Peter Miller

Maybe I qualify at 71, I hope not.   My own definition would be one of the older members who is always talking about it but never builds model or flies one.   As for "fart", If the BBC can allow it in sensible programs before the watershed who can object. And I am not talking about some of their overpaid cretinous presenters who lack two brain cells to rub together to strike a spark of intelligence.

Yes, as I said, the first time was just watering eyes, then a bit more extreme, then sore sinus, then the one eye and finally both eyes.   The glue was for assembling the plastic cowls and as each time was quite a while apart and I worked with solvents at work I didn't make the connection until the last time when I was no longer working at the factory.   Lots of people get reactcions to CA. As I said, odourless CA does not have any effect on me but I use very little of it anyway.

I developed an allergy to the liquid glue that came in PIlot kits back in the 80s. Over a few models it built up from dripping tear ducts to total blindness.. It took me some time to connect the two.   The second from last time one eye was affected. I had to take my mother to the eye clinic at the local hospital as she had had a cateract operation. My right eye was so bad the specialist called me in on the spot and sent me for an X-ray. Anyone who knows about the NHS will know how bad it must have been.     It was really terrible, the last time both my eyeballs looked like lumps of mince and the eyes swelled up so they  were closed tight shut.   I was blind for three days before the swelling started to go down. Man, that was frightening! Luckily there was no permanent damage.   On CA, I can use odourless CA but not the normal stuff.

I like Ebay, if you know what you are doing and read the adverts carefully you can find some real bargains.   David, you would have done better to tell Norton about the Pirate copy. They have the muscle to make things happen.

It looks super.Glad you had such a good test session. Another satisfied customer.   After weeks of bad weather I was able to test two new models today. No photos, too cloudy.

I would suggest kits, not ARTFs.They are the coming thing!   Aerobatic types and "based on" racing planes seem popular. But not a rehash of the same old things, i.e. Extras and Edges.  

I think the book that you want is Martyn Pressnell "Aerofoils for Aeromodellers. Lots of info and lots of pages of assorted airfoils in vaious sizes.   Very rare now. I have a copy with one or two pages of airfoils missing.

Have fun

The tailplane should be lined up along the top line of the fuselage side.   Ideally the tailplane and wing should be at the same angle. If anything else the front of the wing should be higher.   The engine should be straight in line with the top of the fuselage or in line with the tailplane.  

I think you will find that the Boomerang is easier to fly because it is more stable and will try to recover from strange positions by its self.   The Katana will stay in any position it is in and you have to revover it yourself.   Add to that that orientation is not as easy once the model is in a strange position and you could have problems.   Having said all that, it depends on how competent you are with the Boomerang. If you can fly that solo and do basic aerobatics with it, then you probably can fly the Katana on reduced throws BUT I would have someone standing by with a buddy box for the first flights

Try to get hold of Kermode's "The Mechanics of Flight." This is a very old book, pre war, but is so good that it is still in print with updates. It covers all you need to know with the maths you need."   Kermode's "Flight without Formulae is the same book without the maths. THat is the one I have.

Are you sure that it is 5 mm? I ask because if the plan has been followed I can't see how that much error could have crept in.   As I said. The measurements are taken from the centre of curvature of the leading edge and the tailing edge. I push pins in right on the front of the LE. Same at the tail. All with the ailerons and elevators in neutral.   Still, if you go to positive incidence it will still be better than the negative incidence that you have now.    

Well Done. Drop the trailing edge by that amount. Mark 3 mm down from the wing seat at the trailing edge then using a straight edge, draw a line from the curved part of the wing seat back to that line and trim the wood away.   You can then bolt the wing down at its new angle. The cockpit can be raised at the rear by cutting along above the wing and fitting a thin wedge of wood in the gap.   You find that the model has been transformed.   I found the same problem with mine and I modified it as described and this did correct the drawing before sending it in.

I said, place the model on a flat surface. This could be a table, the floor, i.e, a flat surface.   Measure from the points I described to the table, floor or what ever the model is standing on.  

The simple answer is acetone. It removes dried CA easily but doesn not harm covering. Buy small bottles from any chemist for  95p.   I keep a 500 mil bottle but you can't buy large bottles now. Most fibreglass manufacturing places will keep large amounts and will often sell you a bottle full.   I believe that nail varnish remover is really just acetone.

I would definately lower the trailing edge of the wing in that case.  It is quite a simple job.   You can check this out in the following way. Set the model up on a flat surface so that the tailplane is level, set the elevators in line with the tailplane and measure from the T/P leading adge and elevator trailing edge to the surface. When the measurement is the same measure the leading edge of the wing and trailing edge.   To measure the wing stick a pin into centre of the curvature of the leading edge, ie.e the maximum front of the leading edge.   Now measure again as with the tail plane. The measurement must be the same or slightyly more at the leading edge.   IT wouls be a good ide to sight up the engine and see that it is also lever. Set the prop vertical, it shgould be at 90 degrees to the surface.   Letme know hwo you get on with this rigging check.   You will get a small step at the rear of thecockpit but that is worth improving the model.

On Miss Demeanor.   Either add a bit of nose weight or, if the CG is on the mark or foward try this.   Trim the wing seat so that the trailing edge of the wing is 1/16" inch lower. It is possible that the wing is slightly at negative incidence. I had this problem but did alter the drawings to allow for this.   Ivan. I will keep cool. just study the plans and instructions carefully and follow them  

It says build one wing complete which would include an R-1 then join it to the other wing still on the board and then slide R-1 up to it.   Never mind. IT is all part of the learning curve.   I don't think it will make much difference really.

I have only one comment to make. Always read the instructions and follow them step by step.   THis is why I spend hours writing them.

Which branch of Hobbystores????   Yes, you build one wing complete with all sheet and then when you join it to the half built wing you butt the second R-1 up to it as you joint the wings, this ensures that the two ribs fit perfectly. It does say this in the instructions.   Not quite sure what you rpoblem is with the aileron ribs. You lay the whole wing down over the lower sheet so the aileron ribss line up with the rest of the ribs as shown on the plan.   You can always draw small extension lines from the ribs so you can see the position clearly. I normally do this on my plans but didn't on this one.

WHich Hobby stores do you go to?   The SLEC wood is the best qualiity I know off and they do select it carefully for you.    

Yes, That was the  CAP plan. The Feugray was more recent and uses a similar section.   Peter, sounds more like  Blue Peter designs    

Always glad to help.   The day you fly your first own design will give you the biggest boost ever.  

IT occurs to me that one quick and simple answer would be to use the wing section from the Feugray or CAP 21 plans. I have no objection.