Peter Miller

The idle screw has a rubber "O" ring on it, maybe that needs replacing. Another possibility is an airleak round one of the carb joints, where the manifild goes into the carb or joins the head. Run the engine slowly and pour fuel over the joints, if there is a leak the engine will run rich for a moment. Saito were very prone to this fault , never had it on an SC but it is possible. My main needle is 1 1/4 turns open. Can't get at the idle one at the moment.

If you want to see a really neat and easy way of fixing interplane struts on a full size aircraft and SOOOOO easy to duplicate on a model, go and look at Miller's Tales in the current AMI (August issue)

This Sunday Aldi are doing their soldering iron set, one 75 watt, one small 25 watt, solder, flux and desoldering braid in a carry case. £4.99. I bought on last time round and it is good. the bit does wear quite fast but you can buy better quality replacement bits later. Go to http://uk.aldi.com/ and check it out.

To go back to the early stages of this thread and to make a comment that I did in another. The BMFA does have an ARTF fault reporting system, you can send in a report and they will take it up with the importer/manufacturer. I have done this on behalf of another member and got some (not particularly satisfactory)feed back from the importer so I know it got back to them. A few years ago one of our club members had a trainer for their son, the wing failed and we can bear witness that it had not been over stressed. Ripmax replaced it at once, the replacement wing failed on the first flight, spars like Elderberry pith, and they replaced it again. THis time with a proper kit at the owner's request so he could see the quality of the wood. I am not a legal expert but I feel that one should not have to inspect the parts that come ready assembled. One should only be liable for the assembly that is detailed in the instructions.

I found some 2" wide, clear tape, I think it was called "All Weather Tape" but at least that was on the packet, in my local Focus. I am sure that other places stock it too. It looks a bit misty but would be nearly invisible on a model. I used it to repair a cracked window in a conservatory, on both sides, it is still there after a full year. Magic Tape will be in Smiths or any stationers. IT is good too.

I would say that the chairman was the muppet, not you.

Try The Palm Z, That is terrific.

I have just been asked where to get the canopy for my CAP 21. I did put all the addresses and telephone numbers etc for the various items at the end of the text of the article Please ask the editor why they were not included in the article in the magazine. Anyway, Here they are again folks. Photosets from Practical Scale: Check out This website for sets of pictures: http://www.toni-clark.com/english/modelle/cap21/cap_foto.htm or Email [email protected]: Canopy from Vortex-Vacform at: http://www.vortex-vacforms.co.uk or phone 01162 207080 after 6 pm Vinyl lettering: Email: Nick Attridge on [email protected] or check out eBay as they may be listed there after the plan comes out.

Just to date me, The last one I was really familiar with was ASAP.

Just a tip to Lee and anyone else. I use a Schumacher GlowStick. This is a little black box used by the car boys. You fit it onto a 6 cell Ni-Cad or NMH and it provides 2 volts for the plug. I charge mine about once a year. It will still go flat but you only have that possible problem once in months.

Chris thanks. You see, you learn something new every day

Funny! Everyone in the club is right handed but we all fly Mode 2. In other words, sorry but that is Codswallop!

David, Pity, that was a good laugh but I did extract the...er... Michael in an email to Alice. Tony What the heck does ROFLMAO stand for? I am not into texting!

I would NEVER tell anyone to go electric.

Hey Folks go and look at this website for a good chuckle. There is a "Tiger Moth" model, on ly trouble is that it is a Beech 17 "Stagger wing" Any biplane less like a Tiger Moth I have yet to see

When I learned to fly R/C in about 75 everyone was scared of having to fly their first low wing model. We got really good with the high wing models first. When I flew mine, a Cambria Instructor, I suddenly wondered what all the fuss was about it was so easy but orientation was still took some getting used to.

Personally I don't think that the CAP would be that good with a 30 FS, it needs more power, Go with a 32 two stroke. If you want to use a .30 FS in a really nice model look on next months RCMW (I am sorry about that but...) My Fournier is ideal. I always knew that there was a good reason for not getting married.

The Sig Astrohog has the tailplane in a different location to the original one. The Sig one is on top of the fuselage, the original RCM&E plan will have it on the bottom of the fuselage. Flair alos made an Astrohog kit.

I know how to spell pigeon but only because I fly an Easy Pigeon.

I only keep useful stuff. If I decided that it isn't going to be useful and throw it away I need it two days later.

Probably my building board.

We still remember with amusement a club member who learned on Mode 2, throttle left, elevator right. He decided that the other way was better and so changed over. All went well until he decided to do an overshoot and slammed the throttle forward, only snag was...it was now the elevator. He went back to Mode 2 in a hurry, once he had built a new model that is.

Hi Greg, To answer you last question, I was trying to teach someone who suffered from Parkinson's Disease. He had an Irvine Tutor 40 and I can tell you that that was stressed to incredible loads when I would have to pull it out of verticle dives from 0 feet. It never failed in the air. I have just assembled a Jumper 25, (Baby Arising Star) and had to add 6 ounces of lead in the nose. From the flying side I doubt if you could tell any difference between any of them. And if you are wondering about all the guff about modes going on, Find out what the club you are joining use and buy that because that way they can fly your model.

I ahve seen several modellers who just could not master landings, they always seemed to get mixed up in the last few yards and crash. This included the modern high wing trainer. I usually gave them a few flights on a vintage style model in calm weather. That sorted them out and they never looked back. I had one person who had a Sid Miller (no relation)) Rhoma. A 50s single channel R/C model high wing auto stable model. He had three channels in it. He never crashed once and we didn't have buddy box in those days.

Hi Greg. YOu have had a lot of good advice above but I thought that I would add a couple of things. Your little Cub should be quite good but only for really calm weather, those calm Summer evenings. You could fly that on a big empty field just to get the feel of it. Just accept the fact that you may splatter it. I bought one of the smaller £20 versions (Bang, bang rudder, motor on or off) and it flew very well until I tried to "improve" the "aerobatic" performance. Clubs are great for getting advice but listen to advice from several people, not everyone has the same ideas. Have FUN!