Ken Lighten
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Everything posted by Ken Lighten
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Cheers for the info chaps, wish I'd come across this before - now, where's me snips! Edited By Ken Lighten on 20/10/2014 20:36:07
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is converting to cordless as simple as just connecting a Lipo battery to the starter via shortened cables and suitable connector, or do I need to use some other black art bits and know how?
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Cheers Danny and John, I've always liked the scheme on the one in DB's advertising/catalogue so copied it ish
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have finally finished my Tinker Major (started a build blog but.................) - has an Irvine 40 fitted and ailerons, maiden flight when the flying site opens again next month Edited By Ken Lighten on 26/09/2014 14:10:38
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Hi all, is there a model shop anywhere in the Lake District that would be worth a visit? Might be able to sneak away for a couple of hours!!
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I think the cranked wing was an 'option' on the Contender plan
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Nice looking aircraft Stu, I'm also considering the colour scheme - the next enjoyable part of the process!, I was in two minds about the Laser, but I think it's the way I'll go, I have now got the Turnigy motor and will put that in my DB Pup (probably more suited to that anyway) - hats off to Hobbyking by the way, ordered the engine on Monday, got it yesterday!! looks pretty good too (never judge the book by the cover tho as they say!)
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Saito would be nice Phil, three times the cost tho, I do already have a Laser 180 that is earmarked for another model, would that be too big/powerful? Ken
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Thanks for that Cymaz, I'll consult RCU see what's on there
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Hi, I'm thinking of fitting a Turnigy 26cc petrol engine to a YT 1.20 Spitfire, having never used a petrol engine before, I wondered what size tank to use as I believe they are a lot more frugal than a nitro. Once I know I can get all the correct petrol tank bungs etc sorted. Any thoughts on the engine would be appreciated too.
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As a footnote to the picture of the formers being assembled, I was confused by the material thicknesses quoted on the drawing for F4, 1/4 sheet for the uprights and 3/16 for the cross piece infill, if you measure the former thickness on the fuselage side view, the uprights are nearer to 3/16 so that is what I've gone with assuming a typo error on the drawing for the former uprights. Darlo, I contacted DB sports regarding the dihedral change (a previous posting covers it) and to calculate the change for the formers and braces I simply draw a line the correct length of the wing (on the back of the plan usualy), mark another line at the tip position for the change in block height at right angles, then complete the triangle root to tip and use the resulting angle at the root to alter the parts (I'm rubbish at trigonometry hence the 'non-calculation' method!) Ken
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Time to make a start! - it won't be quick tho! Side sheets cut after butt joining some sheets of 3/32 balsa to obtain the correct width and marked for the two built up frame positions (I can't help thinking that this fuselage design is a tad more complicated than it needs to be, hey, who am I to argue, but I would think it might fox the inexperienced builder a bit) the rear upper 1/4 square longerons needed to be steamed to shape to prevent building in stresses (its quite a tight curve just aft of the upper wing) The two built up frames pinned to the board, note the use of a couple of scraps of 1/4 square balsa to ensure the correct allowance for the fuselage side doublers. I have altered the angle of the upper and lower cross pieces on F5 as I am reducing the dihedral due to the fitting of ailerons to be continued! Ken
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I agree Percy, I'm doing 4 bays and 2" wide on the lower wing only Ken
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I'm at the exact same stage of the build as you Percy! Will start proper in the New Year and hopefully be able to add pics as I go, I have put my version of the changes on the plan for the inclusion of ailerons, including the dihedral change using info from DB (1" under each tip for the lower wing and 1 & 3/16" for the upper) Ken
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Yes, its the Tinker Major, plan says 25-40, I've got an Irvine .40 lined up for it, although I also have a OS 32 that is also a candidate, either should be more than adequate Ken
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Cheers for that Wolstenflyer, 2 degrees it is then (should have asked Eddie at DB myself), just ordered my wood so will get cracking with it when it arrives - I'm going with a .40 IC with mine, and bolt on wings (don't like bands) Ken
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Anyone adding ailerons to their Tinker? what would the consensus be as to the dihedral angle change? I'm reckoning about 1 - 1 1/2 degrees - but that is just my feeling (should look right), not any deep and meaningful aerodynamic reasoning!
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Signing Up Thread
Ken Lighten replied to Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator's topic in The 2014 Mass Build
Tinker Major with ailerons -
First Round Voting
Ken Lighten replied to Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator's topic in The 2014 Mass Build
1. Flea-Fli 2. Chilli Breeze 3. Pushycat 4. Dalotel 5. Dawn Flyer -
Free stuff weekend
Ken Lighten replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in All Things Model Flying
building jig will be handy - be useful for lining all that wood up in the right directions! -
Hello David, look at the wheels that Peter Rake has designed and uses are ideal for this size model (google Peter Rake wheels). I made one modification, I soldered a large (brass) washer to the inner end of the bearing tube to support the wheel a bit better that just the wood parts on their own. I think he details where to get the neoprene extrusion for the tyres in the blurb (our company IT won't allow me access to his site to confirm)
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Plan covering/protection
Ken Lighten replied to john melia 1's topic in Building from Traditional Kits and Plans
I always use really cheap pound shop style cellotape to cover where the glue joints are, nice and easy -
I've had shop owners put another label on my newly purchased kits with a price which is more 'reasonable' - am I a coward!!?
