Nigel Heather

Yes, I was a little annoyed to find that although they specify EP on the box, the kit makes absolutely no provision for it. It is only once you have got home and looked at the contents that you realise that you have to buy the electric motor mount which turns out to be a small bit of plywood which is overpriced, as is the P&P. And even then you are left to figure out how to make a battery compartment and fixtures. As I said I do have some buyers remorse, and wish I’d bought the Cambrian one.

Maybe because some time ago the original company split into two selling a near identical product range. There is Cambrian and Cambria, two different companies, very confusing I know. Cambria seem to be more ‘with it’ technology-wise as they have an active Facebook Group - this is one of the reasons I chose Cambria over Cambrian - there is much more of a buzz and near instant access to advice and guidance. I did have a little ‘buyer’s remorse’ though - my BF-109, still in the box, is to be electric powered, when I purchased, although the Cambria kit states EP requirements there is little provision in the kit - the kit was already £10 more expensive, then you have to buy the electric conversion on top (another £15) and EP is not covered at all in the plans or the instructions so you have to work out the battery compartment, ESC placement, cooling yourself. With the Cambrian you get all that in the kit so I somewhat wish I had bought the Cambrian. The main advantage that the Cambria kits claim is a re-designed wing with built-in washout, but other than that I think they are pretty much identical. Also, I bought my kit at Wings and Wheels last year, Cambria didn’t attend but also sell through a balsa and accessories company who were there. I felt a little bad going to the Cambrian stall to buy decals as Cambria don’t sell them - and it was sad to see as I passed the Cambrian stall many times that there were no customers - so perhaps that was the writing on the wall.

Thanks, all makes sense, but puzzling all the same. Not changed the motor - everything is stock. But as you say, worth trying it with some extra washers top right and top left to see if that changes. Do you know what the consequences of having too much down thrust? Cheers, Nigel

Hi, To summarise .... The stated CoG range is 80mm to 100mm from the leading edge, mine is balancing at 90mm. In terms of trust angles I have what is provided by the manufacturer - they use washers between the firewall and motor mount as follows: Looking at the motor from the front Top Right - 2 washers Top Left - 1 washer Bottom Right - 1 washer Bottom Left - 0 washers Which amounts to one washer of right thrust and one washer of down thrust. When I apply power the plane makes quite a significant climb, akin to pulling back fairly hard on the elevator stick - this isn't a gentle climb. I understand why you say that it needs more down-thrust and whilst that sounds reasonable, it does puzzle me that a model that is so common can need such adjustment - it's not like I have heard this as a common complaint. Cheers, Nigel

The Ruckus is different in that respect - it has a wooden firewall and a proper 'X' motor mount. There are washers behind the mount providing down and right thrust.

So rather embarrassingly, I have only just managed to fly it, some 14 months after buying it. I'm flying 4S with a 2800mAH battery, nose weights removed. Had one flight, and to be honest it wasn't pleasant. At low stick it was very sluggish, clearly not very aerodynamic as it slowed to a stop in a slight head wind. But at higher throttle it ballooned up quite considerably - maybe my CoG is too far back. I have a heavier battery and will try that next. Overall, just on the first flight, it is nowhere near as nice as my acrowot, but I will persist to see how it improves with a CoG change. Honestly, though, if I could have my time and money back would probably buy a Wots Wot. If you are wondering why I bought it when I have an AcroWot - it is because my AcroWot has lots of crash damage, glued together and a wobbly motor mount. The motor mount issue and the broken undercarriage mounts made me think that I'd be best getting the Ruckus as a replacement rather than buy another Acrowot.

I learned on a Yamamoto, later I had a Puppeteer, both flew really well on an OS 35FP. Cheers, Nigel

Presumably it cost you a lot less 4 years ago though. Must admit, was tempted to buy a hurricane though - will have to see what electronics I have lying around at home.

Doesn't help the OP, but just looked at the model in the store and it now seems like there is only one option and that includes the deluxe parts, decals and, most surprisingly, the ployester covering film.

The 4Max motors have replaceable shafts which must mean the shaft is easy enough to remove. Therefore, if it were me, I would remove the shaft, do the cut, and then refit it. That way, the steel dust is kept well away from the motor.

I doubt you will find any, typically if these foamy ARTFs need any side/down thrust then it is built into the fuselage or where the mount attaches. One approach is to just fit the motor and see how it performs - if it out at all it won't be by much.

Yes, exactly this. I already have four 4S 3300mAh and it would be nice to be able to reuse them. If the answer were "no, they are too light, you need 4500mAh batteries" then I would need to purchase them which is where my estimate of an extra £200 came from.

