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John Payne

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Everything posted by John Payne

  1. John Payne
    Hi Dylan. It is battery to switch to regulator to rx. That way you are cutting off power to the regulator (and rx) which will have quiescent drain ( always draining battery ) if always connected to battery. The pics tomorrow should make things clear. Cheers, John.
  2. John Payne
    Hi Dylan. I have been using just that set up in a few models for a while now and although it is a fiddle to set up, it is worth it. You need to either do what I did and get matching connectors for the regulator, usually sold as a pair, and use them to connect in to the switch harness on the rx side. Alternatively you can just hard wire it in, but I wanted to be able to swap them about if necessary. Not sure if there is a right and wrong way, but I wire them in with the female connector to the switch and the male connector to the rx. On the battery side of the switch I used the same connectors for the switch harness and lipo, 2mm plugs, obviously make sure they connect properly(!) and there you go. If you need, I can get some photos in the morning and post showing the set up in one of my models. I get several sessions out of a 2s 1000 mA lipo before I charge it with around 5 or 6 flights per session. I have 3 lipos which are used in which ever models I take (I only ever take 3 models max because of space) and charge them when they get to around 50%. I also use one in a model with an orange stabiliser in and it copes very well on it. The only issue I have found is that some of the smaller servos do not like 6V an so a 4.8V regulator is used. Hope his helps. Cheers, John.
  3. John Payne
    Glad to help. Cheers, John.
  4. John Payne
    Hi Peter, it sounds as though you are not correctly the model memory. I have just checked on my DX7 and the procedure it as follows:- hold down the Down and Select buttons and switch on, use the Increase/Decrease buttons to scroll to the memory memory you want, press down the Down and Select buttons together ( this sets the model memory chosen), switch off the transmitter. As Yakmad suggests, turn the transmitter back on to confirm the model chosen and then turn it off again. Turn on the receiver with the bind plug in place and the LED should flash, hold down the Bind button and switch on the transmitter. Wait for the receiver LED to stop flashing and go to a steady on. Switch off the receiver, then switch off the transmitter. Remove the bind plug. Switch on the transmitter and then the receiver and the radio should work. Cheers, John.
  5. John Payne
    Hi Peter. The idea is to choose the model position on the transmitter first, turn it off and then start the binding process. That way, when the transmitter is switched on it is binding to the correct model slot. Does that help? Cheers, John.
  6. John Payne
    Hi Dan, not sure I can help much but as the 6i has a servo monitor, can't this shed any light on what the controls are doing? I know that you are using ESCs but the signal output to the ESC might give you an indication of what is/is not happening and might be useful info for people to have in order to help. The only other thing that I can think of is do you have to train the ESC for zero and high throttle points? Sorry I can't add anything else. Cheers, John.
  7. John Payne
    Hi Jon, if you have a look on this forum you should find my build thread of the black magic from the plan. It may help on some of the details. The motor for this is to be a twin diesel (which still isn't finished, but I live in hope.......) so the front is a little different, but it should be largely the same. Good luck with the build. Cheers, John.
  8. John Payne
    My take on attaching part 240 is to cut a notch in the bottom of it so that it sits down on the end piece and is level with the rear spar. The rest looks OK but there will have to be some sanding done to get the correct shape at the wing tip. Cheers, John.
  9. John Payne
    Hi Fingerless, I have an MSRX and my experience is not quite the same. I have had to change the motor once over the last couple of months of learning and the local shop pointed out it is the load on the motor as it suddenly stops that does the damage. When I first had it the rotors did a LOT of sudden stopping, I am also learning in the front room, and since that motor change it has been fine ( also a lot less sudden stop syndrome!). The light did not flash to indicate the motor was on its way out, the motor didn't want to start without some help moving the blades. The only time the blue light flashes is at low battery. Cheers, John.
  10. John Payne
    Good thread to discus Erflog. For my two penn'uth (which indicates where I come from!) is that the technology will be used formthensake of it by some people where the longer time served modeller will pick and choose. The longest time served modeller will take the view that " we didn't even have dual rates when I started and I don't think it is useful". These observations are from my own club and the people there. My view is that some things will be adopted more widely and be useful additions, like the 3 axis gyros for instance, and the autonomous models, that started the discussion, will be taken on by a small enthusiastic group. There is a place for all these things and they can all be used to good effect for some people. As I saw commented above, some people will enjoy the building and some will enjoy the flying, and long may that continue. Cheers, John.
  11. John Payne
    Good to hear it all went well CS. I am sure you will get plenty of enjoyment out of the Domino. I also agree that the four stroke sounds adds a certain something. Cheers, John.
  12. John Payne
    BEB has a point, and from my memories the previous licensing didn't create any great problems. My worry would be that if all sales of models were not regulated, forcing the LHS to do some of the regulation would drive people away from them, wether new to the hobby or not. The sentiment against any regulation in the posts above shows that. Cheers, John.
  13. John Payne
    Great stuff, really enjoyed that. Cheers, John.
  14. John Payne
    That is a nice job CS, and as you have used mine as the comparative photo you should know that yours is lighter than mine by around 8 ounces as I used that Laser 75 in mine and it needed a bit of lead in the tail to balance it out. Make sure the CoG is in the right place and it will fly well. Well done. Cheers, John.
  15. John Payne
    Hi Stuey, I have one in a small model, weight saving like you, and it works fine. Cheers, John.
  16. John Payne
    No problem PB, glad to help. Hope the lobotomy goes well............ Cheers, John.
  17. John Payne
    Hi PB. The first photo shows the fuselage and camera and the velcro. The velcro is held on with hot glue on the fuse and camera. The plywood let into the foam is for a Flycam Eco which i sometimes screw onto the front. The green area is to stop any flare into the lens from the reflection off the white foam. The second shows the camera mounted on the front with the chain and split ring sited under the canopy as a back up. The third photo show the side view and the angle that the camera looks down at. You can vary it a little to get the shot you want. I go for the horizon in the top 20% portion of the image and the front of the fuselage just showing into the image. As Garbo says, seeing part of the model in the image makes for a better shot. Cheers, John. Edited By John Payne on 02/12/2012 14:44:27
  18. John Payne

