Peter Miller

I have to say that Spanish is a far simpler language than English. You spell it as you pronounce it. Never mind, in a few years everything will be written in text message English, Thank God I won't be around then, or I hope not. At least my dyslexic word processors have a spell checker! Peter PS David, there are three more plans on various magazine files waiting to be published, one in the August RCM&E. I must get on with the next plan quickly or RCM&E won't have one on file.

My last job before retirement was as technician in the CDT department of an upper school. Many of the pupils couldn't spell, didn't use punctuation and had no idea of grammar. E.g. Lathe spelled four different ways in one short essay. Some of their stuff was unintelligible I had a stand up argument with the head of English. I told him all the above and he said "That doesn't matter so long as they can express themselves." I maintain that you cannot express yourself clearly unless you have a reasonable command of the English language and its correct usage. At the time of the argument kids were lying round on the floor in small groups making stupid noises into tape recorders. Not sure how that improved their English.

Very few modern engines need much "running in" A tankful on a rich setting on the ground and then run it a bit rich in the air for a few flights. Flying figure eights which loads and unloads the engine are good. ABC engines need to be run with short bursts at high speed. IF you run them slow and rich they don't expand as designed and so don't bed down properly. Again this doesn't take long. Basically, read the manufacturers instructions. In the old days (Late 40s early 50s )some engines needed hours on the bench to free up, especially diesels. Another thing which is important, never run an engine at the very peak speed, it is on the edge of running lean. Always bring it up to peak rpm and then back off the needle so you hear a slight rpm drop. The engine will still give plenty power but will last longer and if it does lean out it won't cook. Finally, once it is set correctly DON'T twiddle with the needles. A properly set engine will run on the same setting for flying session after flying session. You might need a click on the main needle with major changes in weather.

Fuels can deteriorate. If left open they can absorb moisture and the Nitromethane and methanol can evaporate. The worst example I saw was a model which refused to run on the field, it would start but was really sick, no power, rough and would stop after a few moments. The owner checked everything then someone gave him af fresh tankful of fuel, problem solved. I have only seen this once in many years though but diesle fuel could lose its ether very quickly.

Hi Glen You did very well, I wrecked five control liners before I managed a lap. I did have two dissadvantages, I was trying to teach myself and they were small models on short lines (see above) Now I always recommend a big model. I have taught people to fly easily with a big 35 powered stunter.

You soon stop getting dizzy. Longer lines on bigger models are much better. Also if you can stunt you can stop turning for a bit. We used to dread seing people turn up after Chruistmas with a KK Huricane, That thing wizzing round on 20 ft lines could make the most experienced pilot dizzy. A club mmeber recently bought one to recreate his first model. It was hilarious when he staggered out of the circle.

GWS Rxs need a Futaba crystal. Going back about 25 years it was always recomended that one did not mix brands. now we are lucky that they all seem to work well

I wonder what is the average percentage of really active members that there are in most clubs. We have a small club but only the same 47% turn out week after week if it is at all flyable. 24% come if a) the wind is under 10 mph and b) the field in use is less that ten miles from their home. 24% are restricted severely by WAGS to the extent that we see them about once a year and 5% never come for some other reason(Lost interest). Considering that we have allocated frequencies with NO duplicates so unlimted flying is possible this is a bit sad. Does your club have better attendance figures

Now you are talking! Control liners don't have to be any noisier than R/C and the noise footprint is much, much lower because the models are close to the ground and trees act as sound baffles. The other big advantage is that you only have to walk 60 feet to the crash site.

Forget Solar power. All the pollutants in the atmosphere will stop the sunlight getting through. Now hot air engines do seem to have great potential from what I see around here. Who can I wind up to morrow?

If you subscribe you get the magazine a few days before they are on the news stands which means that you get first crack at the classifieds. Hi David, Have you remembered to renew my sub yet?

I am so glad to know that Nige is so concerned about the environment. Here is someone who obviously would never go abroad for their holidays and drives the most economical car possible. Actually one of the best forms of protecting the environment would be if everyone refused to buy anything made in the far East. PLEASE, Don't bring environmental issues into model engines, it is rediculous.and anyone who flies on holiday should remember that a full size jet engine burns 700 gallons and hour on an open bonfire so they should really shut up about the environment. It would in fact be more environmentally friendly if every family on a plane drove their cars to the Costa Del Sol rather than fly. I live under the flight path into Stanstead so my little glow engines won't make the slightest difference. No. I am not an environmental nut, I won't be around that long and couldn't care less.

Sorry, I forgot one, The Kirby Motor Tutor published in FSM.