Thanks for all the help. Pretty much as I feared, I’d have to spend £200 on new batteries to fly one so I won’t bother. Cheers, Nigel

I’m interested in a WOT4 EP, there are a couple of things I would need to sort out, but the answer to one question may cool my interest. The recommended battery is a 4S 4500mAh - why such a big capacity, is that for longer flight times or is the weight needed to balance it. The reason I ask if that I have some 4S 3300mAh and it would be great if I could use those but buying a set of 4S 4500mAh would be a turn off.

You might have missed out as the offer was time limited but if you bought 9.5 or 9.5S you could get a free upgrade to 10 or Evolution. I bought 9.5S and now have Evolution. Likewise fir the OP - if you bought 10 you might be able to get a free upgrade to Evolution, maybe even the next version when it releases. They seem to let you do two versions - so I bought 9.5S, so got 10 and the Evolution as free upgrades. But they don't publicise this very well.

Out of interest how do you manage to fly pinch without a strap or a tray. When I try that I find that I am having to hold the transmitter really awkwardly, basically pushing my palms into the side of the transmitter. The reason I was thinking of a tray is that if I move to a pinch or a hybrid thumb/pinch how do I support the weight of the transmitter?

Couple of reason why I am thinking of a tray. Just moved to a different transmitter which is heavy than my old one - as I said, I support the transmitter in my hands rather than let the strap take the weight - besides neither my old nor my new transmitter balance properly on the strap - I have a balance bar for my new transmitter but rather annoyingly it obscures the power button somewhat. At my age, I've noticed I get a slight shake in my left hand when I am holding something, I have seen a neurologist who has ruled out anything serious and said that it is just a slight degeneration that is fairly common at my age. Also, been experimenting with a hybrid style on the simulator - thumb on top and forefinger on the front - I do feel that my controls are a little more controlled and precise but I wouldn't be able to do that while holding the transmitter - so I'd either need the strap or a tray support the transmitter.

I've always flown using a strap on my transmitter and thumbs on the sticks. I've heard some say that people fly 'thumbs' because they have grown up with XBox and Playstation controllers but that doesn't explain why they do it - I was thumbs on long before that type of games controllers existed. As for the strap, it is more a safety and convenience feature, I support the transmitter in my hands with the trap slightly loose. For some while I've toyed with the idea of switching from 'thumbs' to 'pinch', most of those in my helicopter community have recommended that - I appreciate that there are plenty of exceptions but it does seem that 'pinch' is the preferred method, especially in the helicopter community. So I have two questions: swapping from thumbs to pinch a sensible/realistic thing to do after so long? When I have tried it I've not felt comfortable but I know any any change feels uncomfortable at first and takes time - but how long? what are your thoughts on trays - for 'pinch' but also for 'thumbs' The reason I'm thinking this way is that I'm increasingly finding that my control inputs are clumsy, not precise, and that supporting the weight of the transmitter and operating the sticks is beginning to feel a little uncomfortable. So interesting in your thoughts on changing stick style and transmitter trays.

With my experience with MDF I found that HSS drill bits worked faster and cleaner than the brad point wood drill bits. For boring a recess for the T-Nuts I actually found spade bits worked better than Forstner bits, though neither were that good. Remember, this is with MDF - with proper wood or chipboard it might be a different story. Cheers, Nigel

Tried those - I have now replaced them with the non-flanged type that I have inserted from underneath. The flanged ones looked good in principle but need to be countersunk - and I found that countersinking MDF made for an untidy finish. Also, the countersink bit (certainly the ones I have) would tear up the vinyl sticker.

Yes this is true, though I am less bothered about tear out on the back. But I'm more concerned about tear out on entry. I have reduced this by drilling a hole in a piece of aluminium sheet and hold this down flat as I drill through it.

Are you going with MDF or Chipboard for your board. I went with MDF and wish I hadn't as the drill holes are not as tidy (because the surface tears) and it blunts drill bits much more quickly. As for using a spade or forster bit on MDF, this gets very untidy and blunts expensive bits very quickly - the tidiness is not such an issue as it will be underneath, out of site.

After posting I noticed the banner showing the free gift is the BBMF Profile - that doesn't interest me enough to subscribe but will keep an eye out for when the offer changes.

The one I bought about 30 years ago - no fancy digital controls but it works fine.

One of the things that would be the free gift hen taking out a full year subscription. Trouble is, it is difficult to tell what the current offer is, it’s not like I can look at the magazine on the shelf in WH Smiths because they are usually sealed in a plastic bag. I even asked the question on the dedicated RCME magazine forum back in October but never got a response. So without knowing what the deal is I won’t subscribe.