payneib

I know that Eze Dope is definitely petrol proof, but I use cellulose paints on petrol models anyway - so no need to fuel proof, as it already is. I've not personally tested it against glow fuel, and I'm personally skeptical of any water based, single pack product being properly glow proof.

Search for "Habotai polyester". If it costs about £2-£3 a metre, it's the right stuff. If it costs £20-£40 a metre, it's actually Habotai silk which is even better, but you specifically asked about nylon/polyester. This stuff definitely works, I use it all the time. I do find, the lighter the colour, the better it takes dope for sticking down, but the more dope it needs for sealing. I generally use "Eze Dope" on plain white fabric, and then paint it, but the colours are all good too. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124680120921?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=PI2ivOThShy&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=l-v_dAijTxK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

That's the same complaint leveled at the BMFA mag - "We don't like what's in it" - but it's entirely reader submitted. They print what people send in to print.

I've only got two, and I bought those second/third/more hand.

That should sort out the bike pinching toe rags in certain areas of the city.

If I go glow, it'll have to be ASP from AliExpress. There's not many matched pairs of second hand engines floating around, and there's no chance I'll throw OS/Saito money at a twin.

Having not a seen a plan yet, this is entirely quess work, but I'd envisage a pair of NIMH ignition packs, and a pair of lipo Rx batteries sitting in the nose, as well as servos and other gubbins being as far forward as possible. Potentially two mini servos in the tail for the rudders (I've done a mechanical twin tail linkage before and I'm certain individual servos is better), probably with a gyro on just the rudder channel. A simple castoring tail wheel and basic 90° retracts. I've got plenty of time to work this out - this winter is reserved for servicing other airframes.

I wonder how much a gallon of epoxy fuel proofer weighs?

Where did I see the videos of the 110s? I can't find them now. There's three or four threads about these floating around. 😂

The Stingers should be good: I run an NGH9cc in place of a 40 2s/50 4s in my 1/6 Pup and it's absolutely perfect. I reckon the 9cc would be the better power match, but the 10cc has the walbro (style, at least, probably a copy) carb, which should make tuning and matching on the twin easier. My only worry with glow is fuel proofing the paint.

Something along these lines will do for me: plenty of orange and yellow to mark it out against the usually drab, grey Yorkshire sky, and I love doing the multicoloured motling effects down the sides (I either dry brush and sponge stiple, or use angled rattle cans for the over spray, depending on how the mood takes me). I won't be going scale mad, I just want something that fly's. I'll probably have a stab at the brown paper covering, which from all reports is miles lighter than glass. I put far too much in to my Galaxy Hurricane and it still hasn't flown yet. The only real question is whether I do this first, or a 1/4 scale WW1 job, which I already have power for?!

Good news! The silly little car passed it's silly little MOT with no further work required, so definitely put me down for a 110 please @RICHARD WILLS

Both the exact reasons I prefer IC. Not only do I have to spend all Friday night after work charging batteries to fly on Saturday, if I don't fly that weekend, my flying sessions are so rare I have to spend the evenings of the whole next week discharging the things. My ignition and radio batteries (or glow driver, depending), are ready in 20 minutes, and I don't care if I have to bin a £7 2s lipo. And I just enjoy engines. I like tuning them, I like the aeroplane noises, I like taking them apart and replacing bits of them, I like hand proping them. When/if toy aeroplane engines are entirely gone, I'll probably do project motorcycles or something with steam instead.

Wonder what that does for the range of your Tx. 🤔😉

Now would be a great time for a long lost, incredibly rich relative to snuff it and leave me everything in the will. One of these in a what, 3rd scale, WW1 project? Lovely........

Evolution 15cc Petrol, seen here hauling my massively overweight Acrowot round the sky. It's one of the old ones, with a "glow style" non-pumped carb, and she's been an utter pig to get right. She starts easy, you think it's running well, good access to "glow style" HS needle tuning, until you hit max chat in the air, and nothing happens. It just doesn't go fast. Semi regular dead sticks. Mostly tracked down to a "vibrating plunger thingy" that sits in the carb sandwich and vibrates between two plastic membranes - it sticks. Most two strokes I can tune by ear, four strokes I need a tacho for, but once theyre set, they're set (glows usually need a tweak as the weather changes). I have to tacho this engine before every flight because running perfectly, and no power in the air sound exactly the same, and it's only a 250rpm difference between the two conditions.

Just make sure you don't hand launch the transmitter!

I'd definitely be going with a pair of Stinger 10s. What are the retract options?

There's no vets bills, if you've no pets.

Some I'm proud of: My Pup with it's big sister at Shuttleworth. My Galaxy Models Merlin, photographed at a club event day, the picture ended up as the main image on the shop website. My Pup on its maiden - taken with the club chairman's proper Gucci twitching camera, there were several shots where she didn't look at all like a scale model and just the real thing. This is my favourite. The day I passed my "B" test with my original "Piggy Airforce" Acrowot and my eldest boy watching.

I'm just glad we don't have to rely on them for health care.

Carole Nash (for motorcycles), is the only insurance company I've ever renewed with instead of moving on, and I'm on for my, I think 5th, year with them. No changes to the policy, no changes to the bike, they've upped the compulsory excess by £100, put the price up by £20, and it's still £15 cheaper than any other cover elsewhere. I've been looking at possible new cars for after Christmas, and I did find out that Compare the Market is consistently £150 more expensive on every quote than Go Compare. Insurance companies are absolutely taking the proverbial and no one seems to have an answer as to why.

Been playing with my little OS10 and OS15 today. After four hours or perseverance, I'm just about getting a hand start out of them, within reasonable time limits. It seems like the difference between "not quite primed enough" and "flooded engine, hydro locked cylinder, soping glow plug" is approximately half a wisp of fuel vapor. I need to get the (very old) 19 mounted to something next.

Not really any flying today. The weather would have been fine for Big Acrowoting, but on getting the fuse out of the car, I noticed the original damage from someone else's scrap bin has shaken itself back in to existence. It's getting stood down this winter for refurbishment anyway, I was just hoping to start after Christmas. Oh well, time to strip it. Plenty of engine running on the little OS10 and 15 CL planes, but it's too windy. Chanced a maiden on the new "trainer" but the combination of too long lines, and a gusty lump of wind took my line tension away and I couldn't pull out of a dive in the upwind position. Good resilience test for when the kids get hold of it though - nosed straight in and only broke the prop. 853563687_PXL_20241005_125131455_TS3.mp4

Brilliant. £250 is certainly good value, and not a massive amount of money...........any of the other 11 months of the year. 😂 If there was a guarantee of another kit run, I'd not worry, and pick one up in spring to stash for later. But if they might not come back for the foreseeable, I'd like one if I can.