Capt Kremen

Age 57 All Electric - Sport, Scale, Vintage, Aerobatic, Heli / Glider - Thermal & Slope Age 5 KK Rubber Power  

BNF & PNF Yes definitions mostly correct ... but ... Looking at the latest E-Flite offering, the '4 Point', it is offered in BNF & PNF options. Both have Rx neither come with a Tx but the BNF has the flight LiPos and charger unit ,the PNF assumes you have these already. When seeking 'PNF' versions of other 'E-Flite' and 'Parkzone' models, I found many model shops telling me they are 'stuck' with stock of the versions containing the Tx. Customers just want the RTF plane without the Tx. Well, once you have one you really don't want to buy another do you(?)

On a recent business trip to West London, (with time to kill before my appointment), I popped in first to 'Addlestone Models'. 'Good Morning Sir' greeting without prompt 'Anything I can assist with?' Alas they didn't have what I needed but at least they were making some effort at civility and 'customer service'. Next stop, 'Slough Models'. From the magazines you know they carry quite a stock. Pity they don't carry manners or customer service though. No greeting on entering their premises. I found one or two items (about £50-00 worth actually) and was about to ask for some servos. The assistant when eventually dragging himself seemingly reluctantly from nothing especially urgent said, in a curt, sirly manner 'You buying those?' 'No don't trouble yourself' I said leaving them on the counter in disgust at their attitude. Final stop 'West London Models in Harlington. A friendly greeting and really helpful advice. Needless to say I spent a few 'pennies' They were happy, I was happy. Buck your ideas up shops we are voting with our feet 'n fingers on the net! Edited By Capt Kremen on 06/11/2009 22:59:36

Further thought... I recall someone saying they built on glass.Yes, a sheet of glass laid over the plan. Not sure how components are held in place though as model pins would have a tough job!Anyone enlighten us please?

Perhaps all suggestions here are compromises or at best hit ' miss:Candle Wax - Tried it years ago, messes the plan up and 'flakes  of candle' everywhere when you finally fold/roll the plan are not popular with domestic management! Cling Film - Sticks to wood and is a B*?"! to get off if you have used 'Cyano de Bergerac'Geaseproof paper - PVA/White glue loves to bond with this. Polythene Sheet e.g. 'B&Q' or 'Solarfilm' backing - Supa Duppa Glue sticks to it. Protectaplan/'Tesco' veg bag - Aliphatic glue sticks to it and components being constructed. (Note: I build a lot of vintage/old time models and these are mostly balsa 'stick' frame constructions. which are relatively fragile to unpick bits of barrier plan/protection from).

Thanks to all for their helpful posts. [I ordered 2 packs of 'Protect-A-Plan' from Balsa Cabin at 14:00 Friday and good old posty delivered them Sat morning at 09:00].   Fantastic and very helpful service from the Balsa Cabin team (Stuart, Lesley & Vanda).   Oh and It does seem to be the same type of plastic that Tesco's use for their loose fruit and veg bags!     Edited By Capt Kremen on 31/10/2009 12:58:52 Edited By Capt Kremen on 31/10/2009 13:00:27

If you're interested there's a fair video of a 'Mini Super' on YouTube at:   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NyXsHTenqoI   I've got a BB 'Mini Super' kit and am about to commence 'balsa bashing'. (Mine will be electric though gave up the smellies years ago!!!)   Previous BB Kit experience would suggest Colin Buckle's cutters need more regular attention to 'sharpening' and 're-aligning' but they are one of the few vintage/old time model kit outfits still trading.

Perhaps a rarity these days, but I still build using good old balsa - sheet and strip wood and use various adhesives. I see many a time in the magazine recommendation to use the clear backing from film coverings to protect the plan. Well, yes but ... I find super-glues etc. adhere to this material and personally find the 'slightly greasy' feel of Tescos finest Fruit 'n Veg clear bags superb for protecting said plans against the ravages of 'Cryano Cyer wotsit' and Ambroid Balsa cement etc! I would however prefer not to have to make a 'mosaic' of these small bags and use a larg(er) sheet or roll of the material. Does anyone know where you can obtain it and what its official designation is i.e. the type of plastic it is made of?Edited By Capt Kremen on 29/10/2009 15:20:53

Been using them, (AA and AAA),  for over a year (i.e. from when they were first available at European trade shows). Varied use (not just model gear) and differing current demands, shows they are good on low current draw e.g. a Spektrum Tx but a portable music MP3 recorder soon 'blinked' red indicating low battery so still not a universal replacement for Duracell AAs or AAAs !!! UK prices seem high too.

David, How many flights have you made with this model (be honest!)? It never ceases to amaze me when folk say 'Oh I've had hundreds of hours on the 'Acme 40' or whatever. As someone used to logging fullsize flying hours, it takes quite some calendar time to amass as many flights (and flying time) as some would have us believe. I imagine in your privilaged editors position you would wish to test/review a new model a week (if not more) thinks ... oh must allow for the un co-operative British weather and the day-to-day 'Domestic tasks to-be-done'  Mmmm it doesn't leave much time to amass many flights does it(?) To anyone...Next time you're up at the flying field with fellow modellers take note of how many flights are actually achieved by someone in a session then ask that flier how long they think they've been flying. Back to the point ... The Graupner Elektro Trainer if built as per instructions with cooling holes, will (eventually) suffer nose fatigue/failure due to the torque of the motor. This is exacerbated, as your review eludes to, especially when using 3S Li-Po.  

