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Eric Robson

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Everything posted by Eric Robson

  1. Eric Robson
    Hi Jon, you can install the leads if you have them you would have to put the servo in also and secure it as the lead joins in side the wing. As the servo mount has to be made after the lower sheeting is in place you will have to pull it back out partially to fit it to the mount increasing the chance of pulling the lead back through with it . After the wing is sheeted and the leading edge and tips are glued on the wing will be turned over many times during shaping and sanding and the weight of the servo and leads may dislodge it . When you do join the servo to the extension make sure it is the right way around and the join is secure I wrap insulating tape around to hold the plug and socket together. I do not know at this point what experience you have with R/C, have you passed the trainer stage? What type of model have you put together etc. It would help to know as some of the answers Paul and myself are giving are basic and it would help to have an insight to your experience to save over elaborating the reply. We all want you to build this model successfully and will give you the support you need. Cheers Eric.
  2. Eric Robson
    Amazing, two of us flying at the field and we have a mid air crash! need to study the starlings
  3. Eric Robson
    Jon, just another thing after sheeting the wing top take a piece of strong thread , tie it to a piece of scrap balsa and lead it from where the aileron servo goes to the centre of the wing. This will enable you to feed the servo lead and extension lead through the wing after it is fully sheeted. Tape the balsa scrap to the upper sheeting. I have pulled the other end into the top sheet in the centre which has to be cut away later on in the build.
  4. Eric Robson

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  5. Eric Robson

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  6. Eric Robson
    hi jon, I don't know if you have started on the fuselage but you need the wing completed before the fuselage as the front of the wing has to be drilled for the dowels. I have marked R2 where it needs to be cut away for the flap actuator to get into position. This is done sooner rather than later, a fine razor saw is ideal or Dremel if you have a steady hand. The photo of the aileron rib assembly is as Pauls sketch. Eric.
  7. Eric Robson

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  8. Eric Robson

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  9. Eric Robson

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  10. Eric Robson
    Posted by Andy Stephenson on 04/01/2021 22:53:54: The SLEC balsa stripper never worked for me because as soon as the cut goes wavy (and they always did) then all the other following cuts go the same way. I bought the SLEC one because my old master stripper cut wavy strips. Now I have 2 useless things.
  11. Eric Robson
    Posted by john stones 1 Moderator on 04/01/2021 22:56:23: Book, Computers for Dummies, couldn't understand a word of it. Proves your not a dummie John
  12. Eric Robson
    Well the nights will be shorter and hopefully less cold and we may have balsa back in the shops.
  13. Eric Robson
    Late last year I bought a SLEC balsa stripper . it arrived just before the balsa shortage announcement. Needless to say it is still in it's box.
  14. Eric Robson
    Hi Jonathan; The triangles on Pauls' flap are gussets to give support to the rib R2a, you will notice the gap where the actuator arm fits, without the gussets the only attachment point is a small notch on R2a . If you use the gussets (made from scrap 1/8" balsa) don't glue the front of the rib to the forward gusset as this is only a stop for the up position of the flap and also a support for the static flap spar. the aileron ribs are all marked with cut points, when cut out they form an inverted V to allow the aileron downward movement . Cut R6 flush with the fixed wing spar then make the other cut flush with the aileron spar taking care not to damage the soft balsa spars ,it is best to use a fine razor saw for this.
  15. Eric Robson
    Hi Jonathan, 1 the arrow shaped spar is glued to R7 as I explained on your thread. 2 when you are ready to sheet the wing 3 R2a should be the same height as R2 the gap is for the flap actuator which is glued on later, you can use the part as a spacer to make sure it will fit later on Don't get any glue on it 4 if you look at the picture of the flap I sent on your build thread you will see the end ribs are R2 A and R6A and they fit on the inside of the respective ribs. I brought up the issue about the aileron spars being too short on the previous page Paul and I have resolved this problem in our own ways If you follow what he has said on the subject you will not go wrong.
  16. Eric Robson
    Not to worry Ken, a lot of loco kits are made from White metal and need to be assembled with epoxy resin, I did notice the realty well built tank but the poster name did not register in my old age brain. I have to take my hat off to the skills of some of the plastic kit builders I always got too much glue on. Eric r.
  17. Eric Robson
    I think the mods and rockers are back mods fly electric and rockers fly IC . What are you if you fly both?
  18. Eric Robson
    Posted by ken anderson. on 01/01/2021 10:27:56: happy new year everyone....great skills eric and devcon….. ken anderson...ne..1..admiration dept. More solder than devcon Ken, when I took up the hobby my soldering skills were nil. come to think of it they are not much better now. Happy new year to you all.
  19. Eric Robson
    Frightening but it could be Ice of an aeroplane which would normally melt before hitting the ground . I remember a hail storm in Shropshire early one morning where the ice landing on our garden were as big as choc bars, but there was lots of them.
  20. Eric Robson
    Hi Matt, it is 0gauge, I took the hobby up when my wife's condition worsened and she needed more care so I gave up model flying. She passed away 2 year ago and I returned to flying, since then the loco's have taken a back seat.
  21. Eric Robson
    My other pastime, scratch building locos. this one is a Southern Railway M7 made from brass and nickel silver the castings and wheels are bought.
  22. Eric Robson

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  23. Eric Robson
    Hi Jonathan, I don't know if Richard has contacted you about moving the thread to the Warbirds Mustang site that Paul Johnson is building on. if so I would strongly advize you do so as I almost missed your thread as I have not been on the forum till late on and I see no one has replied to you .as they tend to follow the thread of the original builder. In answer to your question the arrow shaped spar is glued at both ends flush with with the bottom of the ribs, you may need to remove a little off the arrow end to but against the rib and not over it. care must be taken against getting any glue on the curved parts of the ribs and riblets . the rear spar is glued to the curved riblets and rib ends that form the flap, DON'T glue the ends to the fixed ribs. I hope these photo's will help.
  24. Eric Robson

    Eric Robson posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  25. Eric Robson

    Eric Robson posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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