TIM Shaw
-
Posts
207 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Calendar
Downloads
Everything posted by TIM Shaw
-
No Brainer for me, separate servo in each wing is the way to go. Yes, routing the wires can be a bit fiddly, but then so is routing pushrods and bellcranks. I'd suggest using a sharpened brass tube to cut a route to the servo wells from the root, run a string or cable down the inside of the tube before you remove it, and use that to pull the cables through. Bear in mind you can put the servos at the extreme inboard end of the ailerons of you want, so a long cable run is not necessarily needed. I agree with Peter re snakes, I'd avoid them like the plague for this job.
-
Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
TIM Shaw replied to Paul Marsh's topic in All Things Model Flying
Kwick Fli 4 / 40 from Martyn Kinders Drawings OS 35AX might be slightly over-propped on a 10 x 7 APC but it flies nicely. U/C still to be fitted in the first pic, I cheated by making it a tail dragger (as a good Yorkshireman I object to buying 3 wheels when 2 will do....) but in hindsight it would look a lot better as a trike. Edited By TIM Shaw on 20/06/2017 16:14:14 -
-
-
Hi Chris I had the same issue, I was a JR man and flying a DSX9. I decided that a Taranis was the way to to go, just hoick the module out of the ageing DSX9, stick it in a Taranis, and problem solved. Wrong. First - there is no module in the DSX9, as I had become accustomed to from years of JR TXs. Second, I struggled mightily with the programming, and got very frustrated along the way, making stupid mistakes. (Ok - confession time, I guess I am at least a borderline Old Git, you might do better...) Third - when I did get a model flying, I hated the way the sticks felt, cheap and chunky. Now I have to say here that this was an early (batch 2 I think) Taranis, and later models are likely a lot better. But when my DSX9 finally let me down, I went out and bought a Hitec Aurora 9X which I am delighted with, and would recommend to anyone. But I still have a lot of models with DSM2 RXs in which I don't really want to retrofit, so I have revisited my Taranis, fitting the Hall effect gimbals, which absolutely transformed the feel, and I have that Orange module on order. Not sure yet which is the way to go, so basically, you pays your money, and you make a choice
-
OK Guys, maybe my bad. I'm also trying to help. but my FP is indeed from 1986, and I remember the silencer bolts being smaller on that engine than they were on the later Magnum Pros, Thunder Tiger Pros and OS FXs I progressed to, which, as reported, were M3.5. Nigel is quite right in that all the modern ones seem to be M3.5 so I might have it wrong. It has happened before, ......
-
FSRs yes - but I thought we were talking about a FP here...
-
Could you not remove the plastic arm, then warm it up a little - always found heat is the best way to remove gummed-up throttle barrels if WD 40 has failed. Is the thread not just M3?
-
I use multiple wraps of thin, tinned copper wire, bought for the purpose from Nexus many years ago. I think it is much easier to get a good binding with thinner wire, and that should lead to a neater job. The key is to properly clean your UC wire first, and use a good flux (even spirits of salts if you have access to it), and then apply plenty of heat with a big iron or blow torch.
-
Thanks for the advice John, sadly no Lasers for me. I am something of a diehard 2 stroke fan, with a liking for Thunder Tiger PRO and OS engines from a few years ag, although I confess I have a couple of the AXs which I like a lot. And I have the formula Irvine in stock.....
