Gary Clark 1

Thanks Nigel I agree and that's why the balsa sheet is there to connect the two but it would mean a re-design of the centre section too if I wanted to attach to just the mainspar so this seemed like the easiest option considering the centre section is complete already. I'm going to have a separate servo for each aileron and flap rather than bellcranks. I will probably incorporate an RDS to prevent pushrods sticking out below the wing but at 69" span the ailerons are quite thin so if that is too tight I'll go with option B and have a little pushrod sticking out below which won't be that noticeable. I've completed the sheeting over the front and aft sections of the wing so I'll lift it and start the aileron next Gary

No much done due to being away for a few days but managed to secure the end rib (1D) and added some balsa sheet as fillers to allow the dihedral brace to connect to the main spar (shown by red arrows below). you can see the size of the original brace (shown by blue lines) compared to what I have added. I've also moved it to behind the forward brace (green arrow) so i can connect it to the main spar The overall "structure" of the wing is done, just sheeting some of the top before lifting it off the board Gary

A little more done on the wing tonight. Cut the new ply brace and you can see how much I've extended it but all in front of the CG so not too much of a problem as far as weight is concerned. I love building BT aircraft but I do feel like a little reinforcing is required on his main spars. He was clearly a much better flyer than me as I reckon I'd snap the wings whilst having to use full back stick trying to recover from a very poorly flown barrel roll I also got the 1/16 shear webs done Finally tried the new dihedral brace with the centre section so that I could sort the final position of rib 1 which then lets me sort the first layer of the leading edge then sheet the forward "D" section to lock in the washout. I'll also sheet the area above the flap to add a little strength before I remove it and start the other wing. My plan is to get the other wing to this stage, try and sort the retracts, sort ailerons and flaps then finish sheeting. Retracts 🤢 Gary

Thanks Guys. I think I came to that conclusion last night Eric but it is odd that the width is good but just short. I decided, rightly or wrongly, that this amount across the chord of a spitfire wing won't make much of a difference. I also compared the inner rib with the centre section and they match so I decided not to cut new ribs. The error seems to be the plan and not the parts. I double checked and my ribs are the same as yours Gary, thanks. I got the bones of the stbd wing together and decided to do some gluing I tried to take a photo to show the combination of sliced spars and the notch to show that it's pretty strong I also add a gusset to certain areas to strengthen these parts despite not being called for in the plan. A little weight gain for a lot of added strength Good to be building again. Gary

Thanks Gary, I'll check tonight

Disappointing evening as I tried to dry fit everything as all the ribs are wrong. the front half is correct but they are all short and that means the shape at the trailing edge is slightly off It is easy to correct the outer ribs but the inner ones (1D to 5) will need re-cut I think. Really annoying when the laser cut parts don't match the plan. It shouldn't take long to do but I'd rather it was correct. That is tomorrows job now though Gary

I have a 1/4 scale Jerry Bates Moth Minor that it would be perfect in as it currently has no engine....

Ah nice Paul, you've done way better than I have then. I'll have a look at those for some of my other models then, thanks. Well if you do it first Jon I can decide if I like it or not 🤣 still have to decide what kind of paint to use also. Hi Grumpy. The notch then gets filled with the rib and glued so you end up with a thinner wing section with more balsa in both the spar and rib. The notch means there is more contact between the rib and spar too Gary

So I managed to get out and do some sanding but the light started to fade outside so I called it quits for the night as I wanted to sand outside to reduce dust in the garage. I decided to start putting the parts together dry for the starboard wing to see what I need to sort before I start gluing and I have a few changes to make from the plan. Below is the join at the centre section and I've decided to extend the 1/4" spar (that sits just in front of the main spar shown with the red arrow) by 1 rib and I'll also extend the ply dihedral brace to here also as this model has suffered wing folds on other builders As a not for people who are new to scale builds (or many other sport builds too) a thing that can be confusing is the little notches cut into the mainspar to fit the narrower ribs rather than thinning the spar along its length. Just thought I'd point it out I still have some ply doublers to cut and the ribs are about 1/8" short at the trailing edge so have to extend them or add a thicker trailing edge but worried about any extra weight behind the CG. Feels nice to be building again Gary

Bloody impressive as always Nick, top job

I committed a d bought the Electron ones as I've just got fed up of the cheap ones breaking after a few uses. I need to get started on the wing soon to just get on with it and stop thinking about it. Looking forward to having it done. Hi Dave. It's very satisfying repairing/correcting a build I think. It means it isn't in the loft mocking you anymore 🙂 Off to the garage so hopefully get the sanding complete tonight and ready to spray soon. Might put panel tape on first then spray to save a coat of primer, it all adds up. Once thats done, its onto the wing Gary