No, I am definately NOT one of the "Them and Us " brigade. and for proof of that, Just look back at Easter Eagle plans published in UK and Easter Eagle Mk two in the USA, Ohmsick Angel published in the USA and more recently, Wattsdog in RCM&E.

Andrew, Did you check the tube INSIDE the tan for holes?

Just a thought on another aspect. Nige says that everyone turns out to watch a steam train. When diesel engines are as rare as steam is now, would as many tirn out to watch a diesel loco go past? And this leads me to my main thought, model engine collecting is a big thing, even relatively modern engines becoming collectors items, Somehow I very much doubt is there will be many serious collectors of electric motors.

I Spoke to Helgar racing when I bought my set and they said that they were testing a chanrger then, should be available by now.

If the engine cuts after some time check the clunk tube, it can get nicked when assembling the tank and then as the fuel in the tank goes down it exposes the tube close to the tank bung and allows air through. I use Duraglow 10 on everything. I also use Taylor standard long reach plugs on everything and they work perfectly. Oh, I also use SC engines almost exclusively unless I can get a bargain on Ebay.

I thought I was doing well. Only got about twelve. Rhapsody, ) Symphony, ) Marauder, ) Bonzo, ) Cap 21 ) Fournier RF7 (sic) )All ODs Li'l Mustang ) Toot Sweet ) Little Bandit ) Deja Vu (35 powered C/L stunt) Stupid Cupid (15 C/L stunt) ) and an Easy Pigeon but ARTFs count Plus a few without engines and radios.

With regard toCG positions. Normal full sie aircraft CGs tend to be about 25%. I am currently designing a scale model from the origianl construction drawings, this is a two seat homebuilt. The CG range for the full size is quoted at 19 to 25%. On full size aircraft the CG is just behind the main wheels on a tail drager or just in front for a trike. One figure given is tohave the aircraft level and draw a vertical line from the point of contatc of the wheels, then draw a line at 60 degrees back from that for a tail dragger. The CG shold be on or close to that line. NOTE that on a high wing aircraft the CG will NOT be up at the wing but much lower down. I was working on a Varsity (Trike undercarriage) once which was up on jacks The underwing jacks were just about on the whel contact line. Someone had forgotten to place the tail trestle and when one of the props was removed the aircraft started to rock back and the nose wheel came off the ground. Only the fact that every one in the area threw themselves onto the nose wheel (it got really crowded) saved the aircraft CGs a can be farther back but you need biger tails. I will be interested the hear how far back you can get it before the model becomes uncontrolable.

I am definately not one of the "them and us brigade" I just like engines and will use engines until fulll size aircraft are electric powered. Hey Nige, You state that your moter battery set up doesn't weigh any more than my .32 engines and tank etc. Now tell me how much your set up will cost including enough batteries for an afternoon,s flying allowing for cooling between charges an the charger, balancer etc with a motor that will equal a good.32 (I won't ask about .40s or .60s) and how much the motor and speed controller would cost for each model. I have 10 ready to pick up and go flying.

To add to my last, I should have said Coarse medium and fine Aluminium Oxide paper, also called production paper. You can buy packs from any DIY store, They contain 3 coarse (80 grit) for heavy removal, rough shaping of blocks etc, 4 medium (120 grit) and 3 fine (180 grit) You cn go finer than tat for final finishing. Tip: sand across the grain for fast wood removal, sand with the grain for a good finish. The aluminium oxide lasts much longer than ordinary sandpaper. You can also stick it down to a sanding block with double sided cellotape. You can email me if you want. I will also talk on the phone if you want

I was not saying that electric can only be flown in calm weather. I was commenting on the club members in our club who do fly electric.

As phil says, You are learning the best way that there is, by doing. When I started I had no help and had to learn the hard way. Mind you, back in those days we started with very small simple models and built up, these days we start off with radio models. The Super 6o is quite a complex model and you are doing well. On sanding, forget the very fine ones, Use coarse and medium grit aluminium oxide paper. NEVER use it wet, that is for getting a finish on paintwork, the wet will just soak into balsa and do no good at all. Round tanks used to rotate an twist the fuel lines unless secured properly. I promise you that you will feel a wonderful sense of achievement when you get it finished.

I ran the first ever adult education classes in aeromodelling back in 1974. If one can persuade the local adult education authorities to run such a course one can make a bit of extra cash from it. More to the point and to answer Peter, There are good books out there, You can learn a lot from them, for example, "High Flying on a Low Budget" has a detailed chapter on repairing models while RCM&E used to have a book on building from plans.