Andy J

Intend to buy another RX6R from T9 in the next few days. See that he offers the option to download Uni SW but given I only have a single Horus X10S Tx with open Tx is there advantages of using the new software or do I just stick with EU LBT as per all my other Rx's?

Found Intel(R) Rapid start in the PCH config options which was not enabled but changing its status has not got rid of the issue.

Please count me in Bruce for 1.

Will have a look at that Philip as the issue has got me beat.

Re the varnish is that your nails or the clevis Paul?

This also may be of interest to some.

Nexus do these

Not sure how you get a magnetized slot but it is an American product.... say no more!

I just use Windows defender and never had any issue yet...yet.....yet.....yet.....yet .....yet .....yet. PC does take 3 mins for DOS to boot for some reason though which I cant seem to fix. Totally removing power works and gets me a fast start of DOS but going to the lowest level of PC standby causes the delay on DOS.

About to recover an open structure Playboy Senior wing using a translucent film for the TE section aft of the main spar and a solid colour for the section forward of the main spar. Will there be an issue if I take the translucent film across the wing chord ie TE to LE and then cover over the forward section with the solid colour from the LE back to the main spar? In the past I have avoided overlaying two layers of film but thinking there will be more balsa to adhere too by taking the translucent film across the full chord.

On the Sullivan tool what was the purpose of the slot and tang on the bottom left of the picture?

Noticed on the Scratch Built SE5a thread Greyhead46 had a natty tool for opening sprung clevis, see page 8, although the picture is not the best. Given that I am all fingers and thumbs fitting or adjusting sprung metal clevis both 2 and 3mm types it got me wondering how others solve the issue. Tried a flat screwdriver on many occasions but that's not the best and a slip can easily damage any covering in proximity to the clevis.

When the Andrex dog gets carried away.

You could cut a ply template to the correct profile but I have always done it by eye using smoothing planes ranging in size from 12 to 4 inches and good old sand paper stuck or folded around a long section of timber. A couple of pencil reference lines drawn onto the front will also aid to keeping your balsa removal consistent.

When two moths meet head on, a mating dance can often be seen, that unless an argument ensues as to who has right of way.

Nothing special, think I paid about £18 for a boxed set of carbide cutters.

Well after an extended attempt trying to get the work piece true using a supporting copper dowel in the tail stock think I need to rethink my approach. Certainly reducing the speed to 400 divided by the stock diameter in inches improved the cutting surface finish but when trying to part off the work piece the bar stock keeps coming lose or jamming and stalling the drive. In short, lack of lathe working knowledge is preventing progress so will need to seek help from a friend who has a far larger lathe and a lot more experience.

Will my concept of a short length of bar sliding into the machined washer hole not work as don't currently have a method of holding my clock gauge.

Well received the metal today and it does not machine well as never done any turning of steel before. Problem 1 was that my self centring chuck was not big enough to hold a 40mm bar so had to resort to my 4 jaw chuck. Problem 2 was trying to centre the work using only a Mk1 eyeball. Luckily I managed get it fairly accurate and was able to face off the front and turn the bar down a few 1/1000ths to get it back to a true diameter. Drilling out the centre went ok but chamfering the front edge to blend into the spinner left a jagged cut so it will have to be repeated at some point. Then took the work piece off the lathe just to satisfy myself that the centre hole of the washer was going to slide over the engine shaft which it did and it also allowed me to establish how thick the final washer needs to be. Problem 3 was then getting the job re-aligned in the 4 jaw. This proved to be very difficult so gave up at this point and will return to the job another day. Thinking if I turn down a scrap bar to the same diameter as the washer clearance hole perhaps I can then use the bar held in the tail stock to at least get the work piece near to the required alignment.

Yes as you can see in picture 1 there are two brass tube inserted to prevent the fixing bolts causing deformation at the engine manifold interface. Also I have used spring washers on the two fixings to hopefully prevent the silencer coming lose in flight. Entire item is silver soldered given the high exhaust temperatures but a welded construction would probably have been better. First attempt on fixing the exhaust stub had a trace of lead on its surface and that came adrift almost instantly on starting the engine. To date I have only done ground runs on the installation but the construction seems to be holding up very well with no observable leak at the engine manifold interface. Possibly a good idea about a second fixture as I have seen other postings on this forum that report issues about vibration causing structural failure. Have shortened the exit pipe since the picture was taken so the lever arm caused by the rear section of the exhaust and exit pipe is I hope not significant.

Picture 1 was attempt No. 1 Richard, second version was half the length and the exit exhaust stub was taken off on the lower edge.

I made a custom exhaust from a oblong steel pipe Richard. First attempt was too long so had to shorten it considerably. I can post some pictures if you wish to replicate it for your installation.

What I have purchased is supposedly bright mild steel.

Thanks ED, will get some steel on order. Will need to ask more questions about the heat treatment required when I complete the lathe work.

Need to make a 7mm thick washer to take up the play between a wooden prop and a Jen 32mm spinner from JE. Am I better off making this from steel or an alternative metal.