Hi All, Well after being away with work alot, a big chunk of life and every other excuse, I've finally got the Spit back on the build board. The temp is better to get on with priming so the first coat has been on and sanded with the first bits of filler added. Not much to show with photos but next job is more sanding and priming then panel lines before the final primer coat. As soon as that's done, it's on to the wing which I'm a little worried about as I truly hate fitting retracts 🤣 any help is welcome as I always find this hard no matter how often I do it! Gary

That's awesome guys, thanks for the help as always

I got this model from a fellow club member but he wasn't sure of its make. Its never been finished never mind flown but I would like to know a bit more about it. Its 55 inch span and has retracts fitted as well as an Irvine 46. Thanks in advance Gary

Very interesting David, looking forward to following along

Really impressive Nick. Your making great progress

Hi Laurent, No problem, I just need the exact diameter you would like and I will print. Let me know when you require them and PM me your adress. I will be using the 5 spoke but the options below Things like this make 3d printing excellent and much cheaper than getting custom hubs made as this way only used a few pence of filament Gary

Planning on making a Fiberglass mould of the area and make it like you would gear doors then add scale details with light balsa or chemiwood. The hook on the Seafire is like an airbrake with a hook on the end and attached just behind where the fairings end under the fuse. Shouldn't add too much weight and if I decide to make it function then I can put a small servo forward to control it. Still trying to find some detailed photos of it so that I can replicate so anyone can help me out I'd much appreciate it Gary

Ok I've made a decision with the finish of the spit. Way back when I first started this, my intention was to convert it to a Seafire Mk 1b which is essentially a Mk V spit with a hook. After shelfing this project then getting it out again, I was just going to complete it as a Mk 1a Spit but now I think I am going to go back to the Seafire option like below keeps it a bit unusual I think Gary

top and sides are fiberglassed with 24g cloth. I normally use the skinning epoxy from fighter aces and peel ply but I have an unopened pack of Z-Poxy that needs used up and it's too thick for peel ply I feel. It definitely takes longer to get on and will need a flow coat once dry but gets it used up. Also, the complex curves of a spit would be hard to peel ply as such a big area. I'd probably have to so sides separate. I quite enjoy this stage but its on the dining room table because of the temperature outside, the wife is delighted.... I will let it cure overnight and will try and get some primer on the 3d printed P-51 tonight. Looking forward to seeing how that comes out too Gary

Tail is complete and now the fuse will get fiberglassed. There are a few imperfections on the balsa and joint at the fin but will sort that properly once glassed. Gary

Thanks Gary, thats a great technique. I've used it quite a few times on sport models where the tail parts are flat sheet but gets a bit more difficult when there is an aerofoil shape like the scale spit. Also the fairing don't go all the way back, just around half way down the H stab. I have it shaped now but just letting some filler dry at the joint then I'll get a photo on. Needed to trim a small section from the bottom of the H stab right where the elevator control horn swings. This was a bit tricky with the fin post passing right behind it so make sure you give it plenty of room to move to ensure full deflection of the elevators. As soon as the baby goes to sleep I'll be back in the garage......

I made a balsa trim tab so that I could use that as a mould to make some litho ones but they are only 1/8th wide so was really tricky trying to get the litho to the correct shape without damaging the balsa and a limit to my skill/experience with shaping litho. Anything I have done is much bigger so I gave up and designed one to be 3d printed. Not the "purest" modelling technique but makes life so much easier! Here is what I designed I am currently printing a 43" wingspan P-51 from eclipson so that is taking up the printers time just now but these are very impressive. I will paint it too and you have the airframe of a small warbird for approx £15 in materials I'll put a photo up once it is finished but should be fun. Great thing is that if you break it.....print replacement bits for pennies Gary

I got some time in the garage again, feels like it has been forever! The fillet thing (very technical) that joins the fin and the fuse is my focus again. I wasn't happy with the shape of what I had put in previously so took it out and put some more scrap balsa in to build it up. After a rough sand to shape I am here At this stage I removed it again to hollow it out. I don't get too caught up in being turbo light at the back but no reason not to save a few grams here Still a lot of sanding to make it the correct shape and also blend into the fin and fuse but means I can fit the fin and epoxy it in place Note the little dehumidifier, I had to bring my balsa in to the house, as well as the fuse, to let it dry out a bit more as it wasn't sanding well. I only struggle with damp for a couple of months a year but it is a nightmare. I want this fuselage glassed asap to help prevent any warping whilst its cold out there. More sanding next then fit the control surface and their controls. I will remove them again then glass the fuselage before starting the wing. My Electron retracts have arrived so looking forward to getting that stage going Gary

Hi Everyone and welcome to Laurent! I am planning on 3D printing my wheel hubs as I have some scale ones designed and ready to go. I could easily print you a set and post them to you if you need them as it is pretty hard to find scale details like this nowadays I've not had time over the festive period to get out so no progress on mine but hopefully back to it in the next few days Gary