Glasshopper

I had assumed that the wheels would be pivoted at the front and fold back; it hadn't acccurred to me that they might fold forward. I'll have to think about that.

Thanks Dave I had considered that but I read somewhere that another modeller had discussed the issue with his lms and there seemed to be some doubt about whether the "locking mechanism" would take the strain...... I have never used retracts before so I can't comment.

Are there any retracts on the market that operate fore and aft rather than side to side in fighter fashion? I have seen nose wheel jobs with steering etc but not much else.

I use a combination of 3.5 bullets for esc/motor and xt60 for battery/esc/power connections Edited By Glasshopper on 11/08/2012 12:02:26

Thanks Richard I didn't know the difference! I thought all the two part mixes were basically the same although Now I think about it I have used araldite on polystyrene without a disaster.

I have just used some of Halford's Fastglass epoxy mix in close proximity to some expanded polystyrene and it just chewed it up! Is this a typical reaction when using epoxys with foam or does it depend on the type of resin and the type of foam?

I put both the brushless cans with magnets attached twice through the sonic cleaner and there are no apparent adverse effects. I was reminded that both these motors (turnigy) were on a twin that piled vertically from about 100ft at full revs. Surprisingly the motors showed no sign of mechanical damage but at home on the bench neither would function....just a mild chatter. I ran the esc,s with other motors and they were ok. A check of the motors showed that they each had at least one open circuit. I only mention this because a few of my fellow club members expressed some surprise that the crash would have caused one motor to burn out let alone two.

Thanks when my models hit the deck I usually have to root around in the sand and loam to find the motor. The grass, earth.sand never fail to penetrate the vent holes in my motors. I have even had a new motor from my LMS that would not turn because of some kind of deposit on the ends of the rotor. Anyhow I have a couple of casings that still have the magnets and I'll put them through and post a result. I hadn't thought about them. Have there been any postings about maintenance,repairing spindle shafts,bearings and dare I ask reversing the shaft drive? Some motors are easy some are just not made that way.

I have buried one or two brushless motors in my time and I have always dismantled them to clear out all the clag. I was recently presented with one of those small ultra sonic baths which are often used to clean jewellery etc. It occured to me that I could use it for my brushless motors. If I take care of the bearings in the process would there be any adverse consequences of using the bath? It would make a change from my rubber ducks !

Major...You mentioned Tauri have I missed something?

one of the best tips on this site for removing film before gluing is: lay some electrical insulating tape along the line of the material you want to remove start to peel back the covering starting with a small nick using your blade and then simply pull back the covering. It peels off straight along the tape without any more cutting.

This is the link I was trying to post! Should read instruction.s It doesn't matter what I do the link doesn't work....just go to Xplans and type in BAZZ BOMB  **LINK** Edited By Glasshopper on 12/05/2012 21:59:40 Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 13/05/2012 07:28:13

Bazz Bomb is listed in Xplans £12.50 plus p&P there's inflation for you!;  **LINK** Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 13/05/2012 07:27:28

My sharkface wings were polystyrene, profiled with sandpaper and covered with sheet balsa. I think the name "Bazz Bomb" was derived from the name of the designer..... Basil something or other. If BB can find his plan I would welcome a copy or w.h.y.

Hi I came late to this thread. I used to fly Sharkface long ago with wenmac 049etc. It had all the characteristics of a flying brick. In order to save props and motors from heavy landings we used to mount the motor on an aluminium plate with a lug projecting each side of the plate slghtly bent forward to form a kind of hook. We then inserted a dowel through the fuselage back about one inch from the front bulkhead and attached the motor plate to the dowel using rubber bands. It never failed and saved plenty of damage. I suppose I can see it now as a forerunner of our much more elegant prop saver. I graduated to "Bazz Bomb" which I think is still listed in the plans service

I find the easiest way to drive threaded rod home is simply enter the rod in a matching nut and use a nut driver to screw the nut and rod home. It only takes a twist or two to lock the nut and rod in the driver. A set of nut drivers for 2 mm and up only costs about £6 in Maplin and they saved me buying a myford lathe. A saving of several pounds but then I don,t fly I/c

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I can't remember whether I changed my card during a transaction or not. But I make sure the card I want to use is the default card on Paypal before I order goods.

Exchange rates for foreign purchases: see this site which says it all for buying abroad. I register my selected c/card which gives the best deal on foreign currency with paypal ; I do not let paypal do the conversion to £sterling but charge the US$ cost directly to my  c/c where the conversion is made for no cost at the market rate http://www.moneysavingexpert.com/travel/cheap-travel-money#halifax

Just seen this post Timbo! Can you solder ali tags? If so how?

Hi Active is there any special technique involved in soldering an aluminium tag? I have tried to put  a new lead on a lipo using my standard solder and flux and it just would not make.

Thanks Mark .You are right. I meant counter rotating propellers and I didn't know the difference. I know now.   This is an extract from wikipedia which seems to answer my question and confirms my thoughts.   " Counter-rotating propellers, are found on twin-, and multi-engine, propeller-driven aircraft and have propellers that spin in opposite directions. Generally, the propellers on both engines of most conventional twin-engined aircraft spin clockwise (as viewed from the the rear of the aircraft). Counter-rotating propellers generally spin clockwise on the left engine, and counter-clockwise on the right. The advantage of counter-rotating propellers is to balance out the effects of torque and p-factor, eliminating the problem of the critical engine."

contra rotating  props.................counter rotating propellors.........? Whatever next?

I am about to fit a pair of contra rotating 3 bladed props 8x4 to my twinstar. Does it make any difference which side the props are fitted?  Commonsense tells me to put the standard prop on the port side and the "contra" on the st'b'd. What is the consensus?         Don't ask me why!..........

thanks I'll go to Inwoods without my wallet!