John Melville

I would appreciate the jig if I were lucky

Re posts above by Tim & Lee. My recently bought Spektrum DX7 states on its CE plate stuck on the back "E Version, Horizon Hobby.inc. Manufactured by JR. Made in Malaysia"

  Typical - just bought my DX7 before seeing this thread, whilst all will be revealed in the fullness of time it would be reassuring (or not) to hear from Spectrum and their importers together with the BMFA  - let's call it customer support or even after sales service!  JM

Mode 2 I fly in Warwickshire / Gloucestershire I learnt in Warwickshire (still do) I am self taught  

Grateful thanks for all the help that I can get

I had one once and like Stephen Grigg above mine would only rotate if used gently but would stop before full revs - it turned out that my prop was too big and my battery too small, don't know if this will help at all ?

Always willing to try things that may make life easier

The designer used to be an architect and he insisted upon two up two down, said it used to be all the rage and was bound to be a hit as these things have a habit of comming around (and around and around) every so often !

Like many others I am so frustrated with the differing types of balancing plugs fitted to batteries, the incompatability of plugs causes unecessary practicle headaches in addition to the technical ones when buying new batteries. Does anyone know if there is someone out there that sells a kit/selection of the most popular adaptors 

My next extravagance is hoped to be a bipe, but it would probably not be as good as this one - hence I would love to win it

Here's hoping that I don't have to go out and buy one of these !

I would love one of these for free - I'm therefore in it to win it (please)

Yes please, I wouldn't mint one of these at all

In it to win it - - please

Thanks Timbo & Nick Peace of mind at last - I think I'm getting there (slowly)

Thanks Timbo for your advice on the OPTO (above) I assume that with 4 cells and 5 servos I have no choice but to employ the OPTO with seperate receiver battery or UBEC ? Also, what is the differerence between UBEC and S-BEC ?  Regards  John

I liked the look of the Seagull AT-Texan reviewed in RCM&E June issue and as the guy at the shop said that my waiting for use EnErG A3615-4 1600RPM/V and JETI Advance 40 plus would be a good match the cash just flew out of my wallet. Having learnt that I was misinformed I have now bought the recommended JP C42-20 900KV and intend getting the recommended 4s battery. I have read that above 3s an OPTO type ESC should be used and accordingly was hoping to employ a yet unused JETI Advance 70 opto plus together with SBEC-5V. I have also read that when using SBEC (or separate receiver battery) the red wire on the controller receiver/throttle plug needs to be disconnected. Is this still the case when using an OPTO version of the controller which I thought is designed for such applications. The JETI OPTO I have has three wires fitted to the receiver plug red, brown and orange.Do I disconnect the red wire from the controller/receiver plug or just plug it in as it is ?I would very much appreciate some helpThank you

Yes please I would like one

I recently purchased the 62.5in electric version and currently saving for the gear to power it with ! The ic version would be wicked, I'd love one - please.

Yes please

My trainer is a bit battle battered now so this cessna would be just the job to start the new season with, so yes please.

Two years ago I was in a similar position, I had a trainer bought for me for Christmas and went in search of a radio set that I could justify the cost of bearing in mind that there was a posibility of the trainer getting recked and never replaced. I now have a few planes - ic, electric and gliders - the transmitter I chose is a Sanwa 6000 sport which I still find more than adequate although the model memory is limited at just 4. Notwithstanding this has encouraged me to investigate the computer radio as I have to reset it and learn its secrets. I am now hinting heavily for a DX7 for Christmas but if I'm honest its mainly for the momories as my 6000 sport still surpasses my expertise.

Thanks David I'm looking forward to it, in the meantime can anyone recommend a suitable wattmeter, where to get it from and sort of price I should be prepared to pay ?

Good idea shaun, I found your thread because, although relatively new to model flying I am in the same way in need of basic information. Whilst from an electrical background and having digested all available information from RCM&E I remain hungry for more in order to complete the picture. It is unfortunately human nature that those in the know sometimes take their knowledge for granted which leads to some very usefull information being passed on but with essential bits missing, leaving the novice more confused. I am just about comming to terms with electric motor numbers, prop sizes and batteries etc but to match everything properly specialist instruments are required ie amp and voltmeters, better still a wattmeter. An article on this aspect of our hobby would be very usefull

The 'all-weather' tape is a bit heavier than sellotape and its derivatives but much stronger. On larger repaires I have used sollotape to rejoin the ripped edges of the solarfilm then heated the repair to re-tension the covering and then covered the whole repair (between wing ribs) with cut to size clear 'fablon' available from Woolworths (it's about 300mm wide). This makes the flying surface as smooth/flat as the original finnish.