Edgeflyer
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Everything posted by Edgeflyer
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Garway Hill test flight underside topside Lemon rx with 6 axis stabilisation installed on the removable hatch.
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The Bixler is finally finished and test flown today. I had to add 3.5 oz of lead in the nose to get the cg on the aileron servo wires. It flew beautifully in a 20mph wind at my local slope site. I didn't use the motor except to test it. The model is very stable, helped by the Lemon 7 plus stab rx.
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The 2018 Transmitter Survey!
Edgeflyer replied to Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator's topic in Model Flying Polls
Graupner.. There's a reason why the Germans love them. 4000m range, proper telemetry without addon modules. Voice alerts, wireless trainer all standard. I've had JR, Hitec, Spektrum, Fleet, never Futaba, Graupner is my favourite. -
Having acquired a very tired Wots Wot ARTF with ASP 80, I am busily refurbishing it. Repairing balsa areas is no problem and I have to rebuild the nose which has become fuel soaked, this falling to bits. The worst problem is getting off the old Chinese thick film covering. The white areas come off cleanly, but for some reason the yellow film has deteriorated so that a transparent clear film comes off, leaving areas of yellow pigment/adhesive. If heated it just melts into the balsa. Sanding works but is time consuming and leaves the balsa with ingrained yellow stains. Is there a solvent that will quickly remove the yellow residues or any other ideas? It seems strange that the ARTF used 2 different qualities of film.
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I want to make my own wing bags for storing and transporting. Preferably waterproof quilted type. Does anyone have experience of suitable reasonably priced material please? My wings are around 5 to 6 feet with the occasional 2m hihg aspect glider wing. I am happy to use gf tape for seams.
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Having stripped off the old tissue covering and rebuilt wing tips I used pale yellow Dylan on parachute silk for the main covering, doped on. With hindsight I should have used heat sensitive glue on the undercambered side as shrinking kept pulling this away. Coloured decor is red dyed silk. Darker band is by adding red oil paint to dope, then doping silk onto glass sheet, then slicing a strip with scalpel and straight edge, before applying to surface with more dope. Patient work but so much more satisfying than plastic alternatives and it's light and translucent. Fuselage treated likewise.
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Good tip about dressmaker glue. Ordered from amazon, about half price of "Covergrip". I have used pva in the past it is only moderately heat sensitive compared with specialist product. Thinned contact adhesive also works to a degree but Orastick is better for plastic film overlaps. It's a little too grippy for framework prep.
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Carbon rods stiffen fuse very well for virtually no weight penalty. Glass 0.5oz p sq m. With pu floor varnish as resin medium, the glass is not inflexible and gives with foam. Weight gain pretty minimal but I didn't weigh the old bixler before starting, stupidly. I watched clubmate bixlers flying as supplied they seem too light for training as severely wind affected. I think the stiffer heavier mod will help, but time will tell. I will be fitting a 3 axis stab rx with training setup for grandson and we'll be flying from slopes so need strength.
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I've had some success colouring silk before covering using dylon. I also found you can add small amounts of artists oil paint to colour dope. Experiment with small quantities first.
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Solartex is great and easy to use especially good round complex curves where it takes a lot of pulling and shrinking to shape. However I think it still looks plastic unless spray painted. Silk and dope is the way to go, cheaper than oratex and in my op, the easiest of all to apply and finish if you are patient. Can't find silk? Search for lightweight dress lining for synthetic (polyester) or real sllk. Polyester will heat shrink too, to an extent. For tricky bits, overlaps and edges can be sande smooth after drying and dooing. Difficult to get under 100 g per Sq m. For the best, get Etaki Silk from Freeflightsupplies.co.uk. Only 3o g and doping doesn't add much if you are careful. One coat to apply and shrink. Another to fill, then pu satin varnish to fuel proof. Cellulose paste (wallpaper paste ) mixed thin for allocation also works well.
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Fibre glass covered wings. Next covering with heatshrink film. Horrible stuff to use the lightweight film wrinkles easily and doesn't give a second chance. Top surfaces finished. The result is much stiffer than the original. I forgot to weigh the wings before starting. They still feel very light and I think the increased strength will help when my grandson flies it. Hopefully the horrible colours will help orientation. Next job to colour the fuse and refit radio.
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