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Aldo Rebsamen

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Everything posted by Aldo Rebsamen

  1. Hello Jon, that sounds good. Here is the plan: Regards Aldo How much is the weight of the 160i ?
  2. Hello dear User of the inline 160 I like the inline 160 and its sound. It makes me thinking of building a Yak3 from Jerry Bates plans. The small one. I still have a shortkit. Scale: 1/5.3Wingspan: 68”Length: 63.5”Weight: 15 – 18 lbsEngine Size: 1.08 – 1.4 2-Stroke Do you think the 160 inline will be OK for the Yak? Or ist it too heavy for the small wing? Therefore a 155 would be the better choice. Are there any adapters for the propeller-shaft available? So the engine can move further inside the cowl. Thanks for your advice. Aldo Makeover of a Seagull Yak3u 63" is nearing completion. Power will be a Laser 150 of older design.
  3. Hello, This nice thread has become a bit quiet. Here some pictures of a Yak-makeover with a Laser 150. The Laser is new but was sitting in the box for about 20 years. Time to finish the Yak. Regards Aldo
  4. Hi Jon, thanks for explanation. Great expertise as always. Regards Aldo
  5. Hi Jon On the full scale Zlin 526with its inline engine one can see that the airintake is on the hot side of the engine and the outlet is on the cold side. Why do you recommend it on the 200twin the other way round. Is it because of the curburators must be on the high pressure side and the temperture regime in the small cylinders, compared the the full scale, is of no concern. Thanks for your explanation. Regards Aldo
  6. Hello Erfolg Great looking Gee Bee. I wish you a good maiden-flight. Regards Aldo
  7. Hi Erfolg, My struts are mounted as follwing: - short pieces of the next larger tubing are glued on to wing. - the struts feed in there, finally some wrap of textiltape will prevent rattling. - the struts are then attached to fuse with one screw each. For LIPO there could be a possiblity to make a hatch on the bottom-cover of engine compartment, just forward of the wing there the big balsablock is. Regards Aldo
  8. Hi Erfolg, nice idea to mount the fairings with a foam. I am working on fairings as well. Prominent Gee Bee feature. I did lengthen the landing gear a bit. Now the Gee Bee sits more scale. With the big ring on the cowl the gear supplied just did not look right on the model E. I wish you and your family a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Regards Aldo Edited By Aldo Rebsamen on 22/12/2017 22:06:53
  9. Thanks for the nice words. Still some details to make before painting. And the Gee Bee has to share building time with a glider, made by an Italien designer, Andrea Barborini: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkDXvyKE1qI plenty fast ! Aldo  btw: nitro-dope is not fuel-proof. You need to do a final paint with some fuel-proof stuff.    Edited By Aldo Rebsamen on 09/12/2017 23:09:42
  10. Hello Jon, earlier in this thread there was some discussion about larger mufflers. Since we also have noise problems, I would love to see some way to reduce noise. Do you have some bigger mufflers in the pipeline, or does it not help? Running older 150, 200v and 360v. Thanks for doing these great engines, Aldo
  11. Hello "Erfolg" How is your Gee Bee doing? Here some pictures of my Model E. Regards Aldo Edited By Aldo Rebsamen on 09/12/2017 21:03:57
  12. Hello "Erfolg" I normally brush the woven covering with "Nitro-Spannlack" before painting (sorry no idea how its called in English). This gives the covering the drum-effect since it does shrink the woven stuff. About colors. Just do it to your taste. No One has proof of the real blue and cream. Bahama Blue and Tuscon Creame, sounds good but the painters have no clue about it. So its up to your liking. And the Gee Bee will have your personal signature, very good! Regards Aldo Edited By Aldo Rebsamen on 25/10/2017 21:26:19
  13. Hi, Thanks for compliment. Yours will become the same nice Gee Bee. Please use "low bounce wheels" because undercarrige is rigid. Otherwise the 3mm maingear-wire bends each landing since the Gee Bee is about 3kg. I am building the Model E from coverite-kit and I changed main wire to 4mm and rear wire 2.5mm got a bend for some spring movement. About colors. I tried to match the Blue towards the Decals. Although I think it is darker than the original Gee Bee Blue. But i like it better as it matches more. The Creme is white with yellow and some red until it looked like the picture on the box. Yes I do live south of Germany in Switzerland, close to Lake Constance. little Gee Bee on flying field last Friday. Aldo
  14. Hello, here is how i did the wheel-pants. All attached with springs and hold together with a spring and rubber-band. If i would do it again, i would move forward spring attachment further towards leading edge. It has lasted many landings on gras. Aldo Edited By Aldo Rebsamen on 26/09/2017 21:41:33
  15. Hi, nice to see that Henry Haffkes designs are still liked. The Gee Bee is a good flyer. Although a bit havy. Mine is powered by an OS FS70 Surpass and is quite fast. Built in 1989 and i still fly it. But it was not a 10 Hours build Regards Aldo.
  16. Hi, nice to see a Coverite build of the Gee Bee Model D. I did one in 1989 and i still fly it. Great flyer although a bit havy. Will follow your build. Regards, Aldo I have no clue how to insert a picture, but you can see my Gee Bee in RC-Network thread in post #2. http://www.rc-network.de/forum/showthread.php/332624-GeeBee-Model-D?highlight=gee+bee+coverite
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