Bob Smitham

Posted by David Hall 9 on 21/12/2020 15:33:28: I wondered about how I might CNC cut sheets and have seen the results of many many hours of the work of others, and given up. But, just lately, I've been playing with 3D printing. The movement of the "hot end" is very similar to what I would want in a laser cutter except that it has an extra movement in the vertical direction. I have even managed to import airfoils in a PDF file to the (free) software that allows me to easily manage size and modifications. I used this to produce more than a few wing ribs at minimum (some one layer) thickness while attempting to find a good balance between strength and weight. For the most part, if I had a laser in place of the hot-end, I would be most of the way towards a viable laser cutter..... less restrictions due to bed size, a little extra work in controlling the laser output etc. I didn't go any further with it as I am probably thinking more about 3D printed plastic parts than cut balsa.   Edited By David Hall 9 on 21/12/2020 15:34:21 I'm looking down the same path David.I can manage rudimentary CAD work and 3D prints.Printed wing ribs being my initial use on a build .A few 3D printers can accept a laser head The Creality range(I'm running an Ender3) have a laser unit that simply sticks to the metal fan shroud on the hot end using magnets for £40.But it's only 500mw so I'm not sure how it would cope with thicker ply and you are of course as you pointed out limited to the size of your print bed.And like Mark and Martin I have thought about building one .I have been tempted by the budget  cutter engravers.Around £150-200 for 10-20w units with a working area of 13x7.5 inches. I have been watching a few youtube channels on them. So that means if my 3D printer is anything to go by I will end up buying one in a few months after justifying the outlay and usefulness to my self.   Edited By Bob Smitham on 24/12/2020 03:14:00

Yes please .

Thanks for the encouragement and advice, fuel proofing I will add to my list.The UBEC is a 20a so should be good on that front.The bug has bitten now my work bench is being cleared and the next build is being pondered. The struts have been sorted a length of wire was found in the shed.As for the maiden I think I'm a while off yet.Iv'e taken the plunge and contacted a local club.I couldn't have asked for a warmer welcome.My email was replied to within an hour and will be meeting the club secretary weather/ lock-downs permitting between Christmas and new year.He's bringing the club trainer and a buddy box to see where I'm at flying wise.And all this while the club are in the middle of a field move.And by coincidence he has just finished his lock down project,a Moth of all things.So things are looking good for the spring.

I'm using the BEC as simply to widen the battery options. I'm putting the FrSky SR6 in which is rated 4-10v. fine for But have a few Small 3S packs. that will fit. I do like my FPV as well. I intend eventually to put a small cam and pan n tilt set up on 9g servos that I drop in the front cockpit when required..

Hiya Darren. Iv'e not built the Spitfire.I have how ever built the Sparrow and Edge FT plans.I did use the original FT foam which I purchased from a UK shop Webbs in Frodsham, Cheshire.The original FT foam is around 5mm and water proof with a peelable paper covering.It I have never used the hobby craft foam but I have read of builds using underlay sheeting from DIY shops.So the hobby craft foam should do the trick. Give it a go, maybe build the wing and see how it folds and how strong it is.None of mine have survived many outings with my flying skills though.But great fun and cheap.

Well the recovering of one lower wing went well.But only when the glue had set on the brackets that hold the wing struts in position.Did I then realize they were reversed.A fresh exacto blade and several curses and an hour later I managed to free them with little damage to my new covering.Oh a bunch of bananas thrown in. After correcting the error with the brackets the crossed piano wire piano connecting the two struts was misaligned .I hadn't noticed on the assembly before covering that the upper wing was being pulled away from the fuel tank.Every odd length I had in my spare was just a tad to short.An order for more has been placed but with it being this time year I expect it to be in the new year until it arrives.Plenty to be doing in the mean time though so not a disaster. For the battery and BEC I have fitted the front cock pit instrument panel on a draw and hope to tuck them away .I will need to add a clasp to prevent the whole lot sliding out during flight. Being my first build what batterys for servo's and RX will be sufficient ? I was planing on using a 2S Liion pack. After tomorrow list of jobs from the wife is done I'm hoping to put the rx in and adjust linkages and servo throws. Bob

Thanks G.G ,I will post a gallery of shame of the rough bits when it's finished.

Well I did say an update by Christmas.Here it is. After my miserable attempt at the wing coverings things slow down a little.I consoled myself with flying my mini wing and for a month the Moth was well Moth balled (sorry). Covering the fuselage was a little less troublesome than those open wing ribs.But I have still seen cheap bacon with less wrinkled wrapping .The wings are going to be given a second attempt.I have recovered both upper wings.And they are an improvement on the first attempt so progress is being made in that department. I was fortunate to find a spray paint that matched the dark blue covering almost perfectly.Halfords Vauxhall Regatta Blue for the cowling and fuel tank A four stroke would have been perfect for running the muffler out under the cowling.But as a first time budget build and test mule, I want to keep this project within a reasonable budget.I did scour the tinterweb looking and measuring the available pitts style units.The size of the cowling would still have required some cutting out. So the dremmel was powered and the cowling abused. I had to add a pilot so the printer was fired up and few laser jet then cut out instruments stuck on the 3D printed panel.Again the end product was a little rough. The next build will be better hopefully with the lessons learned. I'm planning on finishing before the new year.The lower wings to be recovered is my next job.Then just a few bits and pieces BEC and RX TX set up and what have you. When she's done I will do a few soft focus shots from a distance and update. Cheers ,Bob

Chuck my name in the hat ta,

Count me in please.

That was my approach David.Leave the firmware alone.But then you buy and add another rx with F/W that's already been through several revisions since you last purchased one.For that reason I attempted to find a R9Mmini ACCST for a sub 250g wing.Rare as rocking horse stuff.I spend my days updating F/W being an ATM engineer.ATM's carry devices from several manufactures from around the world designed for all currencies.If Frsky were in that business the appalling documentation and customer support would lead to a cashless society in three months.

I've just dug out my SR6 for my latest build.Four hours of upgrading/downgrading for a match to get a bind.Frsky continue to make it difficult.I will keep an eye open for this issue when my BEC arrives and I begin testing in earnest. I have less trouble setting up flight controllers with OSD,RTH and all the other modes of flight they offer than messing with my Taranis and Frsky receivers. I haven't even began the ACCST /ACCESS woes as yet.Apparently the new generation of ACCESS RX's are flash able to run on ACCST. I wonder how many attempts with the STK and various .frk files and module updates that will take? On the positive side the LAU script for the SR6 is a welcome help ,an improvement from the last time I set up the SR6 . I understand the benefits of firmware upgrades and hardware.But only ever having owned a Taranis radio in my short flying career (3years). I need to ask are all radio systems such a PITA? Oh I do feel better getting that off my chest.😁

Oh go on then.

Posted by Andy Stephenson on 30/09/2020 12:55:18: Mick Reeves did this back in the 70s without 3D printing in his award winning Fournier. I'm intrigued how he did it now Andy.Skilled wood whittling or a molding?

Posted by leccyflyer on 30/09/2020 12:54:52: Thanks Bob - will have to give that a try. I did have a go using a Kinect game controller, but with no success. The last couple of pilots that I have printed came off the printer missing their faces -though the file was fine when it was viewed in the slicing software. The problem happened with me.The mesh from the scan is just too thin to print. You can thicken the mesh in 3DF     Or Mesh Mixer. Edited By Bob Smitham on 30/09/2020 14:10:57