Nigel R

Slow down. 12x8 produces about the right power for this model. Fit it, check it with the wattmeter. Clearance? This is a 40 sized trainer. A 40 glow motor will use 11" or 12" props. I'd be amazed if you can't fit a 12" prop on this thing. Not every perceived problem needs to be solved by splashing more cash.

One project on the go at any one time. Except for the odd exception, but it's the rule. I do lots of things badly, or one thing well, in my experience.

Can't see the need to extend the vent and filler lines to the back of the tank, keep them short so they don't foul the clunk line. Note two brass tubes bent to a right angle.

What are you building? (Don't say "wings")

Cost = zero. Most of my models have an accessible carb, and I do the same.

I can't quite read the brand from the photo. Previously, I've used (and like) the multiplex MPX connectors.

Having posted that, I use a bit of plasterboard (takes pins easily) resting on a flat surface to build wings on. For fuselages, I made the RCM fuselage jig a few years ago. Simple, effective. https://outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=11465

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/tools/magnetic_building_board/ More than you'll ever need to know about magnetic building boards.

split the difference?

Nylon into tapped hardwood or ply every time, like Paul de t. Never an issue with stripped threads.

patmc, you can see from prev page that all signal pins are connected via the 47ohm resistors... middle pin track goes around top pin to the top 47ohm res.

The ST chip is actually a whole microcontroller, or CPU. This widget could be doing anything. Might be a mixer. Or a door sequencer. Or a reverser. Or a tester. Or then again, it could spell out 'sausages' using morse code if you connect an LED to one of those plugs.

cut the heatshrink off it and be done with the mystery if you don't know what it is, you may break something

Surely that's very difficult to conclude if you are not part of a club? Also, I've never been in a club like you describe.

Tony, if you cannot find bi fly parts or kit I suggest building an aeromaster. It's so very similar. And also an excellent flyer. Lower wing probably needs about 1" total dihedral.

not, as far as I know, an issue

the statistic takes that into account. not arguing the other points though - battery fires are really, really bad. and when an ev has been put out, it may still have to be dumped in a container of water for a couple of weeks to make sure it doesn't reignite.

To best of my knowledge, it is advisable to raise the battery temp to around 15deg before you start drawing any serious current or fast charging. Performance is poor at low temperature.

London Fire Brigade seem fairly unbiased on this front. https://www.whatcar.com/news/how-safe-are-electric-cars/n25839

The irony is that automotive batteries do actually the kind of monitoring systems that I've mentioned, so once in use, they are now far safer than anything we do in hobby land. Plus they have a different style of cell and the rate they are charged and discharged at is much kinder to the cell. I seem to remember reading statistics that suggest electric cars now suffer fires less frequently than ICE cars.

I like having lots of lipos stored in the shed a lot less than I like storing a few gallons of glow.

Safe and unsafe. Various things increase the risk of something going wrong. At some point, that means a battery would stop being safe and start being unsafe, and I can't tell you what that point is. Anyway, factors are: Age. Use pattern. Charge state. Exact chemistry type. The internal degredation can be partially measured. With the right kit. Really, to predict when cells are going wrong, you need lifespan operating data, and we just don't do that because it requires specialist kit that can assess how cells perform and can track that against the same cell's performance history. Oddly enough, that's expensive to do. One of the internal degredations (dendrite growth) can cause the 'spontaneous' combustion issues that have been reported. Doesn't even have to be actively charging. If there's enough of a short to raise the temperature inside (and that can take some time) to the point where combustion starts, then it's game over. Yes, that circumstance is unlikely, but, it does happen. Point of note, big lipos have lots more stored energy, and lots more combustible material. I will admit, this whole topic is one reason I stick to small stuff for electric flight. The smaller batteries are financially feasible to simply replace every few years. Newer batteries are by definition in better condition than older ones.

I don't think anybody suggested a cheap and cheerful petrol 2 stroke sounded realistic. Not even sure realistic was mentioned with regard to glow 4 strokes, better, yes, realistic, no, still nothing like a Merlin or DB600, or even a Lyco/Conti really. But better, yes.

Or hornet...

Twin twins, there's a project to aim for...