-
IITC, the instructions with some of my old diesels, (Oliver or PAW?) specifically stated something like "Clinically pure, first pressing Castor oil" for mixing your own fuel. I would imagine that is the sort of grade a pharmacist would have. But I agree, why would you want to? I'm still running Duraglow 10, which has a castor content, but only because I had about 3 gallons of it when I stopped flying IC a few years ago. Now I'm back into it I will be going for formula Irvine next, and then compare with Optifuel 10, unless I get sidetracked by something else at Weston Park. Edited By TIM Shaw on 14/06/2017 09:55:32
-
Ok GUys Thanks for all the help so far. Gimbals are now in and seem to be working, which has indeed transformed the feel of the Tx Almost ordered an Orange module too, but I see there are 2 listed on the HK site, one listed as JR/Turnigy compatible, the the other as "JR/Turnigy/Taranis compatible" Second one is slightly cheaper, so as a good Yorkshireman, would be my preference - any comments? Next, I am having another go at getting my head round Companion and all the computer stuff I nearly fried my brain with before. I'm still running Companion 2.0. something, and an upgrade is available. This upgrade is 2.2 - is this now stable, or do I need to find 2.19? Or have I confused myself already.... Cheers Tim
-
Use of ailerons for braking.
TIM Shaw replied to David Hall 9's topic in Gliders and Gliding - General Discussion
Posted by The Wright Stuff on 13/06/2017 14:05:32: Posted by TIM Shaw on 13/06/2017 12:59:40: I can see what you are saying and why you are saying it. It might well be that 30 or 45 degrees of up works well in the end. But I would not start there - 60% of the span and 30% of the chord is a large area. A faster glide can be controlled by putting the nose up a little with elevator - which is likely to be the intuitive response anyway. Total loss of effective aileron control is less pleasant - although I do note that the model has a healthy dose of dihedral, and Tom is absolutely right about the rudder... Absolutely agree with all that, and with Matty too. As regards rudder though - I'd use it all the time with that dihedral, not just for landing.... -
Use of ailerons for braking.
TIM Shaw replied to David Hall 9's topic in Gliders and Gliding - General Discussion
Not seen the model either, but just had a look at the specs and it seems to be a 2m electric Thermal Soarer, using Drela foils? If that is so its landing speed is likely to be pretty low already, so I doubt you need brakes as such. The problem with using outboard ailerons as flaps is that you induce wash-in when you deploy them, and since you are likely to be flying slowly anyway (you would want flaps to help you use light lift, so you are likely to be "scratching",) then you could very well induce a tip stall. So I would say I have never had any success using outboard ailerons as flaps. If you use them as spoilerons however - ie you pop them up, you kill the lift without increasing speed allowing you to lose height more quickly, and you induce wash-out, which improves any tip stalling tendencies it may have. However, unlike TWS I would say that in order for spoilerons to be really effective you need to pop them quite a long way up, and you would probably need a little elevator compensation mixed in. A small amount of reflex (maybe 1 to 2 mm) might give you a faster glide too, if for instance you were trying to fly out of sink, but be aware that any discontinuity in your trailing edge will cause drag and reduce overall efficiency. Small caveat here - my experience is with RG14 warm liners and HN foiled slopers, which are both intended to fly fast, and I haven't played with them on Drela foils. -
All looking really good Nigel. Do you have any tips for how to shape the tail ends of the longerons to get such a good fit? Something I've never managed in my life.....
-
Agreed Nigel - but building a kit built up wing is much easier than building oen from a plan, having cut all your own bits out to (more or less) the right size and shape first. Having said that, foam wings can be used on most planes if you want to go that way. Shouldn't we both be building more and typing less? - I know I should.....
-
I'd almost forgotten about the Gangster - I had a 42", a 52 and a 63 when I was starting out and the 63 was certainly a very nice model, as was the 52, but the 42 rather less so... To be fair, the Gangster 63 Lite build would be a better grounding than the Acrowot, as the Gangster is all built up while the Acrowot kit uses foam wings. The Magician is a tad smaller at 50" span, and in my view rather more twitchy than the 62" Acrowot and certainly the Gangster. Edited By TIM Shaw on 12/06/2017 14:39:52
-
Not sure about the elctrilfy but I can say I only really learned to fly with a Chris Foss Acrowot - low wing, pretty, and to my mind at least. still the best sport plane ever designed. In my view, if you have mastered the basics, you can't do better. BUT fgs, stick an IC in it and really experience what its all about..... JMTC Tim
-
All good advice here guys, but here's the thing. I know full well that selling my DSM RXs will not be very cost effective v buying Hitecs or FrSkys to replace them. Also, I always like to have a back up TX so if something goes wrong I can also fly something else. And, as a good Yorkshireman, I hate to spend more than I have to, and even worse, to think I have bought something I ain't going to get my moneys worth from. And, although it is indeed the 21st century, I kind of liked my JR gear... Decisions, decisions.....