    John Payne posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  19. John Payne

    John Payne posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  20. John Payne

    John Payne posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  21. John Payne
    Hi PB, I will take a couple of photos later today and post them up. Basically I have just used Velcro to hold the camera onto the front slope of the fuselage and tucked the key ring chain under the canopy for safety. It will be clear in the photos. Cheers, John.
  22. John Payne
    Hi PB. I am actually impressed by the quality of the video itself. As David says, they are fairly simple cameras and do not react like a large camera when the image changes from light to dark. On my Twinstar I have the camera set so that it points mainly towards the ground when it is in level flight and it helps a lot with this reaction time. It's just a matter of getting used to what different conditions do to the camera and how to mount the camera to suit. Cheers, John.
  23. John Payne
    And me please. Cheers John.
  24. John Payne
    Just for completeness, the bearings turned up from Simply Bearings today, so that was next day delivery. Another piece of excellent support. The clean and rebuild can now start in earnest with all parts available. Cheers, John.
  25. John Payne
    Hi guys, I thought I had better update this thread. Following the advice from Wingman I contacted Macgregor, via Hobbyplastics site on Monday. After sending photos of the engine to them they contacted Saito, confirmed the parts I needed and let me know the phone number to order them. I called on Thursday and ordered the parts and they arrived today. I think that is excellent service and would recommend them to anyone who needs Saito spares. I also thought that I had better strip the engine down to check internals and, due to castor oil grunge, I had to change the bearings. I have ordered replacements from Simply Bearings and once I have them I can clean and rebuild the engine. One or two interesting bits to the strip, but just have to clean it all and rebuild. Thanks to the Brian Winch articles on timing this should be fairly straight forward. Thanks for all the help guys, cheers, John.
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