Any small brushless outrunner of approx.1000Kv  that will spin an Aeronaut folding prop assembly using 7 x 4 or 8 x 5 blades. Add an ESC of at least 10A, preferably higher to allow good margin. This will need to be secured to the 'roof' of the cockpit area. Also be very careful of how the motor leads are run back to prevent their fouling the spinning motor case. (Looking at web sites in no particular order "BRC" offer BRC A2212-15T 930Kv (120W) "Overlander" offer - Thumper 2826 Motor - 140 watt motor, kv 1000). Further to my first post on the model. Internal space is perhaps naturally very tight in this model. I would suggest a few 'dry run' assemblies and positioning of your R/C equipment to ensure it fits AND you can practically access the servo connectors, that's assuming you dismantle the model between flying sessions. HiTec HS55 servos fit perfectly in the pre-moulded cut-outs and included plastic sub-assemblies which retain the servos within the fuselage. Rather than carry dead weight ballast along for the ride to achieve the correct C of G, a larger Li-Po pack e.g. 800 possibly 1300mAh could be considered. Again the limitations are access through the lower fuselage moulded plastic hatch. Some 3 cell packs might not fit. If you use the suggested MPX 450mAH 3 cell pack, you will be placing ths as far forward as possible and even then adding 'dead weight' to achieve the recommended C of G. Tiny fingers to assemble the model will be an asset too!  

Received my 'Merlin' today. It looks neat BUT first off, for a German manufacturer (and a country that espouses 'green' practices and thinking), too much packaging and poor aspects of packaging. The elapor 'cradle' the model is placed in (great idea), however it allows the thin tailplane and wing units to move around whilst in courier/postal transit. Fortunately no damage to mine, but something to be mindful of. I acquired, (the way overpriced)  MPX motor set. It does include a neat spinner unit but in restrospect there are many cheaper and useable altenate motor/ESC/spinner units available. Some 'interesting' instructions include blending Enlish & German abbreviations i.e. 'AQL' = "Aileron/Queruder/Left/Links". First reports across other web sites suggest it's a nippy little sport model. The instructions give a warning though quote: "Like any other aircraft, this model has static limits! Steep dives and silly, imprudent manouevres may cause structural failure and the loss of the model" So there...you have been warned!!! I'm looking forward to the build and flight testing, further reports soon I hope.

Something to be mindful of if converting an i/c model or even updating an 'older' NiCad/NiMH cell electric design and now planning on installing a brushless motor and LiPo cells ... the Centre of Gravity. Glow & diesel motors with a (full) fuel tank are often heavier than a comparable brushless outrunner electric motor plus a 2 cell LiPo pack. Even purpose design electrics like the Multiplex 'MiniMag' (a great trainer BTW), need careful thought and checking to ensure the C of G is not too far aft. Larger (heavier)capacity packs are often not practical to fit though as 'cockpit/fuselage' size & space can restrict their accomodation. 

Hi Gary,   I was the reviewer of the West Wings Cub all those years ago in an early 'EFI' magazine.   It flew well given the limitations at that time i.e. heavy NiCad cells of limited capacity, large (& heavier) servos, radio etc and inefficient brushed motor. Flight speed was necessarily above a realistic scale speed and anything but the lightest of wind was not good for it. A German friend of mine molded a plastic cowling for it. This greatly assisted access to the motor and made it look more scale like. The kit is a joy to build. I think I covered mine in Yellow Litespan.   With modern lightweight R/C gear and Li-Po cells it should fly a dream. You are (almost) tempting me to revisit the model!   Cheers,   Dave    

The Graupner 'SOLIDPOR' is to all intents and purposes the same as the Multiplex 'ELAPOR'. I regularly build kits from both these manufacturers and assure Mike you can use ordinary NOT Foam Friendly as stated super-glue/cyano. I use the super glue 'Medium' viscosity as sold by Punctillio Models together with their associated spray 'kicker/activator'. The 'medium' gives a little more time to adjust things before 'it's too late!' (Multiplex sell their own label version 'Zacki Elapor' (at a typical Multiplex price!!!!) if you really MUST use kit manufacturers (badged) products!) HEALTH WARNING/CAUTION - The quantities of the glue and activator that are required, (particularly when joining large surfaces e.g. fuselage halves), can give off quite irritating (to nose, lungs, throat) fumes. I recommend applying the glues outside if possible or in a very well ventilated area. The 'kicker' creates a lot of heat when going off (exothermic reaction - as I recall from school physics?) so also watch your fingers as you hold parts together whist the glue kicks in and sets. How do I know this???? If you do get fingers/flesh stuck to themselves or model parts, use Acetone to dissolve the bond. A small bottle from the local chemist is about 70p. Again use in a well ventilated area and don't breath the fumes/vapours. 'UHU POR' is a great glue but can be 'heavy' if care in application is not heeded. Used with the previous caution, a good super-glue/cyano is the best and quickest method.

