Andy J

Yes did see those from JE but I am a bit wary about using a single nut to retain the prop as the GF-38 has a tendency to keep shedding the prop when it backfires. Certainly did it once yesterday but I hope this will reduce as the engine gets ran in and loosens up.

Did start using hand starting but given the reluctance for the engine to fire had too resort to using the starter. At least I got the engine running but the starter cone is not going to last long. Have charged up the ignition battery so perhaps it will be more eager to fire on the next outing. Will look again at using a small spinner to provide a better interface to the starter.

The rubber insert on both starters are fitted such that the small hole is facing forward. Turning the cone around would not help as the cone is then designed to interface with a spinner, which as I say is not fitted.

Not usung a spinner John. Currently all that engages with the starter is a standard engine shaft locking nut. Have looked at what the full size aircraft uses and perhaps a JEN domed nut from JE would semi replicate it but don't think it would be any better interface to the starter cone.

Well I got to the stage of doing an engine run today which brings up a couple of further queries. Have two starters both powered from a 11.2V lipo. The smaller one turns the engine over fine but the soft rubber cone is already starting to fret away whilst the second larger starter which is geared fails to turn the engine over as the hard rubber cone does not bite sufficiently onto the engine shaft nut. Is there any solution to this issue to allow me to use the larger geared starter. Second issue is after the first start I found that as I increased the throttle the revs dropped so I assume this would be caused by a lean mixture. Hence I turned the fast jet anti clockwise. This improved the top end performance but a rapid change of throttle is causing the engine to cut. So do I lean or increase the mixture to fix this issue?

Has anyone else tried Regen50?

Ron, what method do you use to convert pdf plans into Gcode files? Currently I use Inkscape to display the pdf then trace over the item to be cut using the Bezier trace tool. Once I have a rough shape I then nudge the resulting closed loop into the required outline using the Edit path by nodes tool. Then the required shape is converted into a line path which can then be converted into Gcode using the inbuilt J Tech photonics extension. All this take considerable time so would appreciate if a faster method of scanning an outline can be used. As for the cutting software I currently use LaserGRBL which has a very simple interface to the cutter.

Well its certainly good enough to use on my Tiger Moth Paul whatever colour people perceive it to be. Yet to verify it will survive being exposed to Petrol and exhaust fumes though.

Just to close off this thread I initially tried an Auto Extreme Chrome paint obtained off ebay at a very cheap price which was stated as petrol proof. Paint applied very well but was very prone to marking so was not happy with the finish obtained even after several coats. Was in Wilko's yesterday and picked up a can of Rustoleum Silver which was on sale for just over £8. Resulting finish on only one application coat is excellent with an almost sparkle looking surface so I will certainly be using that brand of paint again. Yet to try the Halfords gloss lacquer over the Rustoleum as the paint seems to be very slow drying so not out of the woods yet.

Very impressed by the quality of the covering. What technique do you use to cut out the compound curve trims?

Thanks all for the advice.

What is the difference of a touch up paint gun to a normal gun? Guessing it is something to do with the size of the gun paint pot.

Certainly the £100 budget has to cover the gun and the compressor.....or is this false economy as notice some two action guns are close to £100. So do I need a two action gun?

Don't have any compressor at the moment so imagined I would match it to go with the gun. Gun will be used for larger models wings etc rather than miniature detailing.

Thinking of purchasing an air brush for general use. Any recommendations as to what to buy with a budget of around £100. Happy to buy new or used.

Ron, how are you managing to cut Depron? I tried it some time ago but the white surface just reflected the laser light.

Just to close off this thread I have now tried using the weight measurement a couple of times for mixing Aerokote. Resulting mixture was far easier to apply than previous applications and has certainly resulted in a good finish on a small engine cowl I have been working on. On the negative side could not find any weight ratio mixing quantities on this product labeling. Also given I only needed a small amount of mixed product I did find dispensing only 1gr of the active accelerator difficult, so a couple of small pipettes would be useful to use in conjunction with measurement of weight.

Had seen your post Jim. How did you eventually proceed with fuel proofing it?

Do have some metallic adhesive covering which I purchased from Mick Reeves which I have used on the TM undercarriage support struts but is a right faff to apply so don't think I will be using that method.

Would like to paint my 1/4 scale Tiger Moth engine cowl in a chrome effect paint. Can anyone recommend a suitable product that has at least some chance of surviving a petrol engine environment.

This is the one I have purchased. All of them are pretty much the same I assume, its only the price that changes.

Had miss understood as to what a velocity stack was on a carb as thought it was more a device to draw air from outside the cowl but having looked at other threads discussing this aspect I can now see what is required. So my next query is does a velocity stack have to be matched to a particular engine / carb and if so what are the critical aspects required to ensure the device works as intended. Have not heard of feeding the crankcase breather back into a carb before as suggested by ED. Is this not going to be an issue as assume the breather is not going to supply a steady stream of oil and hence the air intake is occasional going to see a sudden increase in air density as a glob of oil is drawn into the carb.

Agree Brian as have been mixing epoxy by eye for the last 50years. It was more the issue on mixing up fuel proofer that range between 4:1 and 10:1 dependent on brand as to the reason I started this thread.

Did dig out my micro scales a couple of days ago with the intent of trying to use it to measure out a batch of epoxy but unfortunately found the unit was no longer working. Have already placed an order for a replacement unit measuring up to 500gr but with hindsite it would have been far better to have gone for the one as recommended by Graham. Had not noticed that several manufactures post the mix ratios by weight on their instructions so will now go looking for this info.

Removed the throttle linkage and verified that the first picture shows the closed position, so now just need to check if the servo is running in the correct direction. As to the suggestion of removing the throttle spring will give this some thought, but don't recall seeing its location so will have to take a further look at the carb diagram tomorrow. Like the idea of a velocity stack on the carb, so will have a look if that is possible. Is it better to have a direct connection to the carb intake? Have made a custom baffle for the engine which I spent this afternoon attaching to the cowl with fiberglass, so cooling air should now be forced through the cylinder fins. Cowl sides are hinged on both sides as per the full size aircraft, so there should be no problem accessing the choke.