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Mike Bell

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Everything posted by Mike Bell

  1. Hi Tony Nice to see another one finished. I suppose with the benefit of hindsight you could have cut a hole in what was the firewall and have the battery enter so far into the motor box. Anyway you found a solution so thanks for sharing. Mike
  2. That looks great Nigel. I know what you mean about colour and scheme design. I reckon that's the hardest part of most builds. Mike
  3. I'm so pleased with the way this plane performs I've blinged it up a bit. There is a noticeable interaction between c of g location and reflex angle such that if you have a forward c of g with more reflex it will fly very slowly (but zooms if you open the throttle) but I prefer a slightly more rearward c of g with very little reflex which gives a more neutral feel. My latest experiment, as yet untried in flight, is to add another servo. This means I can plug it into the aileron output of the receiver and do away with the devious mixing between the rudder and aileron outputs which I previously had to do to get elevon control. It also means I can add rudder. Just waiting for a chance to try it out. Cheers Mike
  4. Hi Nigel, hopefully the picture below will help. There are four small squares of ply glued into the corners of the fuselage apertures. In the picture you can see both inside and outside views of how they fit. If you have any further questions, just shout up. Mike
  5. Hi Colin. If the c of g and wing incidence are correct then down thrust could help. If you open the throttle in level flight does it nose up then? If so it could be thrust line. Also try the dive test to confirm c of g ie from level flight nose down into a 45 degree dive and neutralise the controls. If it keeps going in the same direction without a pronounced climb or steepening of the dive, the c of g is probably good. Mike
  6. Any further progress Nigel, it's looking good.
  7. The local balsa wood diviners club converge on the source of a strong signal.
  8. My Liddle Gee indoor flyer was getting a bit tired (tired of banging into other planes, walls, floors etc) so I thought I would knock up a simple depron job to make use of the Spektrum micro gear and geared brushed motor. A flying wing design was the simplest option so after a couple of evenings I came up with the design below. It flies a treat, weighs around 30g ready to fly and is quite aerobatic. It is quite pitch sensitive but will loop very tightly and fly very slowly. It's always nice when a simple knock-up job works so well.
  9. Maiden flight over Christmas maybe, Nigel?
  10. Sorry for the slow response , my internet connection is down at home , I'm typing this from Costa. Measured my own wing and checked out the tip rib angle using trigonometry and it looks like the note on the plan should read 20mm under one tip. Not sure where the error crept in but I did proof read the plan for publication so sorry I missed it. So long as everything fits I wouldn't worry about it, the dihedral was only chosen for appearance , and to help a bit with knife edge coupling. Being a low wing rather than mid wing a bit extra should do no harm at all.
  11. Hi guys , I'm not at home just now but when I get back I'll check the dihedral thing out. I suspect the dihedral packing is meant to go under the tip ribs. I'll let you know . Mike
  12. Hi Nigel, good spot. My model had little or no chamfer on the wing trailing edge but I always wished I had just a bit more aileron movement so I put the extra shape on the plan. Because the wing trailing edge and aileron leading edge are quite deep it is better to share the shape between both to get a decent amount of movement without binding. Go with the plan. Mike
  13. This isn't a new model, in fact is a pretty old one but is new to me. It was designed and built by the late John Snowden of Hartlepool Club some 30 years ago. When he passed away recently his son David wanted the airframes to be used so I took this one on and got it ready for flight again. It's 49 inch span and powered by an OS Max 25. It hasn't flown again yet but it should soon and it will be good to honour the old boys memory when it does. There is a hand written note inside the fuz that records the maiden flight as being in March 1986. John was an ex fighter pilot who learned to fly on this type in Canada and in fact most of his models were of types he flew in his career.
  14. Hi Michael The tank is in line with the carb to avoid the sort of problems you mentioned . I didn't dril the holes first as i wanted to establish the engine mount first. Just my preference so go with what makes sense to you. Mike
  15. I would be interested to know how far members of other clubs have to walk from their car to the flying area. This is a bit of a talking point at my club where even some of the more able bodied members moan about a bit of a walk. So how many metres do you have to walk with your models and gear to the flying area? Less than 20m 20 to 100m 100 to 200m 200 to 500m More than 500m
  16. The torque spec isn't much different to a standard size servo and they have metal gears so they would probably do the job so long as you don't go ridiculously over the top on motor power.
  17. Hi Nigel A couple of pics below of servo orientation. I just used standard size Futaba 3001 types for mine. Mike
  18. Hi Anthony I'm afraid I still can't see your pictures which is a shame. Have a look at the tutorials for attaching pics and try again.
  19. Hi Gangster The wing jig should be positioned just in front of the 3/16" square rear spar notches in the wing ribs. Widest end of the jig to the wing tip. Mike
  20. Just measured the model again and it appears I built mine half an inch or so shorter than I drew it. The ruler in the pic below isn't dead in line (tried to take the pic and hold stuff in place at the same time) so I reckon mine is about 4 inches from firewall to spinner backplate. As you say a bit of variation here won't matter a monkeys if you pardon the pun. Just make it so it fits to your satisfaction. Hope this helps.
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