closed on paper but still same premises as before. I think I will wait a while and let the dust settle before I risk any of my pension money!!!

Just as an after thought, where are the new premises going to be located, does anyone know???

Yes I was getting a bit windy when I caught a whisper of the demise of Traplet Publications. I had made a telephone enquiry a few months ago, as to whether I could possibly call in to the Malvern premises and collect a Farmhand 60 plan and wood set and they could not have been more obliging. It's good to know that we will still have,(hopefully) a reliable source of plans and wood packs for a few more years yet. Just like Mick Sargent, I too had quite an unfufilled list. Here's hoping.

If its a robust aerobatic hack you are looking for with a building element, have you had a look at Steve Holland's Farmhand 90. There is an informative video to be seen on the Traplet site or just google Farmhand 90. There is also a smaller version called Farmhand 60.   Just a thought. Beats ARTF aircraft, in my opinion. Edited By Handyman on 29/03/2017 20:05:38

Hi everyone, talking about slide guitars or lap steels as thay are more commonly known, I have two of them. One is a Hofner Hawaian 6 string lap C6 tuning. I just love the sound of them and I like to play "Sleepwalk" originally played by Johny and Santo Farini. Pure magic.

But I cannot remember who produced it. At 76 years young my memory is starting to er,er,er,.I forgot what I was on about!

It might be a Sky Dancer dating from the 70s. I buit one and this looks vaguely similiar?????

Hi Tony H. Another Tony here. If this aircraft bites suddenly, as other contributors haave mentioned, you could consider building in some washout into the wings during your construction of said item. That usually sorts out this sort of problem. You would only need a few degrees of washout, but the difference in flying would be tremendous. I have resorted to this in the past and it works. What do other people think?????

That is looking very nice Kcnarf. Should fly well with the extra wing span. What camera do you intend to put in the aircraft???

Alan, I doubt very much whether you will notice any difference between another Red Eagle that does not have a cooling scoop and yours once you are airborne. Just do not forget to have an opening somewhere at the rear of your Red Eagle to allow the air to exit from the fuselage. Have fun on your first flight. Anthony.

An easier way is to find an old Allen key that is the same size as the holes in your engine mount. Grind the short arm to a point and then clamp your engine to its mount, and if it is a nylon type mount, heat up the short end of the Allen key, and press it down into each hole. making sure to heat it up after each operation. If it is aluminium, then the masking tape idea will give you the accurate location of where to drill and you can still use the pointed short end of the Allen key to mark through te masking tape. In each case, accurate mounting holes marked to suit your engine. You just need to drill accurately afterwards.

Did anyone turn up, I am on there now but no takers?????

Nothing wrong with painting the cockpit area black or even DayGlo Orange. . Its a glider so no fuel contamination to worry about and so simple. The easiest ways are always the best,(well I think so anyway!!!) Happy flying.

Werell Ron, here is a problem. Why were you taught this way, not by a qualified instructor, I bet. The thing is that all through the aviation industry, it is always push to go faster and pull back to slow down. Think about your car accelerator, that is the same. You push to go faster and take your foot off to gas to slow down. If you can handle all of the other control surfaces such as aileron, rudder and elevator, how hard is it going to be to change your throttle action. Just keep saying to yourself that I push throttle stick forward to take-off, and I pull it back to slow down. You are going against all normal thinking in your use of the throttle, i.e.reversing it. The new DX6 is an awesome entry level Transmitter, so why try to swim against the stream. The whole DX6 program is set up for the normal throttle direction. I bet there are not many folk on this site who operate their throttle as you do. I would suggest to you that it would be far easier for you to re-learn the throttle operation instead of trying to change the DX6's program of warnings. What do the other members on here make of this one????? This is going to cause quite a discussion, I reckon.

Yes but even if he gets it to run, he will not get any updates, because they stopped sending them out. I tried to reload my original Copy and it would only get so far, and then stop loading. I rang the Company who maket the game, and they told me that there had been so many updates since version 3, and that when version 5 hit the market, that had so many bugs that people were questioning whether they should have messed with it under the guise of improving its operating efficiency. Mine now works like a dream now, and I make sure that I apply all of the updates as soon as they come in Give them a ring and speak to them. As long as you have the original version, and not a knocked off copy, they will tell you what they told me. We can sell you a heavily discounted up to date version for £x number of pounds and this will guarantee success. If you recall, they give you the program for free, it is the cable that costs £79.99 or there abouts