alex nicol
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Everything posted by alex nicol
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Chilli Wind Built - up wing.
alex nicol replied to Stuart Quinn-Harvie 1's topic in Classic Aerobat Build Blogs
Hi Stuart, The chilli wind plan and magazine article can be downloaded from Outerzone.co.uk alternately you can order plans for both chilli breeze and chilli wind from Sarikhobbies.com I went for the Wind as I had an Irvine 53 looking for a home Good luck with whatever you decide on -
I've used zap 30 before with no issues........if you warm both bottles up in the microwave 10 - 15 seconds it's fine. The only thing is it'll go off a bit quicker so you need to work fast
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Actually that's just brought another factor to mind, the magnetic draw that solitary inanimate objects have on our aircraft. by that I mean things like Trees, Fence posts and the solitary rock in the middle of a grassy field. How many times has somebody hit one of these when it would be so much easier to miss. I know I have
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A couple of points worth noting, when learning it's not unusual for a novice pilot to complete his last turn and runway line up to early. in fact sometimes it can seem as if you need to resist the natural urge to turn by a couple of seconds to ensure proper line up. The other point is landing a model you are unsure of or haven't flown for a bit, so much extra concentration goes in to line up, keeping wings level and reducing height and speed it's easy to overlook the fact you might be a little bit short of where you need to be and perhaps not a depth of perception issue.
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Chilli Wind Built - up wing.
alex nicol replied to Stuart Quinn-Harvie 1's topic in Classic Aerobat Build Blogs
I used 1/4 birch ply full depth brace on the main spar. as the main spar is swept back the brace is 1/4 thick at the root and feathered down to nil at the edges to match the Spar sweep back. I intend to use fibre glass joiner. What a usually do is warm the resin and hardener in the microwave for about 15secs to make it really thin. When I apply the cloth and epoxy to the joint I cover it with some thick polythene and then squeegee all the excess epoxy out to the edges and remove it. This gives me a really light joint and doesn't sacrifice any strength. Leave it 24 hours and peel the polythene off and you get a finish like glass that needs no sanding. -
Chilli Wind Built - up wing.
alex nicol replied to Stuart Quinn-Harvie 1's topic in Classic Aerobat Build Blogs
I hadn't discounted a foam wing, I just didn't have a means of making one and when I looked at the cost it was quicker and cheaper for me to build one. Since then I've had a bit of a dabble with foam cutting and if this project lives up to its reputation I've got an ASP 1.80 fs looking for a home and I'm toying with doing a scaled up version for it. I'm thinking of scaling it up by about 1.4 which should take me to about 80" span. -
Chilli Wind Built - up wing.
alex nicol replied to Stuart Quinn-Harvie 1's topic in Classic Aerobat Build Blogs
From memory they're Turngy from HK........they weren't that expensive -
Hi Dave, it's one of the worst things that can happen, as without an absolute definitive reason it destroys your confidence in your radio gear. If you're absolutely sure the txt is ok, then the only real thing you can do is scrap the all the radio gear in the plane Alternately you could scrap the elevator servo and try again.........but if the fault isn't in the servo then chances are it'll happen again It's a tough one. I've had the misfortune of wrecked airframe due to what I thought was a faulty servo.......repaired the airframe, replaced Servo and then suffered a total loss good luck with whatever you decide
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Chilli Wind Built - up wing.
alex nicol replied to Stuart Quinn-Harvie 1's topic in Classic Aerobat Build Blogs
Forgive the photography, pics of my build below -
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Chilli Wind Built - up wing.
