Jump to content

Daniel Cardona

Members
  • Posts

    461
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Daniel Cardona

  1. can i add this as a suggestion for a next plan piper Tomahawk just thinking of something different
  2. can i suggest the piper tomahawk. i would like to see some civilian aircraft and the one's that are not so common in the fields.....well at least in our airfields
  3. Posted by stuey on 20/10/2013 16:34:50: The fuselage is wider, otherwise about the same. I think you could move the firewall on the kit builds. You wouldnt happen to be related to a Darren Bloomfield by chance? yes you can move the firewall back to about 1inch on the kit build if i'm write. i didn't done that on mine and i was worried that the model will come very nose heavy with the laser up front. to my surprise i was wrong. i balanced perfectly and its total weight is 6lbs spot on. covered with tissue and dope.
  4. Posted by Robert Welford on 05/07/2012 12:52:01: here's mine with a laser 80,It really a tight squeeze but i think in the ARF version will fit good too regards daniel Has anyone worked out a good way of installing a Laser 70/80 in an Acro Wot ARTF? It appears that the cowl is only 125mm long and a 6mm (ideally 10mm overlap) is required.The Laser 80 is 127mm from prop driver to carburettor. The instructions state a distance of 120mm from thrust wedge to prop driver. Removing some of the thickness of the wedge will help, but the engine will still be too long. The carb and silencer cold be recessed into the firewall? Possibly use a false firewall installed to get the engine back further? Any ideas appreciated. Robert. Edited By Robert Welford on 05/07/2012 12:55:53
  5. Posted by Martin McIntosh on 07/10/2013 14:04:37: Please transfer to my build blog as the answers are already on there. Martin where is the build blog? sorry couldn't find it, but i saw your photo album, any more details of your retract units that you bought would be great regards Daniel
  6. Posted by Craig Ward on 06/10/2013 20:13:04: I always thought that a Mustang needed 85 degree retracts due to the wing dihedral. So i but is it the case for tony p-51 ?
  7. regarding retracts for this model, i think I'm missing something too. what are the retract angle of the main retracts? 90 deg or 85? regards Daniel
  8. i agree with peter that your building skills are very clean, i mean the bare wood looks very very spotless. keep up the work! if you sad that you are not a pro, then i'm really hopless regards Daniel
  9. Hi Tim what a beautiful subject you chose! I hope this one ends like the clean sweep,...a bigger version!...maybe for a .70 four stroke and electric Who want's to vote?! Regards Daniel
  10. Posted by 2W on 22/08/2013 20:18:05: There must be a number of readers of RCM&E down under, so I am surprised that there isn't a recprocal arrangement for cut parts with a somebody like Manzunolaser.com to avoid the huge shiping costs from the UK. For me, the best would be if RBCKits would cut this kit. There shipping costs are more reasonable and by far a LOT less expensive to ship to malta. I don't know why the shipping cost from uk are so expensive. Germany and France have the best shipping costs to Europe
  11. Posted by kc on 03/07/2013 11:12:07: Of course I knew it was not Peter's fault but I wanted Gary to know that the rest of us ( well me at least! ) were disappointed! Peter, what do you think about a low wing version with just the wing lowered a bit and an open cockpit? I now have the magazine and it shows the weight to be about 3.5 pounds, so what does Gary think about 350 or 400 watt power? The rule of thumb 100 watts per pound for aerobatic models seems to work OK . I put 300 watts on a 2 pound model ( 150 watts per pound ) and it was ballistic and too much for even a Mini Frantic so I reckon 100 watts per pound is fine for 'normal' flying. ( I consider ' normal' to be smooth aerobatics and moderate vertical performance but I realise other people may want more dramatic performance ) i was thinking doing large ailerons ,elevator and rudder like fun fly style. it will remind me the ripmax DARE-U. i was thinking the same design, but the wing must be a bit thicker as the DARE-U type
  12. Posted by Craig Ward on 27/05/2013 01:28:54: Heh, where are the photos of her all painted up? Now Tony has to design a 60" Me 109E! Agree! after the ME109 I Would like to see a yak3
  13. If it's going to be a YAK so be it, but i prefer the yak 18 pm regards Daniel Edited By Daniel Cardona on 07/04/2013 20:16:29 Edited By Daniel Cardona on 07/04/2013 20:16:54
  14. For a quick Design and for a .32 engine how about a GRANFIELD A-1. not such a common model i bet it would be great for pattern style aerobatics regards Daniel
  15. i never tried the crutch method before but it seems is the most user friendly method to build a straight fuselage with no problems. but somehow it's not so common in plans these days. regards Daniel
  16. Hello Doctor Thanks for the advice, i reinforced the liteply bulkead with birchply, basically is a sandwich of birchply, liteply and birch ply again. and attached with slow drying epoxy. the u/c mounting plate was good quality ply so i left that as it is, but i reinforced it with fibre glass cloth on the inside as suggested by chriss foss in his updates that came with the instructions. so far looks good, we will see at the maiden. fingerscrossed   regards Daniel Edited By Daniel Cardona on 12/03/2013 21:29:48
  17. yep, in fact nobody answered me so i opened another thread for my questions
  18. you can also take a look at my album, you will find loads of photos that i took when i build mine. i used a laser 100 on mine and it weights 14lbs turning a 16x4 prop. it fly's very scale for sure. regards Daniel
×
×
  • Create New...