The German magazine publishers have managed for several years to publish a yearly CD of their FMT (FlugModelteknik) magazine content, it's great. I really wonder, (especially in these hardened times), how long all the model 'comics' on the newsagents shelves can survive(?) I rarely by a copy these days as apart from the poor content (i.e. manufacturer biased 'What a wonderful; product at a mere £395 etc etc.. type reviews!!!) I can, at a click of the mouse freely gather reviews from all over the globe (and they usually tell it as it is warts 'n all with multiple pics and video too). Users can interact and ask the builder/flier questions, get them to post a photo to illustrate a detail point etc. How long does that take for a monthly printed mag, assuming it's possible(?) The web is relatively instantaneous in offering reviews, whereas magazines sometimes take months and then, as cited previously, can't (or don't) tell the full story of some products 'shortcomings'! I really don't wish to sound pessimistic for the model press but times have changed. I was saddened recently to see in my copy of the British Electric Flight Association magazine their possibility of winding up. Alas, again it's a sign of changing times and habits which are unlikely to be reversed. Just as good old 'Woolies' with its LP record listening booths and now the stores themselves have met their demise thanks to digital formats and downloads. I think the writting must be on the wall, (excuse pun), for the model press unless they can adapt. The success of the e-mag /forum / reviews surely is the indication.

Am I seeing Double, Double - vision on this site(?) [Posts left here reviewing(?) - I left my review of this model on the review pages awhile ago(?)] As stated, Mk 1 has Servos in front fuselage + weak spar. Mk 2 version has servos in tail + stronger spar. For further info, download the latest Graupner instruction manual from their site. Watch out when fitting the motor in its plastic mounting and then securing this assembly into the nose. If you are not careful you could inadvertantly cause the motor wires to rub against the rotating motor outer case. Reinforced tape wrapped around the plastic motor mount sealing the open slot solved this for me. You'll understand all when you see the mount! I replaced my spar with a 'stock' C/F rod that (most) shops stock, no problems encountered.  Also beware of T-tail mount nylon/plastic 'nut', it doesn't have much foam to adhere to. If it pops away bye-bye tail and model! I fitted a thin plastic plate over the nut to 'spread' the load area. Stock motor is fair, (though great value for an of the shelf). Goes better on 3S but watch the Amps. Needs more distinct colour scheme, the decals as supplied are poor and don't show up well against the sky. 2.4 Radio (Spektrum 6200 Rx) fits in a treat with no problems. Flight Power 3S 2500mAh, Tornado 40A ESC (the later so far hasn't been a problem!). Experiment with the Graupner props too. I have a Multiplex 'Easy Glider' Electric which by comparrison is not quite as manoeuverable though has a more spirited climb, (than the stock E Junior), with a brushless in it. Summary - Easy build/assembly, great value for money considering. Now just waiting for some more good weather to put it through its paces further.

With all the ''Doom 'n Gloom'' in the news thanks to the 'great' media, it will be interesting to see what traders are around and if they have many customers! Personally I'll be off to Sinsheim, Germany in March where they know how to put on model shows/exhibtions in style. 5(FIVE!) halls the size of NEC, Birmingham, full of Planes, Trains, Boats 'n Cars plus a flying site adjacent to see the latest releases (assuming there are any - see para 1!). Wurst 'n Chips with Mayo and decent coffe as opposed to that pseudo American stuff Brits pay over-the-odds for! Toll! Toll!

At the silly originally prices (up to £39.99! !) Graupner obviously didn't shift many of their styrofoam profile models (FW190, Thunderbolt & Me110), so they chopped the price to more realistic levels. I picked up a FW190 for £14-00 in my local hobby shop though I see others advertising in the 'comics' are still asking £19-00 for these 'Schnitzel Fliers' as my German friends call them. (Our steaks come on those white foam trays from Sainsburys, their Schnitzel comes on the same from Aldi/Lidl). For £14-00 it's OK, nothing much to write home about though, as it falls between tasks. It is too heavy for 'easy' indoor flying in anything but a very large sports hall/hangar; too light to fly outside in anything but the lightest winds. It features aileron/elevator/throttle control so again is limited to those manoeuvres that can be acomplished without rudder, so no 3D! If you've a surplus set of radio gear knocking around the spares box, together with a small outrunner brushless and 800-1300 size LiPo pack, it's worth a punt but I quickly tired of it's limitations. Flight times of about 6-8mins at a push and restricted to weather conditions, I doubt these models will stay in the catalogue of big 'G' next season.

The Multiplex 'Peak Filter' (Part No. # 8 5180) is on page 77 of the MPX main catalogue with discription of use (the 'voltage collapse' bit is toward the end), or see this web page: http://www.modelmaniacsonline.co.uk/products.php?ProductID=5436&CatID=12&SubCatID=355 I don't disagree with all the valid points raised by 'Always Broke' however it makes me wonder about the many, many years 'we' were all (merrily) flying our 27 then 35 Meg sets using anonomous 4 x AA Rx pack NiCads, of less developed specification and without cycling and general TLC we all give our precious cells these days!