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Graham Moore 1

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Everything posted by Graham Moore 1

  1. Just started building Babybolt as a lockdown project. One thing that is concerning me for the future is what is the best way to achieve the chequred pattern on the cowl? any ideas would be most welcome.
  2. I used small pinned hinges on mine and secured them with epoxy. The precautions that you have to take is to coat the working part of the hinge with a thin coating of silicone grease and put a few extra holes through the portion that goes into the wing. This stops the hinge being glued up tight (I've only done it once) whilst the extra holes ensure the glue keys across the joint.
  3. Hi Steve, I had exactly the same problem re the battery position/c of g. I did the same as you with a bit of blue foam in the nose for positioning. As I did not think that I would get the battery out again if I used Velcro I shaped a piece of foam to fit the back of the battery then made a locking plate to hold it with a little bit of pressure. I have only bench run it at present as we have had a few problems with our field but the results look good, 390 watts and a 6 min run (mixed throttle settings). Only one problem the LIPo was a little warm when I took it out so I am wondering about a couple of air intake holes in the nose. Has anyone else experienced warm battery? Graham
  4. Hi All, Finished my Hawker Hunter this week. Just need to get flying now.
  5. Thanks for that Gary, it has put my mind at rest. Thanks for the tip re shaping, I think I will put some soft pencil marks along the centre of the 2.5 mm top and bottom side sheeting to act as a guide, ie when it's gone stop. Graham
  6. Hi Gary, Your Hunter is looking good. I have made the wing and have just got to the stage of sheeting the top and bottom sides of my Hunter. They are drying now. The next operation as far as the RCM&E article reads is to sheet the top and bottom with the 5 mm. I am a bit concerned about doing this now as further on in the artical, after shaping the fuselage it says to fit the snakes. I can't imagine this to be a very easy procedure and wondered if these should be fitted now but not glued so as to allow them to be pulled back slightly during fuselage shaping. Any thoughts on the subject would be most welcome. Graham
  7. Thanks for that Tim. I thought that would be the case but did not wish to tempt the smoke.
  8. Is there anybody out there who can help me with this question? I have a JP Power panel on my field box with a 12v Pb gell battery. Can I charge the said battery through the starter banana plug sockets or will this fry some of the circuits in the panel. I would like to do it this way if possible as I think that repeated removal and refitting of the 4.8 faston connectors at the battery will shorten their life.
  9. Thanks for the prompt reply. I think the answer must be the resin. I will try again with epoxy. Regards Graham
  10. Hi Danny, I have not been able to do much on the Cub since Xmas due to another couple of problems I have had. Work continues now and there is not much more to do. I am struggling a bit with the cowl. I made the pattern out of "blue foam" but it must have been the wrong type as the resin melted it. Managed to resurrect it with some filler and toi re glass it but I have a lot of grinding to do on the inner surface to get to the required thickness and lose some weight. What is the spec and supplier of the correct foam? Regards Graham
  11. Hi Danny, Thanks for your quick response. I am glad only a couple of mm is needed as I am building mine with "plug" in wings and I will be able to keep the pins horizontal, much easier. What first attracted me to the Cub apart from the appearance was the method of construction of the ribs and flying surfaces. So far this is going well. The cowl will be interesting as I have never attempted a fiberglass job before. If I have any problems I will be in touch. Regards Graham
  12. Hi Danny, I really enjoyed your artical when it came out and kept it for a future build. I have now started the build and would like to know what dihedral you used for rudder/elevator only control. Regards Graham Moore
  13. Thanks for that Mike. Over the weekend I made a plug and am trying to reform a M&S salad bowl, I am on attempt 3. If this fails I will go for the Acro Wot. Good luck with the swimming lessons. Graham
  14. My Hanger Monkey build is progressing nicely. The wing is complete and the fuselage is nearly ready for covering. Looking forward I need a canopy. I looked on Vortex Vacform's site and thought either the Aero Wat or the North American Mustang could be made to fit. Can anyone confirm or offer better suggestions. Graham
  15. Wow! Overwhelmed by your kind responses. Thank you all very much. I have a lot to think about and want to get Hanger Monkey finished. I am getting a real kick out of building it and for me that is the way to go rather than ARTF. I will provide build updates at a later date. Thanks again, Graham
  16. Hi everyone. I am a recently retired mechanical engineer (metal bashing both cnc and hand). In my youth, early 60's I used to fly control line on Wormwood Scrubs Common, behind the prison. I use to go to Jones's Model Shop in Turnham Green and can remember longing for the big rc models I had seen in the Keil Kraft catalogue but could not afford on pocket money (cue violins). Now retired with a little more disposable cash I am getting into rc. I have started a plan build of the Hanger Monkey from RCM&E and will be building a trainer after that. Then I intend to join the Exeter club and learn to fly. One thing that I would like so help with is the choice of a plan for a suitable trainer. I have an SC46 glow motor and Futaba radio gear and would really appreciate some help with the choice of plan. Thanks Graham
  17. Thanks for that Mike. I am new to this forum stuff and noticed your other replies a couple of days after my posting. The build has been held up for a couple of days whilst I tested and ran in my new SC46. Thanks again. Graham
  18. Hi Mike, I am also building Hanger Monkey. I've not done anything like this for over 40 years. This one appealed as it is so much like the models from the KK catalogues from the early 60s. It is all coming back to me but I am struggling with the dihedral. It indicates on the plan that the 20mm for each wing panel is under the LE at the tip rib, should this not be under the main spar at the tip rib.
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