Kevin Wilson

Tony, you may also find the lack of comment may be due to your use of Depron. It is certainly a material that I do not use and can therefore make no useful comment on. I do however watch with interest and awe at the fine craft that you fashion from foam. It must feel a lonely place being so far in front of the mainstream.

Identify the wires that go to the outside conections of the pot and swap them. Either at the pcb connection or on the pot. Whichever you are most comfortable with.

Only used them a couple of times. Excellent service

Glad it worked. I ca never remember if the first one is the stick or the channel. I find my Taranis so much more logical because it is all inputs and outputs. Sometimes simpler isn't easier ☺

Posted by Martin Harris on 05/05/2017 10:32:34: Many years ago, my wife said to me, "why do you want two models?" Explain that models are a lot like shoes. Best to talk in a language they understand.

I have done this with a umx model. In the adjust list find option 6 'mix 1' and set Rudd 》Aile. ACT Rate L +100% R +100% SW MIX. Trim INH This wil make rudder stick and aileron stick have the same function when you put Mix switch on top right shoulder of tranny to position 1 (forward). If I have misinterpreted your words you may try Aile > Rudd but I am pretty sure it is the top one you are after. Regards, Kevin Edited By Kevin Wilson on 04/05/2017 23:38:55

Ah! they look familiar. Mine are the same steel section. I expect I am seeing the wing tips flexing beyond the spar as well as the joiner flexing. Although I think my joiner is black GRP not carbon fibre. This is usually due to panic recovery from my inept inverted flying practice I still cannot figure why you are pulling the tubes noba. Are you replacing them with something more exotic?

I cannot say definitively for the Phoenix 1600. But my P2k certainly looks like the aluminium box sections are moulded in. I think they would be very difficult to remove without causing damage. They are such a structural element I am puzzled why you would want to remove them. I have pulled some pretty outrageous high G panic manoeuvres and not bent the aluminium boxes despite the wings flexing dramatically. I doubt if it is a damage repair.

Perhaps he thinks there are more affluent collectors in Germany that would be willing to pay a premium for a rare item. Interesting postscript to his other items. There are sufficient caveats and references to regulations that would put me off dealing with this chap. Not a lot of trust going on there. Perhaps he has got stung before.

I seems from the flow of this thread that you are stuck Cuban. Almost all waste sites are outsourced so have severe restrictions or penalties on legitimately disposing of waste even for the housholder. It is unlikely that you will get the council to cange their policy that causes flytipping. Therefore it looks like your only option is to have a secure bounday fence to push (as far as possible) the flytipping onto the public highway, where the council are forced to take responsibility. I dont agree with that as an option but it does seem the only way.

The eflight AS3extra gets good comments at my indoor hall, but you need good thumbs as they are quite delicate Otherwise the UMX T28 Trojan is a perennial favourite. These work well in a full basketball court.

I have used UHU POR, polyurethane (gorilla) and epoxy for carbon spars. All worked but the Gorilla was easy and fairly clean. I glued the slot, dropped the spar in, scrapped off the excess and topped it with a line of masking tape to stop the glue foaming everywhere. Epoxy always feels a bit heavy, but probably just my perception as I haven't weighed any of them.

Thanks Mark that's a neat way of doing it. I like your depth stop idea, especially the ply backbone. Percy could even use that idea on his permagrit tool.

Piercing saw and a handful of different tpi blades for me. I find the big bow of a fretsaw unwieldy and unnecessary. And coping saws have too big a kerf. Having said that, I have and use all 3, but the piercing saw is what stays on my bench.

Also don't forget that as soon as you are rolled over the rudder is pushing the nose down. Something that I quickly learnt in the flat turn world of indoor flying. Try turning on aileron and not worry too much about the bank. After all the full size do not flat turn and they go up quite nicely. I was told the secret with gliding was do everything gently. Each deflection of control surface costs altitude.Edited By Kevin Wilson on 01/08/2016 22:13:01

Bruce a flat turn is initiated with rudder and the roll countered by opposite aileron. But I recently had a few flights in a full size glider and the pilot turned on aileron and elevator. He only used rudder to keep the glider clean ie pointing the right way. I commented on the angle of bank and he was not perturbed, stating there was still plenty of wing and lift. I couldn't disagree as he was making a fair ascent. I was surprised just how much he yanked it round. We need some glider experts to help us out here. I enjoy my P2k enormously.

I expect the exchange rate will 'blip' the other way once the financial guys have milked this move. After all its not as if anything has actually happened yet and they only make money when the rates are moving

"I see that DB is commentating again" That reminds me, I must take my ear plugs.

Or just buy silicon wire to the rating of your intended current draw. I know that will be a bit over being a three phase motor, but here will be a bit of volt drop and extra copper never hurts in that regard.

Sorry for the tardy response Stephen. I could not identify the subject of your photo. However I am glad you have sorted the problem. Regarding your motor overspeed and temeperature problem, could this be the timing set in the esc? whatever you, you have found a solution and I will be interested to see what result you get from your twin motor setup. It should move along nicely   Edited By Kevin Wilson on 06/06/2016 07:40:05

Stephen, have you tried an opto isolator on one or both of the ESC signal leads? These should stop any interaction between the two. Also I can see a possible interaction if the motor leads to the 2 motors are not kept seperate. Although in your model this should not be likely.

And a thank you from me. The above has explained the demise of my much abused EasyStar. An unrecoverable spin. (I would have said spiral dive as it wasnt very flat). With full opposite rudder and full up. This has puzzled me for ages as I had never felt that out of control before, well not without knowing it was my dumb thumbs

Posted by Andy G. on 31/05/2016 17:50:37: .. I would guess it's the same with the council tip, you turn up, dump it and it instantly becomes the property of the council ( or site operator) who can then do what he sees fit with it.. Funny, but from my experience it appears anything deposited at my local tip instantly becomes the property of the 'workers', but ONLY if it is worth anything. Otherwise you can unload your own rubbish. I dont live a million miles from Mike, so I expect the £2 he paid for his dumped pushbikes went back to the local council (the new beneficial owners).... but then again, perhaps NOT!

I find it interesting how many references in this thread to minority interests. Aeromodeling as a hobby is a minority interest. And is made up of lots of even more minority interests. Is it just the perception of 'what doesn't interest me is a minority interest'. I dont fly FPV, Slope, Turbines, IC, Freeflight, DS, Rotorcraft, CL, >20kg etc which one is the minority interest? Ultimately as a group of like minded minority interests we must pull together to present (at least outwardly) a cohesive whole. I'm Ready, Aim, FIRE!

Yes, kite flying isn't bamboo and brown paper anymore. I went to the Margate Kite festival a few years back and watched a guy flying three 2-line kites one in each hand and one on his hips. It wasn't so much the remarkable skill of controlling each kite, which initself was pretty impressive, it was more the mental agility of flying three independant but cordinated routines.