-
Maybe.... Not yet sold on FrSky yet, and I do like my Aurora, for which I have already bought 6 RXs, the set up suits my ageing brain. But I don't like selling stuff - what if it goes wrong, and some of the installations in my hotter gliders are pretty tight already - much easier to find a way of talking to them in my mind. And for the record, I have 0, that is zero, zilch, nadder, BNF models - I fly to build, if I'm honest. Although it is true I fly a lot better than I build if I am honest, and I don't regard myself as a great flier either. And I don't really get telemetry. Yes, I love the idea that you can get a low RX battery warning, but the rest of the bleeps and warnings just annoy me tbh. I guess I really am turning into an old git..........
-
Thanks John - very helpful.Although those instructions don't reference the DSX9 they do refer to the 9303, which I think is the American reference. No range problems using the Spectrum bit? Leeds have them in stock at £20.......
-
Posted by Jon Harper - Laser Engines on 08/06/2017 15:33:15: I doubt its the exhaust causing it. YS engines put far more pressure into tanks and as long as they arent naff ones they dont tend to explode very often. Only once, usually.... I'd be checking the sharp edges of your vent pipes aren't rubbing against it, or another mechanical issue. I would have thought that if the engine achieves full power and throttles OK its unlikely to be an over-pressure issue.
-
Hi Guys I bought my Taranis some time ago, I think one of the second batch T9 got in, with a view to replacing my ageing JR DSX9 and thinking I could simply remove the module from the DSX9 and stick in the Taranis slot, thinking the DSX9 would have the same removable modules my earlier JR TXs had, right from X347 up to PCM9X2. But of course - it doesn't! DSX9 has a moulded in block instead.. I admit I lost some interest at that point, particularly as I also struggled to get my head round the programming, although I did manage to program a Solius and an Erwin eventually. However, when I flew the Solius I found I hated the way the sticks felt, and lost interest again, so I continued to use my now very elderly DSX9. Eventually of course, it let me down, I think due to a broken antenna wire, and it seems I can't source a replacement antenna for it, so I bought a Hitec Aurora 9X and have flown very happily with that for the last 6 months or so. Then I saw the Hall effect M9 sticks were available for the Taranis so nipped over to T9 for a feel, and was very happy with what I found, so now my Taranis has these gimbals in and feels much nicer, so I am wanting to try again to use it instead of my now dead DSX9 So far as I can see, I have 2 options. Either buy an DSM2 module from Orange, or build my own. I like to build models, but I really don't like to mess with the magic smoke - I've released way too much of it in the past, so the question I guess I am finally asking is - is that Orange module a sensible way forward to let me use the large number of Sectrum type RXs I have? Thanks in anticipation
-
I thought that too John - bought a couple of those a few years ago and converted one to wingeron, 2 channel R/C for use on the slope, following Sensible Nicks thread in the US place. But the one at Lidl is quite a bit bigger and thinner in the tail boom. At £8 it would be a fun project to try the same way I guess, but I've been there and have way too many projects on the go to start another....
-
Posted by Martin Harris on 06/06/2017 22:56:14: I keep a bicycle pump in my car which I use to blast air through dirty carbs - apply to the fuel inlet...throttle wide open and give it a good blast both with the needle open to a rich setting and completely removed. The technique has got many clubmates' recalcitrant engines running after a winter break! Also, ensure that fuel syphons freely from the end of the pipe while you have it removed - this should confirm that the delivery pipe is clear and the vent/pressure line is clear. Awesome ! Wish I'd thought of that!
