EarlyBird
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Everything posted by EarlyBird
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So it does thanks kc. I knew I had seen it some where but having read so much on the forum I am having problems finding useful information again. Apparently it is an age thing. Does that mean you are young or I am prematurely old? Steve
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Hmm I am having trouble finding any detailed photos of how it is done. Just a min Lucas Hoffman's build springs to mind. Yes page 8 use the spinner ring and some wood spacers. Obvious!!! Considering that was Lucas's first I hope mine is at least half as good. Steve
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Odd you should say that because I copied it from Miss Sizzle, I think. This is my first cowl ever. I have mounted the motor and had come back to the forum to see how the nose ring is fixed to the front of the motor. One of my club mates recommended this to me, he built a bigger version. Steve
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Dickw Thanks that's good information. Steve
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I have shaped the light ply plate ready to build the cowl onto. Steve
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Forum weekend prize draw - winners!
EarlyBird replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in All Things Model Flying
Posted by Dave Cunnington on 10/07/2020 13:55:14: Victorian post from me Rgds DC David Do you mean Dave Cunnington? -
David What a beauty! Another one on my to do list, I think. I also went flying yesterday and two members were having a discussion regarding a new Radian that was wind milling. 'You need an esc programming card, I have one at home which I will bring next time' So having just read up on how to do this I was able to explain how to do it using the sticks. Amazingly it worked first time and he was dead chuffed. I was also pleased but this made me think are all esc programmed the same and indeed are they all made in the same factory and badged for different suppliers? But then as you say that is another story. You are welcome! Steve
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Back into the hobby after decades away
EarlyBird replied to Gina Purcell's topic in Why Not Say Hello....
A very nice introduction Gina. My first plane was a Vulcan also from the sweet shop, I must have been about five. Launched it with a rubber band between thumb and for finger it would loop nicely but with no directional control my Dad spent many a happy hour retrieving it form the house roof. Happy memories indeed. Steve -
Ok Matthew here are some photos. Photos Steve
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Obviously another electric version. Edited By EarlyBird on 12/07/2020 15:01:59
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Thanks Guys. Steve
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Posted by Piers Bowlan on 12/07/2020 10:30:40: I would say a Watt meter is pretty essential for anyone even dabbling in electric flight. How do you know what current your setup (prop/motor/ESC/battery) is drawing without one? This knowledge will pay for itself by avoiding burning out motors and ESC's. as well as finding a combination that will be reliable and efficient. They can be very cheap like this one or you can pay a lot more but essentially they do the same job. This one is much nicer! Alternatively, here but you might have to wait a while for it to arrive! Edited By Piers Bowlan on 12/07/2020 10:39:03 Although this is good advice and I do understand your reasoning. I don't have a watt meter and never had a problem but then all of my setups are either RTF or follow the recommendations for ARTF. I have witnessed what happens when a setup is over propped, smoke!. Yes if one wants to indulge in this experimental way of working or maximum efficiency is important then again yes a watt meter is essential. The problem I have with this technology is that my old brain does not understand so for me it is simple if I want to fly longer I fit a higher capacity battery. But considering my maximum concentration span is six min long flight times are not an issue for me. It is time for me to go flying. Steve
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David 17 min is excellent on a 1600mah battery. Yes a 2900 will last 1.8125 times as long if you fly exactly the same and conditions are the same that gives 30 min. But as the bigger battery is heavier the flight time will be reduced slightly. The way I work is to aim for a 3.8v/cell target link my timer to the throttle use, set the timer down at 5 min then fly. Check the voltages after and adjust the timer accordingly. Fly again test adjust timer fly again..... a reiterative process that works for me. For me the flight time I achieve is not important I focus on the post flight battery cell voltages thereby extending the life of my batteries, I hope. This advice came from an experienced pilot who showed me his four year old batteries with no swelling and no loss of power. He also takes his batteries home and puts them on storage charge never leaves them fully charged. Following this advice my batteries are two years old have had hundreds of flights and are still good. Except for one that was damaged when I destroyed my first Riot. With regard to the number of batteries needed. I was told three was the minimum, one in the plane one cooling down after flying and one on charge. So I bought four to make sure, but that's me being over cautious again. If you are slope soaring and some distance from your car and charger then you need as many as the number of flights you intend to do. On that basis I bought eight. I had not allowed for flight times being extended as in the right conditions the motor will not be used all of the time. How you set the brake could be different mine is that model in the link. I searched for 'Volantex Phoenix 2000 esc brake'. Hope this all helps. Steve