alex nicol replied to Stuart Quinn-Harvie 1's topic in Classic Aerobat Build Blogs
Hi Stuart, I currently have a chilli wind under construction, with a built up wing & also incorporated a set of electric retracts. Unfortunately its fully constructed so not much to see.. I used a full depth spar made of very hard 1/8th balsa Half slotted the spar & ribs & capped it off with 1/8th x 3/8 to form girder type section. I also added a 1/8 x 1/4 spars towards the TE. then built the whole wing & cut the ailerons out. I also decided to opt for a built up tail as opposed to the 1/4 sheet version I'll stick some pics up shortly Cheers -
Hi Don, I agree completely, however I don't think it would have taken to much effort to produce a definitive statement of some sort. My favoured weapon of choice for a number of years has been the Irvine 53.....also sadly no more
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It strikes me that there is a distinct lack of factual information around the real reasons for this shortage. You would think a representative from the manufacturer/distributor would issue a status update to their current and potential customers. Yes factories close and relocate all of the time, but it doesn't take months Yes it's possible the single factory involved may manufacture SC, ASP, Magnum etc it's also possible the factory makes these under contract for different suppliers. I don't mean to sound like the prophet of doom, but the lack of accurate information is a concern. If there is anybody connected to the above on this forum can you please issue a definative statement on future supply of these units
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If it flies it should be welcomed and responsible use encouraged.
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I can't comment on the others as I haven't used them before, I have used Slec a few times recently and have been very pleased with speed of delivery and quality of wood supplied.
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Also I'd add you'll be hard pressed to find better than the Irvine 53, tbh it's been my weapon of choice for many a year.
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I'd say, your first instinct is usually the right one
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Im completing a Bucker Jungman in Swiss Army livery. The majority of the covering is cub yellow profilm. There is some black trim on the nose. Will profile take paint and if so what type.
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PS, just noticed, the carb is on backwards, which most likely won't help either
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For what it's worth I believe the best thing to do is stop trying to fix an incorrect installation and start from scratch. Take the engine out and bench mount it, set the tank up to the correct height and try setting it up. If that works it tells you the fault is with the engine/tank installation/set up If it won't bench run, then you've got an engine issue to resolve At the moment it's as if your looking for a solution to resolve the issue which doesn't involve taking the engine out...... the trouble is, you need to take the unit out to rule out a lot of potential issues I'd also give serious consideration to re installing the engine in the correct orientation 180 degrees from current, Another option may be invert the engine Good Luck
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Boomerang didn't come back
alex nicol replied to Brian Dorricott 1's topic in All Things Model Flying
You're welcome, I meant to add, when doing the glass work, use slow curing epoxy and warm it up to just above room temp......it'll go very thin.....makes it easier to soak into the glass cloth. also when you squeegee it through the polythene it gets rid of excess epoxy and after it has dried when you peel off the polythene you'll get a very smooth glass like finish which will be almost invisible under the covering. A few years back I had the misfortune to find a fence post with my Maricardo the fuselage snapped at the wing Le and Te.....I glued the three bits back together, Glassed over the repair areas and it's still flying today -
Check the tank to make sure the clunk hasn't travelled forward and kinked the tubing. it sounds as if it may be to lean or drawing air. if you open the throttle wide and do a few choke turns can you see the fuel being drawn through the pipe? if you prime and choke it until its slobberingly rich do you get the 'bump' when you turn the prop over with the glow start on?
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Boomerang didn't come back
alex nicol replied to Brian Dorricott 1's topic in All Things Model Flying
Firstly, sympathies.....I think we've all experienced similar. I have a simple formula which has been reasonably successful. 1 ensure you recover every bit of wood no matter how small 2 carefully remove engine/tank throttle pushrod 3 peel covering back 2-3inches on the good bit of fuselage 5 carfully piece together the front end like a jigsaw ensuring it is straight ......use cyano 6 apply epoxy and glass cloth from 3 inches behind the break to as far forward as required (use a stiff polythene to cover this and squeegee out the excess epoxy......once dry this can be peeled off) 7 apply covering and off you go You'll most likely find it'll be stronger than it was pre accident. Good Luck -
Might be worth a wee look at one of the outlets that supply a plan and wood pack options, quite often you can get a magazine build log too. Alternately if you haven't already have a look at outerzone or aerofred websites as there are literally thousands of plans on there you can browse/download/purchase Good luck with whatever you decide on.