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How to set the brake Another one with a better explanation of the beeps. Steve
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This is how to brake. How to set brake on. He does it a 5 min. Looks easy. Steve
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Well done Dave I am looking forward to your braking thread as it is on my list of what I need to do. Steve
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I was introduced to model flying when I was at school in the early 60s as part of the youth club. I started with a KK glider which flew am I assume now not very well but then at the age of 12 how would I know. My mates and me soon progressed to control line quickly learning how to make them indestructible. Simple really loads of epoxy and ply then fit a big engine, AM25 in my case second hand of course. Second time was in the early 90s my two sons showed interest we built a couple of planes bought RC equipment and my eldest who was 9 at the time flew for a total of seconds. So this is the third time and it looks like luck is on my side. Joined the local club two years ago met a fabulous instructor and passed my A after six months. I destroyed one Riot in the process of learning followed by another one six months later. Wanting to build again I tried a couple of DW hobby kits recently and found you guys while searching for help due to the abysmal instructions. Realising that there are a lot of plan builders here I decided to give it a go with the help of a Sarik plan pack, it was either that or buy a fret saw. I chose a Ballerina simply because Peter Miller designs, builds and flies his models I know he is not the only one to do this but I suspect some kits and ARTFs have never been built and test flown by the manufacturers. Hey we are modelers work out how to fix it. No problem. What is next? I have bought my first IC a Saito FG21 and a VQ Giant Stick to put it in. also a Phoenix 2000 as I have always been attracted to silent flight. then.... Fournier RF4 and .. Bigger house workshop and van. OMG I am becoming obsessed. Thanks guys. For all the fun I have had over the last two years and hopefully for many more to come. Steve
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David It looks like Wireless-Madness are going to continue dishing out bad advice and defending themselves by accusing us of being over cautious. I wonder if they will sell the battery to someone else and if you are not the first to be sold it. Judging by the high voltage readings on the two cells it could have been charged by someone who did not know what they were doing. When I started and knew nothing I received a new 5000mah 3s lipo with exactly the same issue in that it would not charge. As you have done I checked the cell voltages and one was down to 1.5 volts. I contacted the supplier received an apology and a store credit. As for the lipo they told me do not send it back but dispose of it myself. I buy all of my lipos and much more from them simply because in my mind their response to my problem was excellent. Anyway well done and I for one can stop worrying about you burning your house down by listening to all the over cautious advice. Overlander are here. Lipo 2900 Steve Edited By EarlyBird on 10/07/2020 17:01:37 Edited By EarlyBird on 10/07/2020 17:05:38 Edited By EarlyBird on 10/07/2020 17:06:52
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Forum weekend prize draw - winners!
EarlyBird replied to David Ashby - Moderator's topic in All Things Model Flying
Thanks guys! I was feeling a bit down and you all cheered me up with your humour . Steve Edited By EarlyBird on 10/07/2020 13:25:11 -
David For me that is very bad advice from Adam at Wireless-Madness because all the readings indicate it is a faulty battery and therefore dangerous to use. I would follow the advice given by Nigel R. What has Adam gained by his bad advice? Saved having to refund you? Totally compromised Wireless-Madness's good name?
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As a novice the dangers of lipo batteries were emphasised to me and the advice given was :- Always balance charge. Check cell voltages before and after every flight. Remove from the plane and allow to cool before balance charging. Do not go below 3.8 volts per cell (3.8 is my safe target). Return to storage charge once finished flying for the day. Obviously having been made aware of the danger I complied with my instructor's and manufacturer's advice. I am stunned to learn that lipos are used in consumer electronics and therefore it is easy to assume that in our situation they must be completely safe. I think not! I will continue as I have always done which to me is the safest way. I now know that when the balance phase takes a long time it is an indication that the internal resistance of cells in the pack is increasing. I have observed that there is also a loss of power which can result in the loss of the model. When the balance charge time increase I buy a new lipo before I am forced to repair or buy a new model.
